Who can build me the box/frame for this trailer? (aka need welding)

[theferg]

I could build this for you, I was thinking about it and came up with some pretty cool ideas for it. Do you know the dimensions you want for the box? I was guessing about 4' Long 3' wide and about 18" tall. I came up with a handy way to get the tailgate to latch and also a way for you to have a sealing hardtop that comes all the way off really easily, if we added some fold down legs you can use the top as a table. I was planning on letting you put on your own siding and top skins, unless they need welds. I have welded for about 7 years and do it alot at work too. I have built a few trailers, steel decks and alot of heavy structural stuff in the past and this is a very small job. I also do some light machining, nothing fancy. I am really good at making sure everything is square and fits right before welding it all the way, Im kind of a perfectionist when it comes to stuff like this. Do you have a budget that you are working with? I have added up some of the metal and some of the parts, and have a little bit of an idea of what it will cost. I just need to know how fancy you want this? Basically do you want Geo package or the Chevy package or the Cadillac package? The multi-purpose top will be a bit more money, but it would be really cool and useful. My attitude when I build stuff is that its cheaper and easier to do it right the first time (with all the bells and whistles) than it is to try to add parts later. What type of hitch were you going to use? Let me know what you had in mind and we can work something out! Also if anybody else wants one like this, now would be a really good time to let me know, it will be really easy to build two, side by side. Feel free to call me, but in the evening is best. 801-898-6561.

I'm workin up a lil design for it now... Really, i'm thinking just pretty basic--like what you see in the pic, but a sealable top would definitely be sweet. The size i'm thinking is more like 60" long, 48" wide. My track width is around 65" or so on my Cruiser and i'll prob put it around that same width, maybe 6" or so less wide. Run some ~33x12 or ~35x12 tires on 8 inch wheels (same wheels as in the pic actually). Anyway, I'm kinda thinking out loud here. I'd def love to chat with ya about it. I'll give ya a call within a few days or so here (busy with work).

-Ferg-

 

[Bart]

Bart -Do you want one?

I'd be interested in buying parts (axles, springs, hangers) and a Saturday of measuring, cutting, welding and grinding to get a few rolling frames built up. I could do the rest of the clean up, adding panels, and painting on my own.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The steel/skin is going to cost twice that of the axle/hangers. As I mentioned earlier I would heavily advice against the generic trailer leaf spring in favor of something much longer (and a lower spring rate). The axles you will be sourcing are likely going to be either 2500lb or 3500lb, I'd imagine the springs are the same... way too stiff for a ~1000 lb trailer that you need movement out of.

One option I was considering was some Teraflex YJ leafs, nice and long, I beleive they are bushed at both ends, shackles and hangers are cheap and easy. Plenty of them available, including in lift varieties. I might even use some new Old Man Emu springs? Really I need to sit down with my other pepes and get our game plans together.

 

[YotaDunesman]

The steel for the box comes in at about 100.00 bucks, maybe a little more depending on size. The side panels are the expensive part if you are doing diamond plate. That stuff is pricey! I would just use flat sheet metal maybe 20 gauge and use rivets or self tapping screws to attach it to the sides, its too thin to want to weld it in place. Then I would run a bead of caulk around the framing, to waterproof it. You may think that this is too thin, but it should be ok, its not like you will have alot of side force on the metal, you will be hauling a cooler, chairs, tent, gas cans, not gravel that will push on the sides. I do agree that you need some long leaf's maybe even just one leaf with a light shock. You could call AAA Leaf and spring and they can make leafs custom for you. I imagine that if your trailer is 5 feet long you probably want a leaf thats about 4 feet long, to optimize for handling and flex.
Bart- are you capable of building your own, or do you just need the cutting and welding done?

 

[Bart]

Plenty capable of cutting. I weld body panels, so this shouldn't be too tough. My problem is I don't have chop saw or welder. Working on getting both, but need to run 220 to the garage first.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The steel for the box comes in at about 100.00 bucks, maybe a little more depending on size...

What material are you spec'ing at that price? Where are you buying your steel?

 

[theferg]

So who's all in? And who's got some space that we can all take over for a few hours?

Theres also been a few people offer to help out on welding this stuff up for me...definitely appreciate all the offers. You guys are awesome. Perhaps we could get a few saws and welders all at the same place one night...make for a good choppin and weldin party...

-Ferg-

 

[YotaDunesman]

I was guestimating materials that were used on the build that ferg was referring to as a model, he used very thin tube steel, and its cheap. I buy my metal at metal mart in Lehi, I live in Draper and work in bluffdale so lehi is closer than going to Wasatch steel on 3300 south. They have most of the pricing on their website, www.metlamart.biz In the 100 bucks i didnt include the sheet metal sides, or the top that would be at least another 25 bucks in sheet and another 25 for the top frame.

 

[Brett]

I'm still interested.........Now, can I have one by October 9th?

 

[YotaDunesman]

Brett
Yeah that shouldn't be a problem. Do you want the sealing top to be removable or hinged? If removable with or with out table legs? What size do you want it? How tall do you want it? (or how tall is your cooler or gas can or the tallest thing that would go in there) I am going to leave it up to you to get your own axle, springs, mounts, tires, lights, hitch mechanism, wood floor. I will do all the welding, cutting and grinding, but you need to supply all the parts except the metal. I would want some small D-rings mounted on the inside so you can stap your cargo down, because it will be bouncing around. The ones that I am looking at are only 1.50 each and you could put one on the bottom of each of the upright tubes. Do you want just plain sheet metal sides, or do you want the expensive diamond plate? Ill try to add everything up tonight and see how much everything will cost me, so you have an idea of about how much this will be.

 

[Brett]

I'll have to get back to you on size, but I would guess probably just the same size as that one in the build. I'll measure some stuff tonight.

 

[YotaDunesman]

ok, sounds good. I dont know exactly how big the one in the build is, I guess we could ask him. Put a pile of all the stuff you would pack in it together and try to get an idea of what size you need. Ferg wanted 5' long and 4' wide. I am guessing about 18-24" tall from the deck to the top.

 

[Brett]

ok, sounds good. I dont know exactly how big the one in the build is, I guess we could ask him. Put a pile of all the stuff you would pack in it together and try to get an idea of what size you need. Ferg wanted 5' long and 4' wide. I am guessing about 18-24" tall from the deck to the top.

That's the same length and width as the one pictured and I think that the height would be about that as well.

 

[theferg]

That all sounds good to me. One thing I actually wanted to change on it was the flooring... I'm not so keen on the plywood... Maybe some sheet metal...? Any suggestions here? And i don't care for the diamond plate either. Sheet metal there is fine with me. And the more better its sealed, the more better i'll be when i arrive to my destination.

And I am also going to be putting a rooftop tent up on there like the one in the pic too. So not sure how to go about a sealable hinge-style top with a tent sitting up above it... Any ideas there as well?

-Ferg-

 

[YotaDunesman]

Do you know which rooftop tent you are going to buy? Or do you have one already? Any idea how it mounts? It looks like it hooks to a ski rack. If I worked at it a little I bet I could make my own ski rack and have it hinge out of the way. This way you can get your gear out of the top easily. Also the sealed top/table would just pop off like in my normal design and be used as a table. Then simply hinge the rack back into place and set up the tent. I bet that we could slide the top under the ski rack and then latch it into place, that way if your tent is set up already you can still get into the trailer, plus the access from the tailgate. As far as running sheet metal on the floor, I do agree that it would seal a ton better, but it ought to be made out of thicker and stronger sheet than what is used for the sides since you may want to stand in the trailer. I am really confident that I can get the top to seal 100 percent. The tail gate is the hard part, I could probably keep about 90 percent of the water out, but if you are going through a river, it will leak through. The best option is to not have a tailgate and just take the top off to get in. I will think about this a little more, it has to be possible. I just have to find the right type of hinges and latch.

 

[YotaDunesman]

I figured out how to seal the tailgate, it should work flawlessy! It will actually have two sealing points, so it better seal. I have to change how the tailgate looks from the back, but it should look fine. No worries

FYI- I am going to Las Vegas in the morning and dont have a laptop, so if you want to talk to me give me a call. I will check the thread and my email if i get a chance, but it probably wont happen until sunday. I will probably be able to start building a trailer next week sometime. I have ordered a few parts just to make sure they will work like I want them to.

I was also thinking that if we ran the hitch tube all the way to the back of the trailer, you will have a really good recovery point on the back of the trailer if you put a shackle in the tube. This may come in handy, my theory is that if you build it there you won't ever use it, but if you don't build it on, you will wish you had it because you will need it.

 

[theferg]

Haven't got the tent already. Most likely be a mombasa. Dimensions of the base (folded up) are 47in (L) x 55in (W) x 12in (H). I was thinking of just using a ski rack for mounting...but again, open to suggestion here. I do like the idea of having the mounts on a hinge.

Sweetness on the tailgate seal. Be nice to have it totally sealed.

The hitch tube all the way to the rear also is a good idea that I would def like to use.

-Ferg-

 

[Cody]

My room mate has a trailer that uses a trailing arm and motorcycle shock/strut for suspension. Seems to work prettywell.

What about using a trailing arm and a soft 10" coilover spring, and a cheap shock?

airbags and a shock? like the load leveling ones people put into coilsprings?

 

[YotaDunesman]

I think that a trailing arm setup would work great, but I dont know too much about them. The next thing is it going to be cost effective? If a trailing arm system wheels better, but costs another 200 bucks to setup, plus time, then it may not be worth it. Most likely the arm would have to be custom fabricated, which can be done, but it takes time. I dont know the numbers, I am just guessing. Does anybody know someone that has trailing arms on their trailer so we could take a look? Look at the picture from page one of this thread, it has a trailing arm setup. Another thought is trailing arms with leaf springs parallel to the axle beam, and upside down. O dont know how well that would do on/off the road, but just a thought. I think that i have seen it somewhere, can't remember where. I do like the idea of a coilover spring and a shock though. You just have to make sure your coil doenst fall out. I am not familiar with the aribags that you are talking about.

 

[suisuki]

I made an offroad trailer with independant t.arm susp this past summer. the box is 4' long about 4' wide and the hight above the deck is about 30" also has a water tight top w/ rack that makes a table when open. man you can fit a ton of stuff in this, sure makes it nice when you have a tiny zuk (and 2 kids), anyway, i have not been happy with the performace of the suspension in off camber situations, as the ind sus lets the weight transfer to the down-hill side causing the trailer to lean down hill:-\, this has actually caused the trailer to roll onto its side, i guess maybe my track width is not wide enoghf for the hight of my c.g. (center of gravity). anyway I ended up welding a solid link between the trailing arms before the last trip(solid axle), made it tow alot better, however if your not going to use your trail trailer in these conditions the t. arm susp. is great like for going down dirt roads ect.. however the trailer doesn't seen to corner as well with the indp. set up. (body rolls)
to fab the links i used 1.5" .120 dom and yj spring bushings and more 1.5 .120 for the pivot points (very cheap), also 1" stub axles fit great sleeved in .120 dom the stub part is 1.25" ( if you want a custom width axle, or indp set up) and are cheap from notherntools.com For spring I'm using some go cart/tote gote style small coilovers rated at 500# ea,
i'll try an post some picks of the set up tomorrow.
right now im thinking of junking the t.arm's in favor of a wider soild axle, rear yj springs only top 2-3 from pack, and some shocks.