ZMotorSports 2011 JKUR Build Thread

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Here is the starting point for the engine swap portion of the build. Factory engine with mostly OEM engine bay with a little extra wiring in convoluted tubing for a few accessories. Some of that will be going away and I will relocate the couple of relays to one fenderwell or the other.


The C1, C2 and C4 connectors removed and the C100 OEM wire loom laying across the engine and removed from the fenderwell and firewall.


Most of the electrical in the engine bay disconnected as well as the ABS module and master cylinder removed from the booster and positioned to clear as the body is raised.


So at this point now I am 7.5 hours into my engine swap project so far and I feel I’m making good progress. Especially seeing as how my helper had other things going on today and wasn’t able to help me much. He did have a few minutes to help me when it came time to actually lift the body off the frame. Sometimes an extra set of eyes help to ensure something didn’t get forgotten is a good thing.
It took me about 4.5 hours to get to the point where the body was actually coming off the frame.






My son was going to test it out. Goes to show that we as guys just never seem to grow up.:rofl:


Getting ready to pull the engine and transmission by unbolting the exhaust at the manifolds.






Engine & trans out.






Pushed it outside for pressure washing.






Back inside the shop to dry off.




Old 3.8 Chrysler engine with 42RLE trans next to the new 6.2 L94 and 6L80E transmission.


Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Are you talking about the new shop build? I think I have a few isolated pictures here but my complete build is over on garagejournal.com.

Here is a link to the complete build which was done in real time starting in January 2017.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351489=zmotorsports

I have to warn you though, it is quite lengthy and detailed.

Thanks for your interest.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
I decided that while I have the body off the frame that I may as well replace my fuel pump. The OEM one has over 90k miles on it and I’ve seen them fail as early as around 100k, but then again I’ve seen them go many, many more than that also. I just thought it would be beneficial to replace it now while I have easy access. With my luck the damn thing would fail in a few months or few thousand miles and I would end up having to drop the fuel tank. I’m replacing it with an OEM Mopar fuel pump. The OEM Mopar fuel pump will easily provide up to around 500 HP so my L94 at around 420~ish will have no issues with the factory pump. Again, staying with the whole theme of keeping this build as OE as possible.


My new GM chassis wiring harness that has the EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor and vent valve for the closed EVAP monitoring system. Also on the GM chassis harness is the driver’s side downstream O2 sensor connector. The engine harness has both upstream O2 sensor connectors as well as the passenger side downstream O2 connector.


Transmission mount. I prefer to use the two bolt heavy duty GM mount that they’ve used for the past couple of decades.


I opted to purchase the Motech billet accessory brackets. Robbie really did his homework as these are nice components and will put the JK accessories right back where they were so all wiring and A/C lines will connect as intended. No custom built A/C lines are required which stays with my theme of keeping this build as OE as possible. They even accept the OEM Jeep tensioner.


I also purchased Motech’s engine mounts as they are complete bolt in and use hydraulic mounts to keep things smooth. I was planning on fabricating my own and using OEM GM mounts but when I was talking with Robbie about his billet brackets he talked me into his EZ motor mounts as well.


Here are quite a few of my OEM GM parts such as engine and transmission dipsticks and tubes as well as fasteners such as torque converter bolts, bell housing bolts, starter motor shields and bolts.


Lastly my OEM GM wiring harness. This is a factory harness for the 2010-2014 GM SUV (Denali/Escalade) vehicles.


After separating the engine from the pallet I bolted the transmission to the engine and torqued the converter bolts to the flex plate.


I assembled the Motech EZ motor mounts and bolted them to the engine leaving the actual mounts slightly loose for adjustability once the engine is sitting in the chassis.


Next I bolted the Motech billet A/C bracket to the engine.


Rear A/C compressor brackets.


A/C compressor installed and ready to install the stretch belt. Robbie really did his R&D as these brackets fit perfectly and align exactly with the harmonic balancer.


A/C stretch belt installed with the correct tool for the job.


Next up I figured I’d set the engine & trans into the chassis.








All in all I’m into the project about 10 hours at this point and the engine is bolted into the chassis. I still have a little tweaking to get it aligned before tightening everything down in its final location but I feel I’m making decent progress so far.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member

Greg

Are you not entertained?!
Admin
Oooooh, love seeing the LS swap! I had thought about a MoTech LS swap in my JK when I learned my 3.6 was having issues.
 

RockChucker

English is important. Engineering is importanter.
Location
Highland
What is the part number for that heat shield on the trans? I have a 6L90 that will be making its way into my TJ, and my exhaust runs right there. I've been unable to locate that heat shield.

Build looks sweet. Good choice.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
What is the part number for that heat shield on the trans? I have a 6L90 that will be making its way into my TJ, and my exhaust runs right there. I've been unable to locate that heat shield.

Build looks sweet. Good choice.
I have the GM part number at my shop. I will get it for you and post it. It was a bear to locate so I am happy to share it.

Mike
 

rholbrook

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville, Ut
Makes sense to drop your gears down to 4.56s and your transfer case to a 2.7:1. I am thinking that 4.56s may even be too low for that LS3. You did the math on the tire, gear ration....combo to come up with your cruising RPM though. I love how detailed you are and cant wait for you to finish it. If your son bails on you again Mike, I will come be your gofer. Your work is amazing as always. The little things you detail out is incredible.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Kamas, UT
Are you talking about the new shop build? I think I have a few isolated pictures here but my complete build is over on garagejournal.com.

Here is a link to the complete build which was done in real time starting in January 2017.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351489=zmotorsports

I have to warn you though, it is quite lengthy and detailed.

Thanks for your interest.

Mike
I just spend the better part of the day browsing that thread. Talk about an awesome "compound"! I think you set the bar pretty high there, nice job!
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
What is the part number for that heat shield on the trans? I have a 6L90 that will be making its way into my TJ, and my exhaust runs right there. I've been unable to locate that heat shield.

Build looks sweet. Good choice.
Sorry for the delay but by the time I closed up the shop last night I was spent.

The GM part # for the transmission heat shield is 25980339.

Hope that helps.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Makes sense to drop your gears down to 4.56s and your transfer case to a 2.7:1. I am thinking that 4.56s may even be too low for that LS3. You did the math on the tire, gear ration....combo to come up with your cruising RPM though. I love how detailed you are and cant wait for you to finish it. If your son bails on you again Mike, I will come be your gofer. Your work is amazing as always. The little things you detail out is incredible.
Thanks for the comments Russ.

As for the gearing, if my Jeep wasn't so heavy with all of the tools and crap I carry around I could have gotten away with 4.10's. The sweet spot for this engine is around the 1900-2100 RPM in a fairly heavy, "non-aerodynamic" vehicle (read brick) so with my calculations on a 37" tire that actually will measure closer to 35.75 inches installed height (I figured very conservatively) I came up with 2001 RPM, give or take.:D

Also, this isn't the LS3 engine, it is the L94. It is still in the LS family and is basically the exact same architecture as the LS3 but the L94 has VVT, Flexfuel capability and AFM, although I have had the AFM turned off as it really isn't beneficial in a heavy vehicle in a GEN IV engine, the GEN V engine is a different story though. The L94 is the engine that was used in the Escalades and Denali's between 2010 and 2014. They also used them in some of the 1/2 ton Silverado's along with the L9H which doesn't have AFM. The AFM lifters can be problematic at high RPM such as over 6k RPM but with the truck/SUV engines that really is a moot point because the cams and manifolds are pretty much run their course by then anyways. The LS3 is just a simple evolution of the old small block Chevy with no VVT and no AFM. Absolutely nothing wrong with the LS3 as it is a great engine and would actually be a bit easier to install into the Jeep but I wanted the low end torque of the truck/SUV engine. If I wanted the brute HP, high RPM and was looking for the simplest engine out there to run across the desert at high speeds, the LS3 would be my choice hands down. However, I wanted a little more refined and low RPM grunt that the L94 (or L9H) offer that will idle smooth at 550 RPM all day long either on road or off.

With the 2.72:1 transfer case and the low 4.02 of the 6L80 it puts me nearly at the same low ratio as the 42RLE's 2.8:1 and the 4:1 RockTrac TC so there shouldn't be much difference in low gear. The biggest difference will be the actual power to the ground. My thinking is I won't be using 4-Low nearly as much as I did before. Take our annual trips to Ouray, CO for example, many of those roads are not what I would call technical but just high altitude scenic shelf roads and the only reason I have needed 4-Low on most of them is to have the power to climb the grades as well as descending them, once we get to the lower elevations I could easily go back to 2-Hi if I had a little more power.

Again, thanks for the comments and for checking out my build Russ.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
I just spend the better part of the day browsing that thread. Talk about an awesome "compound"! I think you set the bar pretty high there, nice job!
Thank you. We are very happy with the way our new home, shop and yard have turned out but it was a shit-ton of work for the past year and a half to get it to the point I am happy with it. My wife and I feel very blessed to have been able to not only purchase the home we did but also to be able to do the yard and shop to the degree in which I had in my head.

Thanks for the comments.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Welcome back Mike! We’ve missed you around here. I had to start stalking you on garage Journal to make sure you were still around.
This is not helping my LS swap fever. Fantastic work as always Mike. This will be one of the sweetest rigs in Utah for sure.
Thanks for the comments guys, I am very flattered. It will definitely be somewhat unique to our area as I know many who have talked about doing an LS swap into their JK/JKU but no one that I actually know of personally. I know a few guys that have the Hemi's around here but every one of them are having heating issues and a couple of anxiously awaiting to see how mine turns out.

As for the national Jeep club that we belong to that revolves around RV's, the FMCA 4-Wheelers, there are a few more Hemi's and one LS3 powered JK's/JKU's that I know of in that group but most all are merely trailer queens/trail rigs. Several are more of a buggy with tin interior and dash. Only a few of them are street legal and driven on the street from that group, although most of the club's JK/JKU's are still running stock powertrains with suspension and axle mods so more like what mine is. The full-on high HP V8 Jeeps in the club are few and far between but those guys have easily over $100k in most of them as they are full-on custom builds.

I hope mine will be somewhat unique in not only the engine/transmission choice but also in the degree in which it was built and the fact that it will continue to be my daily driver/weekend wheeler. I've tried to pride myself on my workmanship and hope that it will continue show on this part of my build as well by keeping it as OE as possible and a very clean installation. My theory is when an engine swap is done properly it should look like it rolled off of the assembly line with that engine.

Thanks again for the comments guys, I really appreciate them.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
I apologize that there are no new pictures or nothing really to report from last night's work. It was pretty boring and I had several people come by the shop as I had all of my original parts for sale. Last night guys showed up to buy my PSC XD2 steering gearbox, engine and transmission and Rock Krawler 7075 HD tie rod as well as I gave my MBRP cat-back exhaust system away to someone in our club.

I was however, able to actually determine where I wanted my transmission temperature sending unit located, drop the pan, machine a 1/8" NPT bung and TIG weld the bung to the transmission pan before installing it for the last time with a new filter and gasket. I was then able to bolt the engine to the chassis for the last time after getting it adjusted to the proper location for clearances as well as driveline position.

I laid out the chassis harness and determined where I was going to mount my EVAP canister and run my GM chassis wire harness which I hope to get completed tonight.

Mike
 

RockChucker

English is important. Engineering is importanter.
Location
Highland
Thanks for the part number. Are you going to have the trans tuned? Like I mentioned, I'm putting a 6L90 (basically the same as your 6L80) in my TJ. I'll be running a stand alone controller and putting it behind a Gen III engine, but tuning wise the trans will be the same. I've been doing a lot of research and talked with a guy here local in Sandy. When I get mine in (hopefully early spring, but we'll see), I'll essentially have 3 trans shifting profiles. First will be like a stock GM (with maybe altered shift points slightly so it doesn't want to jump right to OD as fast as possible) that is smooth as butter. Second will be a "tow/haul" profile that will hold gears longer and shift quicker for when I want to really get after it. Third will be tap shift that is full manual. My contact said he can set the parameters as such that the trans will only stay in the gear that is displayed. It will be a full manual sequential shift trans that should shift on command. I'm most excited for this aspect. Hopefully what I've built in my head and we have discussed will match. I can get you in touch with him if you would like. He did the tune on my current engine and 4L80 combo and it is great.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Thanks for the part number. Are you going to have the trans tuned? Like I mentioned, I'm putting a 6L90 (basically the same as your 6L80) in my TJ. I'll be running a stand alone controller and putting it behind a Gen III engine, but tuning wise the trans will be the same. I've been doing a lot of research and talked with a guy here local in Sandy. When I get mine in (hopefully early spring, but we'll see), I'll essentially have 3 trans shifting profiles. First will be like a stock GM (with maybe altered shift points slightly so it doesn't want to jump right to OD as fast as possible) that is smooth as butter. Second will be a "tow/haul" profile that will hold gears longer and shift quicker for when I want to really get after it. Third will be tap shift that is full manual. My contact said he can set the parameters as such that the trans will only stay in the gear that is displayed. It will be a full manual sequential shift trans that should shift on command. I'm most excited for this aspect. Hopefully what I've built in my head and we have discussed will match. I can get you in touch with him if you would like. He did the tune on my current engine and 4L80 combo and it is great.
I have already had a tune uploaded that not only tweaked the engine performance but also has slightly firmer shifts than the OEM program. I also will have the Tap shift function along with gear-lock with mine, plus I love the RPM match shifting that this transmission has. It will be especially nice off-road on an obstacle but don't dare comment too much until I have more first hand experience off-road with this transmission. I have quite a bit of normal driving experience with this trans but just not off-road. I will be putting a small toggle switch on my dash or column in which I will use for the tap shift function once the selector is pulled back into the manual gate. I could have gone and purchased a 2012 or newer console and shifter to get the bumpshift but the shifter I have with a toggle switch will provide the exact same functionality. For most of the driving I will more than likely find the auto mode more than adequate but I do look forward to really seeing this transmission in action off road as I think that is where the gear spacing and tap shift feature will really shine. I think the 6L80/6L90 are the hidden secret of these powertrains, probably every bit as much of a benefit as the power output of the LS itself. I also purchased an HP Tuner so I can play with shift points, tune, etc but after being in one that is similar to the program I had uploaded to mine, I may not mess with it as I was quite impressed as it was.

Thanks for the input.

Mike
 
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