The Rubi Q Build
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I have read a lot today as well. I think the valve cover baffle thing matters. I read that GM may have actually changed the valve cover design adding a baffle without acknowledging an issue. I also think I would look into the suction from the oil fil port. I am not getting that and I wonder if it is normal. I question your pcv valve or orifice.
I would definitely question the valve cover baffling. I remember having to swap mine on a new build 5 or 6 years ago due to a similar issue with the catch can getting way to much residue. They're almost impossible to get completely cleaned out where they are permanently mounted to the inside of the valve cover.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
Well shoot. I took a peek in the throttle body tonight. After a bit of heart failure I removed the intake for cleaning. 
Honestly think I just forgot to clean it. I distinctly remember cleaning an intake not long ago, but I think it was on the LQ9 I built. I’m just surprised I didn’t notice anything when I put the new gaskets in place. The catch can hose going to the top of the intake was clean and dry. I couldn’t get any oil out of it. I do have oil residue in each intake valve runner. One valve that is closed is holding a small puddle of oil. Mind blowing how dumb this was.
I’ll take the driver side valve cover off tomorrow and drill the holes and clean it out.
Anyways I’m ready to loom the wiring so this will make the top end much easier to do.
Honestly think I just forgot to clean it. I distinctly remember cleaning an intake not long ago, but I think it was on the LQ9 I built. I’m just surprised I didn’t notice anything when I put the new gaskets in place. The catch can hose going to the top of the intake was clean and dry. I couldn’t get any oil out of it. I do have oil residue in each intake valve runner. One valve that is closed is holding a small puddle of oil. Mind blowing how dumb this was.
I’ll take the driver side valve cover off tomorrow and drill the holes and clean it out.
Anyways I’m ready to loom the wiring so this will make the top end much easier to do.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
I’m a bit behind on updating the progress. So back to my PCV issue. I made some adjustments and the jury is still out on whether the fix is good. Below is the driver side valve cover. The small, elongated slots on the baffle are not enough to drain all the oil out so it ends up getting sucked into the PCV and into the intake manifold.
Below, you can see the extra holes I drilled out. Size and placement is a bit of a guess.
With the intake off it made finishing the wire loom easier. Speaking of the intake, I spent several days pressure washing it out and getting it cleaned up. Same with the valve cover. I was surprised how much junk was packed inside the baffle.
I rerouted my PCV lines. Now they start in the intake tube with a port I built in the elbow. They go in to the pass side valve cover. Then out the driver side cover, to the catch can and then from the can to the top of the intake manifold. With the oil fill tube cap off there is now almost no noticeable vacuum when I put my hand over the tube. I like this much better.
With the PCV done for now, it was time to move on to the tachometer issue. With the old Novak tach emulator installed the RPM gauge would sit at 1000 and then peg to 6000 on a hard pull, then stick there. I called Novak for guidance. Jeff told me those old ones had issues and he was going to send me a new updated one. I explained to him the one I had had been sitting on my shelf for over ten years. He didn’t care and sent me the new one free of charge! HUGE shout out to Novak!
This new one allows you to dial the output signal in for an exact readout. Livy reved the engine to 2000 based on what the scan tool said then I dialed in the emulator until the gauge also said 2000. Done.
I should note that on this particular engine the ECM Tach Resolution needs to be set to “7 high” and “8 low” in the tune. Otherwise the output will be outside the scope of the potentiometer in the emulator and you won’t be able to dial it in all the way correct. Mine was not set that way on the first try and I had to have my tuner make that adjustment for me.
With the new emulator installed I was able to wrap up the wire loom install. The main line across the firewall got a light wrap of tape and then loomed in place. You will also see in this pic that my new A/C accumulator has a home with a couple new hoses built. The firewall to accumulator hose was tool long for my liking so it is getting redone now.
I was curious to know how accurate my Chinese oil pan and dip stick was and since we hit the 500 mile mark it was time to drop the brake in oil and put in fresh oil. I put in exactly 6 quarts, ran it awhile and shut it down over night. This is where it showed on the stick. The F body pans are rated at 5.5 quarts. So I would say it pretty accurate. I will probably continue using all 6 quarts.
Below, you can see the extra holes I drilled out. Size and placement is a bit of a guess.
With the intake off it made finishing the wire loom easier. Speaking of the intake, I spent several days pressure washing it out and getting it cleaned up. Same with the valve cover. I was surprised how much junk was packed inside the baffle.
I rerouted my PCV lines. Now they start in the intake tube with a port I built in the elbow. They go in to the pass side valve cover. Then out the driver side cover, to the catch can and then from the can to the top of the intake manifold. With the oil fill tube cap off there is now almost no noticeable vacuum when I put my hand over the tube. I like this much better.
With the PCV done for now, it was time to move on to the tachometer issue. With the old Novak tach emulator installed the RPM gauge would sit at 1000 and then peg to 6000 on a hard pull, then stick there. I called Novak for guidance. Jeff told me those old ones had issues and he was going to send me a new updated one. I explained to him the one I had had been sitting on my shelf for over ten years. He didn’t care and sent me the new one free of charge! HUGE shout out to Novak!
This new one allows you to dial the output signal in for an exact readout. Livy reved the engine to 2000 based on what the scan tool said then I dialed in the emulator until the gauge also said 2000. Done.
I should note that on this particular engine the ECM Tach Resolution needs to be set to “7 high” and “8 low” in the tune. Otherwise the output will be outside the scope of the potentiometer in the emulator and you won’t be able to dial it in all the way correct. Mine was not set that way on the first try and I had to have my tuner make that adjustment for me.
With the new emulator installed I was able to wrap up the wire loom install. The main line across the firewall got a light wrap of tape and then loomed in place. You will also see in this pic that my new A/C accumulator has a home with a couple new hoses built. The firewall to accumulator hose was tool long for my liking so it is getting redone now.
I was curious to know how accurate my Chinese oil pan and dip stick was and since we hit the 500 mile mark it was time to drop the brake in oil and put in fresh oil. I put in exactly 6 quarts, ran it awhile and shut it down over night. This is where it showed on the stick. The F body pans are rated at 5.5 quarts. So I would say it pretty accurate. I will probably continue using all 6 quarts.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
I went ahead and installed the two heater hoses yesterday as well. The intake manifold had a port ready for the vacuum line to the HVAC. That was easy to set up. While running the heater and testing out all the functions I noticed an interesting thing with the coolant temps. The scan tool was hooked up and I noticed the temp was sitting at 215. The dash gauge showed just over the 210 mark. For fun I reved the engine to 2000 and the temp dropped instantly to 195. I was surprised. Now it has me wondering if I have a coolant flow issue.
My first thought was that I have an air flow issue. I actually removed the skirts on the front fenders to see if I could push hot air out. We’ll see how that goes. I may also look into a hi flow water pump as well.
I also swapped out the 18psi radiator cap for a 13psi unit. The main hope is that it will help the heater core live longer.
My milage to date. About 500 miles on the drivetrain.
My first thought was that I have an air flow issue. I actually removed the skirts on the front fenders to see if I could push hot air out. We’ll see how that goes. I may also look into a hi flow water pump as well.
I also swapped out the 18psi radiator cap for a 13psi unit. The main hope is that it will help the heater core live longer.
My milage to date. About 500 miles on the drivetrain.