General Tech What did you work on Today?

JeeperG

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverdale
Still plugging away at prepping everything for primer, my brother cut out the Mr.40s logos on my inner fenders and patched since we modified them to be able to remove my radiator without tearing the front end apart and are now one off.

PXL_20220609_234936935.jpg

Moved the final bit of large stuff over to the paint booth, running boards, front fenders, inner fenders and started small weld repairs and sanding for the primer.

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I also spent a bunch of time disassembling a bunch of small parts and oh boy are there a lot of them.
 

Die Blaue Ziege

Working on a Ford somewhere
Location
Logan ut
I went on the Ghost town tour a few weeks ago with the folks at Expedition Utah, it was a good time, however I took my Superduty and somehow one of the stock hubs broke, so there I am sliding all over the place flipping rock and dust everywhere, trying to figure out wtf is going on. Damn plastic hubs. So as soon as I got home I ordered a new set of Mile marker hubs for the 01 Superduty, then as I was rebuilding my 68 f250 front end the vintage selectro hub crumbled. So I order a set of mile markers for it as well, at this point I feel like opera, you get a mile marker, you get a mile marker, everyone gets a mile marker.
 

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Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Thought I'd share my interesting repair with everyone today.

Gentleman brought me a UTV with a stripped drain plug. Only 1000 miles on the thing... No depth to retap threads larger and the engine case itself was in places only 1/8" so neither a helicoil nor timesert was going to work (the case is so thin which is why it stripped in the first place).
IMG_20220613_203147.jpg

IMG_20220613_203136.jpg

The estimate to pull the motor is 9hrs. Plus replacing a case half made the estimated repair given at multiple places similar in price to an actual motor ($3500).

Here's what we ordered.
IMG_20220613_203130.jpg

After removing the plastic skid plate I found another 1/8" steel skid to contend with; that got cut out as well.

This motor has already sat for nearly a week at another repair shop with the plug out in order to drain the remaining oil out. Not good enough.
After cleaning and torching the AL around the plug hole in preparation for the weld in extension bung and trying to tack it in- oil still kept bubbling out of the pourous cast AL. (Put this on repeat for hours).
And upsidedown TIG welding dirty material sucks.
Ugly fusion tack weld
20220613_133857_exported_2995_1655174554822.jpg
Unacceptable- cut it off, clean it, try again...

At this point I made no further attempt to photograph this fix LoL

Upsidedown won't work so...
4- 40's on the ground and tip it on its side...
20220613_135744_exported_2140_1655174749809.jpg

Anyway, after much welding and cleaning and welding and grinding; I finally got the weld bung on with no more pin holes from bubbling oil. It actually looked pretty decent, but my vanity kept me from photos LoL.

Welded up the skid plate and added some 1 3/4" 0.120 DOM around the skid plate drain hole to extend the skid lower than the new plug.
And surprisingly between the two of us- we pushed it back on all 4 wheels. Then loaded it up with the winch (he got a lesson on how to use it ;) ).

A complicated fix. But when the 2 options are
1). A new motor
Or
2.) 9 hours to pull the motor and 9 hrs to replace it -after welding in position on the bench
This 4.5 hr fix was pretty good.
And with 4 times the thread depth than stock; it should be the least of his worries.

Cross your fingers and say a prayer for him that it doesn't leak ;)

Thanks for watching.
 
Last edited:

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
Thought I'd share my interesting repair with everyone today.

Gentleman brought me a UTV with a stripped drain plug. Only 1000 miles on the thing... No depth to retap threads larger and the engine case itself was in places only 1/8" so neither a helicoil nor timesert was going to work (the case is so thin which is why it stripped in the first place).
View attachment 149870

View attachment 149866

The estimate to pull the motor is 9hrs. Plus replacing a case half made the estimated repair given at multiple places similar in price to an actual motor ($3500).

Here's what we ordered.
View attachment 149865

After removing the plastic skid plate I found another 1/8" steel skid to contend with; that got cut out as well.

This motor has already sat for nearly a week at another repair shop with the plug out in order to drain the remaining oil out. Not good enough.
After cleaning and torching the AL around the plug hole in preparation for the weld in extension bung and trying to tack it in- oil still kept bubbling out of the pourous cast AL. (Put this on repeat for hours).
And upsidedown TIG welding dirty material sucks.
Ugly fusion tack weld
View attachment 149868
Unacceptable- cut it off, clean it, try again...

At this point I made no further attempt to photograph this fix LoL

Upsidedown won't work so...
4- 40's on the ground and tip it on its side...
View attachment 149869

Anyway, after much welding and cleaning and welding and grinding; I finally got the weld bung on with no more pin holes from bubbling oil. It actually looked pretty decent, but my vanity kept me from photos LoL.

Welded up the skid plate and added some 1 3/4" 0.120 DOM around the skid plate drain hole to extend the skid lower than the new plug.
And surprisingly between the two of us- we pushed it back on all 4 wheels and loaded it up.

A complicated fix. But when the 2 options are
1). A new motor
Or
2.) 9 hours to pull the motor and 9 hrs to replace it -after welding in position on the bench
This 4.5 hr fix was pretty good.
And with 4 times the thread depth than stock; it should be the least of his worries.

Cross your fingers and say a prayer for him that it doesn't leak ;)

Thanks for watching.
Awesome! I love that you just dive in head first on these types of problems. I would have over complicated everything
 

Die Blaue Ziege

Working on a Ford somewhere
Location
Logan ut
I’m new to body work, I worked on this for the past two days, I thinks it’s coming along really nice. I’m taking my time building it up one small layer at a time. I still have about 1/2 inch to go to get everything flush. What do you all think?
 

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mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I’m new to body work, I worked on this for the past two days, I thinks it’s coming along really nice. I’m taking my time building it up one small layer at a time. I still have about 1/2 inch to go to get everything flush. What do you all think?



You'll get it. Keep slinging that mud :D; It actually works awesome if you don't put the catalyst in it. Just put it on straight out of the can. Less likely to crack. Use 40 grit sandpaper to get the shape right. Then go from there.
 

Die Blaue Ziege

Working on a Ford somewhere
Location
Logan ut
I’m new to body work, I worked on this for the past two days, I thinks it’s coming along really nice. I’m taking my time building it up one small layer at a time. I still have about 1/2 inch to go to get everything flush. What do you all think?
I hope you all know I’m not really responsible for this, I saw it at work and after my jaw hit the ground I thought I would share it with you all.
 
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