The Rubi Q Build

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
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More ohms won't kill the amp, it won't be as loud. Less ohms than designed would kill the amp quicker.
If it has a dual voice coil, it would be easiest to stick with a DVC as the replacement since there are two sets of speaker wire existing.
Is it just the foam surround that is bad? That can be replaced separately if you want to keep that factory speaker. That route is fairly common for the Land Cruiser crowd....


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I've messed with the sub in the console a bit. My first mod was the Kicker 2 ohm. And, it worked pretty great with the factory amp. Substantial upgrade. That was awhile ago, and I don't remember the details, but I'm wanting to say I had to trim some plastic to make it fit right, but it wasn't a big deal.

About a year ago, I went sort of nuts with the tunes in my LJ. Upgraded everything. Initial round, was with a Kenwood powered sub, the Kenwood KSC-SW11. It fits perfectly in the console with removing the factory amp.

I just made an angle iron bracket for it, bolted to the floor, and the console sits right down over it nice and slick.


But I immediately went phase 2 on the audio upgrades. Needed more amp for the speakers I had chosen. So, while I was ordering another amp, I got stupid and ordered a bigger powered sub too. A Kenwood KSC-PSW8. This one required chopping a couple inches off the bottom of the cassette tray inside the console and is a tight-tight squeeze to make fit. But, fit it did.

With hindsight, the first powered sub, the KSC-SW11, would have kept up with the rest of the system. I run the bigger one in there now at about 75% most of the time and it way fills things out. The smaller one would have been fine. But I'd already altered the console and stuff, so left the bigger one in.

Anyway... I probably, maybe still have the Kicker. If you want it, let me know and I'll see if I do still have it, yours for the taking.

But I also still have the barely used KSC-SW11 (and the bracket I made). It's barely-barely been used. Like, maybe 4 hours. I have it complete with all the wiring that comes with it. Would let that go for $150. It stomps a mud hole in the Kicker upgrade.



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I just looked and I don't think I have the 2 ohm Kicker anymore. I remember throwing away the old Polk 5.25's that had been in the dash and I think I must have chucked the Kicker at the same time.



But stuck more often.
@DAA If I went with your SW11, I need to remove the factory amp, right? Does that amp power just the factory sub or does it power all the speakers? I don't really care enough about "great" sounding music to rewire all the speakers, run power wires, ect... What all needs to happen to make your sub/amp work?

Also, I have an aftermarket Alpine CD player, if that matters at all.


Well-Known Member
You know, my memory sucks... I know at some point I had to remove the factory amp. Whether that was to fit the SW11 or the PSW8, I'm actually not positive.

Whether you need to remove it or not, won't really matter though. You'll need to run a new power wire for the SW11. It has line level inputs, so you can use the existing inputs for the factory sub. Or, your Alpine may have a dedicated sub output, which, if it does, would be better to use and a small job - while you've got this all apart anyway. Either route, line level from factory sub wires or using sub output from your head unit, won't effect your other speakers at all.



But stuck more often.
Well this was a quick one. Dave offered his old subwoofer and I jumped on it. I figured I may as well update the rest of the speakers while I'm at it. I jumped on Amazon and got the speakers, baffles, and RCA cable. I also grabbed some door sill covers and a new 4WD switch that will go in this weekend.
I was blown away at how quickly everything showed up. Dave jumped on the shipping of the sub and I got it yesterday. Everything else showed up yesterday and today.


With the bracket Dave made it was a simple mount up. I removed old sub box and built in amp. I wasn't sure if I would need to keep the amp or not. Turns out it was not needed to run the main speakers. So out it went. I found it interesting that the stock amp has its own circuit and runs on a 20 amp fuse. This new amp uses a 10 amp fuse and draws only 8.5 max. So I reused the stock power and turn on wires.


These are the speakers I went with for the overheads and the dash. The overheads were straight forward so I didn't bother with any pictures. I just needed to make a very slight notch at each of the screw holes to allow me to reuse the stock speaker grills. I don't care much for the new ones and would really like it to stay stock looking.

This is how the dash speakers went together. They required a bit of work, to work. These brackets are needed to mount the 5.25" speakers in the dash. This particular bracket is offset so it will point the speaker straight back towards the occupants instead of at their feet like the stock speakers do.

The dash support brackets by the speakers also need to be notched so they will slip in. I didn't realize the bracket was sitting behind the mount when I drew this line. So I ended up needing to remove more than I thought.

Mounted and ready to go.

This is the line I drew for the driver side.

The notch was big enough on my first try!!! Installed easy and now it's all put back together.

I'm very impressed with how good the system sounds now. It's no concert hall, but for an old beater Jeep it's awesome!


But stuck more often.
I finished up this round of projects yesterday. Starting with the Rubicon style 4wd sensor. I didn’t know this but this one sensor isn’t just on or off. The resistance changes at each transfer case selection so the computer knows where it’s at and then allows certain other functions to happen. My sensor was allowing the 4wd light to come on in 2 wheel drive and it was going off in 4 wheel drive.
That’s the location. It’s a big sensor with a 1 1/2” socket head. I was just able to get a wrench on it without having to lower it. The 1” body lift helped for sure.


Infinite resistance on the old vs 60ohms on the new one. The resistance went up the more I pressed on the plunger maxing at at 685.

Installed and ready to go. Dash lights are now functioning properly again.

From there I moved over to doing the locker bypass mod. This allows the lockers to engage not just in 4 low. To do this you simply ground the two lockers enable wires. Pin one on the switch connector is a ground wire and pins 4 & 5 are the two enable wires.

I like the fixes that only take five minutes!

Lastly, I installed some door sill trim. Not sure how well these will hold up, but for now they look much better.

My mileage to date.

I’m thinking about doing a tune up next. I don’t think it needs it but I really want to do a compression check to see where it’s at. So I’ll throw new plugs and stuff while I’m in there.


But stuck more often.
I actually wonder if it will ever come in handy for me. I don’t know if any high speed stuff around here that would even require locker engagement and I’m pretty sure I won’t be getting into any snow either.
Always nice to have options available though.


But stuck more often.
A year or so ago a nice rock hit the windshield putting chip in it. The sad thing is that the rock came from the jeeps front passenger side tire. Anyways, a couple weeks ago a bug landed on the inside of the windshield so my genius younger daughter decided to smash the bug with her foot. She got it, and also turned the chip into a crack. So now the jeep has a new windshield. It'll never be that clean again, I'm sure.



But stuck more often.
I ran across the BIG Smittybuild air compressor a while back. It had good review and seemed like a good option. The problem with this one is it's BIG. I spend a lot of time walking around the jeep trying to figure the best place to put it. Well, it just didn't fit. Anywhere. So I put the compressor on the shelf and forgot about it while I decided what to do.
One day, while looking over it again I noticed that the intake tube could pivot back to the firewall which would open up a space where the factory air filter box sits. Playing around with it, it was perfect. The tube just fits between the firewall and the A/C lines. By adding a 45* silicone elbow the filter would just miss the fuse box. I would need to lengthen the PVC tube and the IAT sensor wiring. I pulled the trigger and went for it.


There was enough holes and flat spots to start building a mounting bracket.




Four rubber mounts and then a support for the cylinder head. There is very little vibration passed on to the body. I was happy about that. The vertical tab will hold a bulkhead fitting for the hose.

Painted and ready to go.

Mounting the compressor to the new mount. The Smittybuilt compressor kind of goofy. It comes with a hose with a built in air chuck and pressure gauge. The idea is that you watch the pressure rise to your pressure point and then just switch it off. That wouldn't work with it hard mounted so I rewired it and added a pressure switch. Now I can just turn it on and it will run and shut off on its own.

I needed to add about 6" to the IAT sensor wires. Soldered, heatshrink and wire loom. Good as new.

Almost finished. Just need to grab a fitting so I can install the hose and QD for the hose.

I'll time the fill times and report back.