• DCRC 20222

General Tech What did you work on Today?

Gravy

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Nice work. Looks just like the real ones :thumbs up:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com

Tusk Master Link Clip Pliers

The Tusk Master Link Clip Pliers make the difficult task of installing and removing clip-type master links a simple and fast task. Specially designed tips on the pliers easily grip the master link pin while pushing the clip on effortlessly. This tool is a must for any motorcycle or ATV user...
www.rockymountainatvmc.com www.rockymountainatvmc.com


That new sprocket is made by supersprox
They're in Ukraine. So you can feel good about that ;)
 
moab_cj5

moab_cj5

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Location
The Village of Kay
Gravy said:
Nice work. Looks just like the real ones :thumbs up:
www.rockymountainatvmc.com

Tusk Master Link Clip Pliers

The Tusk Master Link Clip Pliers make the difficult task of installing and removing clip-type master links a simple and fast task. Specially designed tips on the pliers easily grip the master link pin while pushing the clip on effortlessly. This tool is a must for any motorcycle or ATV user...
www.rockymountainatvmc.com www.rockymountainatvmc.com


That new sprocket is made by supersprox
They're in Ukraine. So you can feel good about that ;)
Click to expand...
I wanted those but forgot to add them to my order, so I had to make my own.

Knowing my sproket was made in Ukraine takes some of the sting out of the price. Seems like a quality piece.
 
1969honda

1969honda

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Location
Cache
Finished buttoning up the 6.0L for the Yukon I started early last week. Due to some health issues I didn't touch it again from my last post until Saturday. I finished up the rotating assembly and timing chain with cam yesterday. Today I got all of the valves for other head lapped and both totally assembled.

Had a great time this evening getting the heads on and torqued down with my oldest son in the garage. It was a bit of fun seeing him try to torque down head bolts with how light he is, but he got them all down for all 3 stages. After that we threw the pushrods, rockers and valve covers on and called it a night.

As I was bagging the engine however I realized I never even checked the steam vents before bolting the heads down. DOH! Guess I'll be carefully removing those rivets and sourcing a 4 port vent setup or capping the rears off.
 

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UNSTUCK

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Had an interesting repair earlier this week. One of our fleet trucks (2016 F150 3.5 n/a) came in just knocking away. It really got me down as I just don't have time to mess with an engine right now. I was told the tech had been driving it for a week like that. That brightened up my mood just a bit. I then got to thinking it could be a busted flex plate instead. While I have never seen it happen, I have heard they make a nasty lower end knocking sound when they crack. It got parked for a few hours before I could look at it.
When I brought it in and started walking around it the noise was definitely coming from the front of the engine, so no flex plate. I opened the hood and right away I saw the water pump pully flopping around all over the place. I shut the engine off, removed the belt and grabbed the pully. It was easily one of the most failed water pump bearings I've ever felt. I was very relieved. Get this, it didn't leak a drop of coolant, and the reservoir was full. Swapped it out and she ran smooth and quite. I would have never guessed it was a water pump making all that noise.
 
frieed

frieed

Jeepless in Draper
Supporting Member
Location
Draper, UT
So this showed up in the garage a couple weeks ago.

20220423_162936.jpg

With a couple of issues

20220423_163008.jpg

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20220423_162859.jpg

All of the welds were done with mig which looked great but were seriously lacking in filler metal.

and my attempt at a fix

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20220507_145621.jpg

What really surprised me was that it took the full 220A output of my TIG welder to get the puddle started within a reasonable time.
Apparently I was welding on a large heat sink with lot of surface area.
This was probably aggravated by the fact that I had the AC balance set for lots of cleaning action due to the dirtiness of the metal which takes heat away from the weld and puts it into the tungsten.
Also, note to self, turn on the argon before you start next time, burned the end right off a 1/8" tungsten.

@TurboMinivan let me know when you want to pick it up.
 
Trate D

Trate D

Active Member
frieed said:
So this showed up in the garage a couple weeks ago.

View attachment 148908

With a couple of issues

View attachment 148909

View attachment 148911

View attachment 148913

All of the welds were done with mig which looked great but were seriously lacking in filler metal.

and my attempt at a fix

View attachment 148914

View attachment 148915

What really surprised me was that it took the full 220A output of my TIG welder to get the puddle started within a reasonable time.
Apparently I was welding on a large heat sink with lot of surface area.
This was probably aggravated by the fact that I had the AC balance set for lots of cleaning action due to the dirtiness of the metal which takes heat away from the weld and puts it into the tungsten.
Also, note to self, turn on the argon before you start next time, burned the end right off a 1/8" tungsten.

@TurboMinivan let me know when you want to pick it up.
Click to expand...
I had all those same issues with my fenders. Finally just opted for the steel version and have had 3 trouble free years. That being said my original fenders made it 9 years....
 
frieed

frieed

Jeepless in Draper
Supporting Member
Location
Draper, UT
Gravy said:
For sure the size hurts, but It's the oxidation that takes amperage to break through. If you clean them with a flap wheel and preheat with a torch it'll start at lower amperage.
Click to expand...
I hit it with a SS brush and did not see any oxide breaking up as I started the puddle. Overall I was happy with how it went, other than my shaky hand.
 
TurboMinivan

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
Trate D said:
I had all those same issues with my fenders. Finally just opted for the steel version and have had 3 trouble free years. That being said my original fenders made it 9 years....
Click to expand...

For the record, the aluminum fender pictured is 9 years and 2 months old. I think the majority of the cracking was due to it being pushed outward from vehicle (tire) contact during loading and unloading. The other fender also has a crack or two, but they are much smaller and not yet any concern.

Thanks, @frieed! I just need to head up there with the Suburban some time since that won't fit in the 'Vette.
 
frieed

frieed

Jeepless in Draper
Supporting Member
Location
Draper, UT
TurboMinivan said:
For the record, the aluminum fender pictured is 9 years and 2 months old. I think the majority of the cracking was due to it being pushed outward from vehicle (tire) contact during loading and unloading. The other fender also has a crack or two, but they are much smaller and not yet any concern.

Thanks, @frieed! I just need to head up there with the Suburban some time since that won't fit in the 'Vette.
Click to expand...
bring the other fender and I'll fix/reinforce it while you are here
 
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Gawynz

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Not sure if this should go in the "let's talk dogs", "lighten the mood" or what, but I built a masterpiece so I figured I'd post it here. Completely stupid but it's cracking me up so I have to share it. Short story, dog has been gnawing at his feet the last couple days, maybe allergies, infection, or something the vet doesn't know, but he got his socks shaved off and has to wear a cone for 10 days. Got home and he couldn't eat out of his bowl, some 2x4s out of the shop, a bucket of random screws, and 4min later. Find me on etsy.

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