ZMotorSports 2011 JKUR Build Thread

I am new here but thought I would throw up some pictures of my latest Jeep build. It is not real time as I have owned it now for almost two years.

I bought the Jeep with only 3208 miles on the odometer and commenced building my "Dream Jeep". This is my daily driver and weekend wheeler.

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On lift just before sitting it down with the 4" BDS Suspension Lift and 35" KM2 tires/ATX Crawl wheels.
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Backed outside the shop after just barely sitting her on the ground with new lift and tires/wheels.
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More to come as I dig through the pictures. Also pictured here is the Warn Rockcrawler bumper/Powerplant combination that I purchased used just to get me by until I could fabricated my own bumpers.

Mike.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Thanks for the detailed writeup Mike! I need to do that on my Jeep, the Stability Control on JK's is about the most overly-sensitive and invasive thing ever!
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Thanks for the detailed writeup Mike! I need to do that on my Jeep, the Stability Control on JK's is about the most overly-sensitive and invasive thing ever!

Your welcome Greg, I hope others find it helpful. I have wanted to do it to mine for a while but finally just decided to make time and get it done. All in all it only took about a half an hour. Again, I should have performed this mod a long, long time ago.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I have wanted to replace my stock rock rails with the Teraflex rock sliders for several years now on my 2011 Jeep JKUR, I finally bit the bullet and purchesed them. They showed up a couple of days ago and last night I pulled the Jeep in and commenced work.

Here are the new Teraflex 4-door JK Rock Sliders sitting ready for installation.
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OEM rails ready to be removed.
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2" masking tape applied down the side to protect the paint while in the mock-up stage as well as to mark the holes for drilling.
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Holes drilled, tape pulled back so I could paint/coat the inside to prevent any corrosion related issues down the road.
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Thread Setter ready for duty.
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Ready for installation.
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Installation complete.
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Mike.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Nice upgrade!! It's a bit stressful drilling all those holes in the side of a clean Jeep, isn't it?! :rofl: I love the TF JK sliders, they'll help keep mud & road gunk off the sides of the JK, too!
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Nice upgrade!! It's a bit stressful drilling all those holes in the side of a clean Jeep, isn't it?! :rofl: I love the TF JK sliders, they'll help keep mud & road gunk off the sides of the JK, too!

Thanks Greg. Ya, I hated to drill all of those holes but Teraflex did their homework and the gasket should help tremendously. To be honest, one of the things I liked most about the Teraflex sliders were the fact that they stuck out enough to keep the sides out of a rock but also to prevent crap from flipping up on the body as much. I also liked the fact that they are solid and don't have any nooks and crannies for crap to get stuck in and collect in.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
My new shocks showed up Friday so on Saturday I replaced the shocks on my Jeep.

New Fox Shox 2.0. These are for the 4"-6" lift so they are a little longer bodied than my BDS that I removed. I am afraid my BDS shocks were actually my limiting straps as they were limiting my axle droop.
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Old in background and new Fox Shox 2.0 for 4"-6" lift in foreground.
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Fronts installed. 2.5" more tire to fender clearance at full droop.
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Rears installed. 1.5" more tire to fender clearance at full axle droop.
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Wow, the undercarriage needs a good detailing. Winter can't get over soon enough.

Took her for a test drive and was very happy. Now for some off-roading hopefully with the club in the next couple of weeks on our monthly trail run.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I replaced track bar bushings as well as installed longer stainless steel braided brake lines on the front of my Jeep last night. I detected a slight amount of slop the other night when I had the Jeep on the lift servicing it so I worked on rounding up replacement bushings. I know there are a lot of aftermarket track bars that people are using which are adjustable but mine is the proper length after installed a bracket to raise it up so it is in the same plane as the drag link. I couldn't see spending $300-$500 dollars for something I didn't need so I opted to replace the bushings in mine.

That turned out to be easier said than done. My local NAPA store only showed one bushing and after looking at places like Summit Racing they showed a box with two but were the same size. I had measured mine so I knew the upper (frame end) and lower (axle end) were indeed different sizes. After digging through some MOOG pdf files and matching measurements, I was able to determine which ones I needed and then had my local NAPA store cross them over for me. They had one in stock and the other they had to get from their local warehouse which was only a couple hour delay.

Here is what the frame end looked like when I removed it. Which was where my slop was coming from. Very slight but any slop in these things is detrimental to the handling.
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Pressing the old one out.
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Old one out compared to the new aftermarket one.
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New ones installed and in place. I did not tighten the bolts until I put the Jeep back down on the ground, otherwise you preload the bushings and it WILL destroy them in short order.
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Part #'s if anyone needs them.
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Pretty easy and straightforward job. I also replaced the 14mm bolts with 9/16" while I was at it as they fit the bushings and the frame/axle brackets a little more "snugly".
I really can't complain, the OEM bushings held up quite well for as much on and off-road my Jeep sees. The odometer has almost 59k miles on it and I have flat towed it another 12-15k miles.

Mike.

- - - Updated - - -

When I installed my new Fox 2.0 shocks a few weeks back, I went with the next size longer because I felt they were my limiting straps for droop with my now much more flexible suspension. They gave me over 2 more inches of droop but also were tugging on the stainless steel braided brake lines a bit more than I liked and I was already running 4+ over stock lines. I ordered some new 26" braided lines and they showed up a couple of days ago so while the Jeep was on the lift I opted to replace my front brake lines and bleed the system.

Here you can see they are not tight but there isn't a lot of extra slack there.
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New ones installed.
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They even have the correct amount of angle to keep the rigid lower section tucked in tighter behind the caliper than the previous ones did.
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These lines were manufactured by Crown brake lines and they appear to be of good quality. The ones I removed were also Crown and have held up well to the abuse I have put them through.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I knocked out one more little job between Friday night and Saturday morning. I really didn't care for the small single LED lights that I installed under my Jeep a few years ago for rock lights. They didn't illuminate much in the terms of ground, more gave it an "underglow" and were pretty much useless. I decided to remedy that before the summer wheelin' season starts. I had been looking at a lot of them lately and opted to go with Snevey's rock lights. They appear to be very durable and are quite bright for their size. These will work much better than the cheap plastic ones that I removed.

Here I am using some scrap steel to fabricate some mounts for the front. I also decided to change the mounting location and positioning from what I previously had.
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The front LED's mount up behind the lower crossmember on a 90-degree bracket so they are protected from the elements. I also angled them downward and outward to shine right in front of the front tires.
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The mid-ship mounted ones I also fastened to a metal bracket and very slightly (about 15-degrees) bent it so they shine down and outward just a little. These are mounted about where the "B" pillar is.
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For the rear LED's I used existing studs from the OEM muffler so I didn't have to make any penetrations into the tub. I fabricated a bracket but the screws slightly stuck out the top side. I merely machined four (2 for each side) spacers to space the plate down just far enough so the screws and nuts on the topside clear the tub.

Machining the four spacers from a piece of .625" diameter aluminum with a .250" hole in the middle.
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Spacers completed.
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Rear LED's mounted and wiring completed.
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Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I decided to fabricate some longer swaybar links for my Jeep yesterday after the wife and I returned from breakfast. The links that came with my BDS suspension system are a bit short now that I have more droop out after installing my longer Fox 2.0 shocks. So much so, that when the front axle is fully drooped out the sway and links are perfectly straight. I am afraid that in the event of a full droop and a bump the swaybar may invert and then when the Jeep's weight comes back down on it, there could be damage.

At ride height I like to have the swaybar ends pretty much parallel with the chassis and the ground but mine are pointing downward slightly so I figured about 1.25" longer would do the trick.

I scrounged through my scrap pile and found some 1.25" DOM tubing for the link ends and some .625" 4130 chromoly tubing for the body of the links. I purchased some poly bushings that will work once I slightly bore the 1.25" DOM tubing out.
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Here are the components machined. I also machined some internal spacers for the bushings out of 304 stainless steel. The two bottom ones will slightly stand the bushings out a bit from the axle for spacing as well as have a larger surface area for support.
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Lower bushing spacer from stainless steel to provide the necessary spacing and support.
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Links TIG welded.
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Beadblasted and ready for paint.
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Painted and hanging to dry.
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Tonight I will press the poly bushings in and install the new swaybar links on my Jeep.

Mike.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Nice clean work on everything you made. BUT...why are you using hourglass shock bushings in straight tubes? I can't see those lasting very long for you. Slop in the bushings will drive you crazy with the clunking, I'm afraid.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Always awesome to see your attention to detail on these small mods.

Thanks Brian, I appreciate the comments


Nice clean work on everything you made. BUT...why are you using hourglass shock bushings in straight tubes? I can't see those lasting very long for you. Slop in the bushings will drive you crazy with the clunking, I'm afraid.

Thanks for the comments. I have been using these in the past for similar applications and they have held up fairly well so far. No real issues yet.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
So I knocked one more project off of my list last week before our RVing season really got started. I think I mentioned a few threads back about how I had been picking up some rock chips on the back of our coach and a few on the front of the Jeep, compared to past Jeeps where I hardly ever had a rock chip in the previous several coaches and over 100k miles of flat towing. On our previous Jeeps all I used was a tow bar and nothing more which resulted in very, very few rock chips, if any while being towed. This coach and Jeep combination has netted me more rock chips on the back of the coach and a few on the front of the Jeep than all previous coach Jeep combinations combined and then some. My wife and I are thinking about getting our coach repainted this coming fall/winter and I wanted to get this addressed prior so I didn't chip up an expensive new paint job on the coach.

Well I think I discovered the issue last year when the wife and I were off-roading in our Jeep on nothing more than a fire road during a mild rain storm. I detected some rocks being throw forward from the tires. I stopped and did some detective work and noted that the rocks were being flung forward right between my custom made bumper and the front of the fenders, and possibly just below the front bumper as there is a slight gap between the Roadmaster Tow Defender and the front bumper.

When my wife and I returned to our campsite, I did some measuring and ran to a local ACE Hardware at the small town we were in. I purchased some PVC pipe, unions, 90's and some screen door screen mesh. I mocked up a make shift rock guard and merely zip-tied it into place for the return drive home. I think that was the culprit because in that several hundred mile drive I had no more rocks up on the front bumper, cowling or hood of the Jeep and I detected no additional rock chips on the back of the coach.
I was determined to fabricate something that was a little more substantial and out of better products than PVC and screen over the winter but time got away from me and I decided tonight to hurry and knock out what I had envisioned in my head for the past several months.

Started with some 4"x .188" flat stock and a couple of implement clevis pins.
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Plates cut and in the mill vise to be drilled.
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I used some scrap 1" and 3/4" 304 stainless steel tubing that I had kicking around. The 3/4" will have the flaps secured to them and they will be a slip fit into the 1" square tube.
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I picked up some 1/4" wire retained clevis pins from my local Tractor Supply Store. We have a new one here locally and I needed an excuse to go in. At least that is what I told my wife.;)
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I also picked up a single ABS truck mudflap that seemed like it would do the trick quite well. It measure 24"x30" so I cut it down the middle into two 12" wide pieces then began test fitting to see how to trim them. I ended up so it hangs down right to where the Roadmaster Tow Defender stops so it should give full protection. The flaps bolted to the 3/4" stainless steel tubes and ready to weld in place.
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The flat plate bolted to the crossmember bolts which are up high enough that they can't be seen from the front as they are behind the bumper yet also are in close enough to the frame so that they will not interfere with anything when the flaps are removed.
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Pictures of both side after complete welding, painting and the brackets bolted permanently in place. Now all that I have to do is pull the clevis on each one and the flaps slide out when not needed and when hooked up to the back of the coach, simply slide the flaps into the tube mounted to the frame and slip the clevis pins in place.
Passenger side.
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Driver's side.
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View from the front after sitting it down on the tires.
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This is DEFINITELY NOT the best looking mod that I have done to my Jeep, in fact it is quite ugly if I am being honest. Unfortunately it is a necessary one if I want to protect the paint on both the rear of the coach and the front of the Jeep.

They may be ugly but they are quick and easy to install and remove which means I will actually use them. I didn't want something that was bulky and cumbersome because I knew after a while I would not use it and then back to rock chips.

I hope this may possibly give anyone else an idea to either copy of improve upon if they are experiencing anything like I mentioned above. I know many, many people never experience rock chips on their toads but they more than likely are towing fairly stock vehicles and don't have as much unprotected frontal area and may not be running as aggressive tires in which won't be flipping up as much debris. I know my aunt and uncle had towed many times even to Alaska and had experienced hardly any rock chips with their stock vehicles and even ourselves had very, very few rock chips until the past 4 years of towing our modified Jeep.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
My wife got me an awesome Father's Day gift. I had been eyeing these Mac's Black Box's for the Jeep JKU's for a while now and she let me get one. Here are a couple of pictures of my Mac's Black Box installed in the back of my 2011 Wrangler Unlimited. Nothing too exciting, well it is to me.:D

Box mounted. It hinges on the front so with the rear seat folded forward the box tilts upward allowing access to the OEM under floor storage cavity.
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Here it is with my tools and off-road accessories installed.
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It sure cleaned up the rear of my Jeep as I had my tool bags and gear placed in the back and held in place with tie-downs. The Mac's Black Box is awesome, it has adjustable/removable tie down locations on the top so I can strap down my cooler and my lawn chairs to the top.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
When my wife and I were on vacation in NW Montana a few weeks back I had my main battery short out. I installed an Optima Yellow Top from a NAPA store while I was there and decided I would replace my auxiliary battery now to match so they would be matched.
I am sure this installation was overkill but hey, overkill is under-rated. I wanted to be able to keep the handles on the batteries because they are hard to install/remove as is and without a handle it would be nearly impossible as they are shoe-horned in there as is with my dual battery tray and setup. The Optima battery handles easily slip off out of the groove, however, then I would have to store them somewhere and more importantly remember where they were when I needed them. I figured it was just easier to leave the handles on the batteries and fabricate a spacer to span across the handle.

I cut two pieces of 2" wide by 1" thick 6061 aluminum that I had on the rack each @ 4" in length. I then clamped each one in the mill vise and began machining. I started by finding center in both X and Y directions.
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Next up was to cut a slot for the handle to reside which was 1" in width and .5" deep.
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After the groove/slot in the bottom was completed I flipped the parts over to machine the top side. I was almost going to just leave them and place the hold-down across the top but then my son gave me a great idea of milling a slot that was just wide enough and deep enough for the hold down to fit in and the cut would act as a locator. Great idea son. Here I started cutting the .125" deep groove lengthwise in the block.
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Here is the top slot nearly completed. The two small tabs remaining on the sides will act as locating ribs and the hold down bracket will sit flush with them as they straddle the battery handles.
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Blocks completed.
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Test fitting them on the batteries.
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Installation completed.
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Hey I know, way overkill but I wanted to use my mill last night and this was my opportunity. Besides I guarantee it is unique.:D

Mike.
 
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