Thoughts on welding a wheel?

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Premium Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
#1
I've got steel MRT beadlocks on my FJ40. Not only is MRT/MRW out of business, they are a custom backspace and 36 bolt so finding a single replacement will be what I'm considering impossible. Prove me wrong :D

So at some point I vaguely remember getting a rock stuck in a wheel, bad enough that I had to pry it out. Well fast forward a year (or five) and I notice I have two small cracks on the wheel flange (not intersecting with lug holes) that extend from the aesthetic windows approx an inch. They are old based on corrosion and don't appear to by moving. I'd feel fine grinding a small relief and welding the crack, followed by grinding smooth. The wheels all need to be powder coated again badly so that's not a concern.

From a metallurgy aspect I've got no qualms, after all they get welded during assembly and it's not like they post-treat with any process.

Any thoughts or concerns?
 
#2
I'd feel totally comfortable with your plan.

You could have the finished weld shot peened to relieve any stress risers and then perform a magnetic particle or simple dye penetrant inspection but all of that is probably way over the top.

Weld it and run it!
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Location
Magna
#3
Might be a "duhh" moment, but......DONT weld with the tire on the wheel, or at least remove the valve core. Other than that, go for it!

 
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cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Premium Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
#5
I'm fully a believer of the PV=nRT

That is crazy how the heat built the temp minutes later.

So the moral of the story is weld for a bit and they walk away for a few minutes?
 

mesha

By endurance we conquer
Supporting Vendor
Location
A.F.
#6
On frame cracks I was told to drill a small hole at the end of the cracks before you weld will help keep the crack from growing. I am not sure if it is really necessary, but I do keep doing it :)
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
#8
I was going to mention the tire must be dismounted and drilling a small hole to stop the fracture from spreading, but I see both subjects have been covered! Sounds like you know what to do Kurt. :cool:
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
#9
What everyone else said, drill a hole to stop the crack.

My understanding is that it's not the heat but a chemical reaction caused by the heat that causes the tire to blow. (According to the MSHA instructor/course I took)
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Location
Magna
#12
This is the video I orininally wanted to show but couldn't find it.

Apparently removing the core isn't good enough. Remove the tire from the wheel.
 
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cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Premium Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
#13
So fast forward a year, finally pulled the wheels off the truck and there are many cracks. Boo!

I'm not sure what the root cause is but I need to figure something out. I think they could easily be cleaned up and welded, or just ran on a trail rig. I drive this things all over the road at speed up to 100mph (@bryson can vouch for that).

So, options are replace with a whole new wheel, perhaps get into this century with 17" wheels :D

I've been eying these:
https://www.battlebornwheels.com/collections/wheels/products/gate-keeper-offroad-beadlock-black

Option 2 is have a wheel shop replace my centers as that is where all the cracks are. I've not had a minute to call around and check pricing but I can't imaging it being cost effective by the time ship them, pay their labor and still need to get them cleaned up and powder-coated.

Anyone have another suggestion for 6x5.5, 3-3.5"BS beadlocks? I'm partial to steel but warm on aluminum I suppose.
 
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