Jeep Willys 'Crawler' project

[Greg]

I fully support any plan that creates the need to notch the grill for pumpkin clearance.

I do think I'm going to cut and raise the edges of the hood, for more tire clearance and probably fab up a set of fenders out of 1 1/4" tube. Hopefully tie the fenders in to the shock mounts, for more strength.

 

[zmotorsports]

Lookin' sweet Greg.

Great build.

Mike

 

[Greg]

Lookin' sweet Greg.

Great build.

Mike

Appreciate it, Mike!

 

[Greg]

Spent some time working on this again today, got the Sawzall, torch and grinder out and cut the rear coil buckets and lower link mounts off the rear axle.... then used the wire wheel to clean up the axle best I could. Next, I welded up my rear 4 Link Brackets and tacked them into place... then built my rear-upper links. I ordered some new, lower link brackets and am waiting on them to show up, then can cut the lowers into place. I got all my parts from RuffStuff and they're serious BEEF. Probably a bit too big for this little Willys, but they'll last a long time and be damn near bulletproof.

The rear links are shorter than I wanted, but I'm limited by the wheelbase and t-case. The front lower links will be longer than the rears by a few inches, not a big deal but I'd like longer rather than shorter.

As expected, my front driveshaft with the 4L60E/Dana 300 combo is going to be TIGHT. I believe I can build a driveshaft like a CJ front, with 1 1/4" x .120" tube and make it work. I'd rather not run a pillow block and 2 piece driveshaft, so I'll see if I can make it work.

This pic is 1" tube sitting in the center of the yoke on the t-case and front axle....

 

[Hickey]

Can you clock the tcase up more? That might swing the yoke away from the tranny a bit more.

 

[Greg]

Can you clock the tcase up more? That might swing the yoke away from the tranny a bit more.

Not with the factory adapter that I'm using... I suppose I might be able to redrill the pattern? I'll look into it... better belly clearance would be good, too... but the t-case is already hitting the tub.

 

[Hickey]

Catherine needs something to rest her feet on anyway...

 

[Herzog]

Looking great! That is definitely tight on the front driveline!

 

[Greg]

Looking great! That is definitely tight on the front driveline!

Thanks! I'll be excited when it's a roller, that is a big step.

We will see how the front driveshaft works out, just ordered parts to build a lil' cute one.

 

[zmotorsports]

Looking great Greg. Coming along nicely and nice job on the welds.

Mike

 

[mbryson]

Spent some time working on this again today, got the Sawzall, torch and grinder out and cut the rear coil buckets and lower link mounts off the rear axle.... then used the wire wheel to clean up the axle best I could. Next, I welded up my rear 4 Link Brackets and tacked them into place... then built my rear-upper links. I ordered some new, lower link brackets and am waiting on them to show up, then can cut the lowers into place. I got all my parts from RuffStuff and they're serious BEEF. Probably a bit too big for this little Willys, but they'll last a long time and be damn near bulletproof.

The rear links are shorter than I wanted, but I'm limited by the wheelbase and t-case. The front lower links will be longer than the rears by a few inches, not a big deal but I'd like longer rather than shorter.

As expected, my front driveshaft with the 4L60E/Dana 300 combo is going to be TIGHT. I believe I can build a driveshaft like a CJ front, with 1 1/4" x .120" tube and make it work. I'd rather not run a pillow block and 2 piece driveshaft, so I'll see if I can make it work.

This pic is 1" tube sitting in the center of the yoke on the t-case and front axle....

CJ front will work pretty well

 

[Bart]

Wow, great progress Greg.

 

[Greg]

Looking great Greg. Coming along nicely and nice job on the welds.

Mike

I appreciate that Mike, I had to step up my game after seeing your welds...

CJ front will work pretty well

I was going to text you and ask some questions over the weekend, but I knew you were having fun playing in the Swell. I have parts on the way, going to build a new 1 1/4" shaft, CJ style.

Wow, great progress Greg.

Thanks Bart! If I can keep up the momentum like I had, it'll be a roller before you know it!

 

[Bart]

I really like the bolt pattern on the weld in bung. I wish all manufacturers would machine in at least 2 flat sides to make tightening up the jamb nuts easier.

 

[Gravy]

I've got a skinny YJ front if you want something to cut up for cheap

 

[zmotorsports]

I appreciate that Mike, I had to step up my game after seeing your welds...

Thanks Greg, but I don't have anything on ya. Those look pretty damn good from where I'm sitting.

Mike

 

[crimsonride]

Honestly, the 4.3 would be much more affordable and easier... and make WAY more sense. At this point, I would probably need another $2000-2500 to build, install and get the harness and tune for the V8. With the 4.3, I need a $500 harness and ECU. And the MPFI Vortec 4.3 is pretty peppy, it's no slouch!

$500 harness?!? A man of your talents could modify your own harness. I did my own and it only took a few hours.... and if I can do it than most people can! Seriously, you could save some cash here, it's not that bad.

 

[Greg]

I really like the bolt pattern on the weld in bung. I wish all manufacturers would machine in at least 2 flat sides to make tightening up the jamb nuts easier.

Quality RuffStuff parts to thank, there! I just ordered one of their rear 4 link and front 3 link kits, made picking out the pieces easy and you know it's going to be quality!

I've got a skinny YJ front if you want something to cut up for cheap

I'm good, already have parts on the way for a custom front shaft and they'll be here tomorrow.... just need the 1 1/4" x .120 DOM! But thanks for the offer, Stratton!

Thanks Greg, but I don't have anything on ya. Those look pretty damn good from where I'm sitting.

Mike

$500 harness?!? A man of your talents could modify your own harness. I did my own and it only took a few hours.... and if I can do it than most people can! Seriously, you could save some cash here, it's not that bad.

I hate electrical work and sorting thru a harness sounds more stressful than fun, worrying if it's going to work or not. $500 gets me a harness and ECU that's tuned w/o emissions, VATS, etc. It sounds like a deal to me!

 

[Greg]

Well, another big step in the suspension/parts question was acquired today, in the way of 4 SwayAway air shocks. They're used, both 16" travel and the fronts are 2.5", rears are 2". The SAW air shocks hold more weight than similar Fox air shocks and they seem to work better from what I've seen. I was going to run 2.0 Fox coil overs, but these were cheap and I couldn't pass up the deal. Plus, the packaging of air shocks and simple tuning were attractive. I had planned to run 14's, but I think I can make 16's work.... hell, no shock mounts are in place, so that's all workable. I'm excited to have 2.5's for the front, they seem to stabilize a rig pretty well compared to 2.0 air shocks.

I'll try get pics after I clean them up... they're used and dirty.

 

[Gravy]

16'' 2.5"s! Wow! Talk about 10lbs of stuff in a 5lb sack. I'm excited to see the packaging.