ZMotorSports 2011 JKUR Build Thread

I am new here but thought I would throw up some pictures of my latest Jeep build. It is not real time as I have owned it now for almost two years.

I bought the Jeep with only 3208 miles on the odometer and commenced building my "Dream Jeep". This is my daily driver and weekend wheeler.

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On lift just before sitting it down with the 4" BDS Suspension Lift and 35" KM2 tires/ATX Crawl wheels.
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Backed outside the shop after just barely sitting her on the ground with new lift and tires/wheels.
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More to come as I dig through the pictures. Also pictured here is the Warn Rockcrawler bumper/Powerplant combination that I purchased used just to get me by until I could fabricated my own bumpers.

Mike.
 
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Good call on the axle housing upgrade, Mike!

The new shop looks amazing... I'm impressed with all the room and the lift!

Thanks Greg. The extra room I have with this shop sure is nice. I had the Ammco 10k pound lift in my last shop for the past 6 years now, just brought it with me when we moved. Makes work sooooo much nicer under vehicles.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Here are a few pictures from mine and my wife's trip to Capitol Reef NP last week.

Campground was a little more overgrown than expected and the sites were much narrower than we were told when we made the reservations but the two campgrounds we usually stay at were already booked and this was the last option on such short notice.
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One of the days we took a drive over to Goblin Valley and did some hiking among the hoodoos.
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On another day we drove over to Boulder on the scenic Hwy 12 and took the Burr Trail back to Torrey and saw these mountain sheep relaxing in the crevices of the canyon walls.
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On Friday the wife and I took off on the Great Western Trail out of Torrey and took in some more off-roading.
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All in all a great little getaway with the wife for a few days of relaxation.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Very nice Mike, the new shop looks great, so does the build! I don't see the buggy in the shop, did you send it down the road?

Thank you for the comments.

As for the sandrail, yep she's owned by someone else now. About four years ago now we sold the sand quads and sandrail as we were having so much fun with the Jeep. Both my son and my wife had commented about enjoying Jeeping more so I figured it was a waste of money having the sand toys sit there and collect dust. There are times I miss that rush of blasting around a bowl at Mach 1 in the rail or down the 300' dragstrip with it but I sure don't miss the high maintenance of a race car.

Thanks again for the comments.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I almost forgot about this thread so I figured I had better do a little updating.

I decided do a little upgrading to my steering system and seeing that I am only running 35” tires and seriously doubt I will ever step up to 37’s, I wanted something that mainly addressed the weak sector shaft but if I can get a bit better steering performance at the same time it’s a bonus. For my situation I feel this PSC upgraded gearbox will be the best bang for the buck and give me exactly what I am looking for.

To compare spec’s, the difference between an OEM Jeep JK/JKU steering gearbox and the PSC are as follows; the OEM has a 70mm piston and the PSC has an 80mm piston. The OEM sector shaft is a scant 35mm in diameter vs the PSC’s 45mm sector shaft, that is 30% larger. Basically the PSC gearbox closely resembles the Dodge 2500/3500 steering gearbox.

So there is the “why” behind my upgrade now let’s get to the actual upgrade. One more upgrade I thought I would do while I have the system open and fluid drained is to add a power steering cooler to the return line. I purchased a Derale 12” oil cooler a few years ago for a different project but never used it. I will be looking for a place to mount that while I’m under the Jeep.

Here is the PSC Big Bore XD that will reside under my 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.
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Before spinning any wrenches, I used my oil evacuation tank and pulled as much fluid out of the reservoir that I could. I figured this would be less “potential” fluid that would end up on my floor.

I removed my JKS steering gearbox support system then removed the steering column connection (where I’m pointing) then I can focus on removing the actual gearbox.
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Here are the two power steering lines that need to be removed. The one I am pointing to is the pressure line.
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I have collected a pretty good assortment of plastic caps and plugs over the years for situations like this. These are o-ring fittings so I capped each one after removing from the gearbox to minimize the mess and oil running down the frame.
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OEM gearbox out and on the bench next to the new PSC unit ready to go under the Jeep.
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Before closing up the shop for the night I cut the mounting block off of the frame from my JKS gearbox support as well as a tab from beefed up trac bar bracket. I blended the ground weld and sprayed some Eastwood Extreme chassis paint on the area to allow it to dry overnight.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I sold our first gen Roadmaster Sterling towbar a few months ago and I recently purchased Roadmaster's new Night Hawk towbar. I figured I had better get it setup and ready to go for the RVing season.

Jeep pulled into the shop behind my truck for mockup.
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Upon attempting the first connection the first thing that I noticed was that the end connectors are approx. .025” wider than the ones on my old Sterling so I used the mill to remove that .025” off of one side of each block.
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Removed from milling vise and deburred.
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This towbar came equipped with a 7-pole plug at the RV side and a 6-pole round at the toad end. I have my Jeep equipped with a 4-pole round electrical connector so I swapped the 6-pole on the toad end with a 4-pole. This towbar has strip LED’s along the arms that illuminate when the running lights are turned on. Seeing as how we travel at night on many occasions I view this as a safety feature.
Connected, electrical complete and all ready for many miles of flat-towing the Jeep behind our coach.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I finished up the PSC gearbox installation last night and started coming up with a plan for mounting the Derale oil cooler.
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I think I have a plan for mounting the power steering cooler.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I only had about an hour to work in the shop last night so I fabbed up the mounting brackets for my power steering oil cooler.

Here’s what I started with, a 3” long piece of 2.250” diameter x .120” wall tubing that I cut in half lengthwise to saddle over the 2” diameter cross member and two pieces of 1/4” flat strap.
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Saddles welded to tabs after drilling and tapping the tabs to match the coolers bolt pattern.
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Mounted to the oil cooler.
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Oil cooler mocked into position.
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Bead blasted, painted and ready for installation.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I finished up my PSC Big Bore XDII power steering gearbox and steering cooler last night. I test drove it and I am very pleased with the results after only a short 16-18 mile drive. Tomorrow our Jeep club is going on our monthly club run so I’ll see how it does. The run won’t be technical but I should get a decent feel for it being aired down.

Oil cooler is fastened in place, that’s not going anywhere.
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I reinstalled the engine coolant reservoir back into place and here you can see the gearbox nestled down between the engine coolant reservoir and windshield washer fluid reservoir.
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Another shot of the oil cooler fastened to the crossmember.
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Shot of my Jeep after the road test and cleaning up mess/putting tools away.
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The video of the installation is uploaded to my YouTube channel for anyone who wants to check it out.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
While I had the Jeep in the shop on the lift I thought I would address one “potential” issue. On an RV site a while back there was a thread where a guy had his Jeep JK come loose from his coach due to a towbar connection point failure.

On the underside of the Jeep JK frame is a sub-frame box welded perpendicular to the frame rail at the front. This box is constructed of 10-gauge steel and where the manufacturer mounted a plastic skid. This sub-frame is what I connected my tow bar crossmember to that I fabricated about 7 years ago. When I fabricated my front winch bumper I tied it directly into the frame rails where the winch would pull as well as my recovery points. At that time I also welded a couple of tabs connecting those sub-frame boxes to the frame rails. I routinely inspect my Jeep’s tow bar connection points, crossmember, safety chain connection points as well as hitch on the coach to ensure safety and I have especially been keeping an eye on it since seeing the failure on the internet. If memory serves he was running a Blue Ox towbar mount.
While I was looking things over with the Jeep on the lift last week I came up with a plan to tie my tow bar crossmember directly to the frame just to ensure I never have a similar issue.

Cutting a couple pieces of 1/4” plate.
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Doing layout on materials.
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I had to put a slight bend in the plate to allow enough room for the fasteners to clear.
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I then had to get a bit creative and clamp the pieces to an angle plate while tack welding the pieces together.
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Mocked the components up for fitment.
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While mocking up the parts I realized I needed to remove a very small amount for clearance. Rather than grinding the small amount off I opted to run the edge through the vertical bandsaw. I love this Birmingham vertical bandsaw and how easily it is to control and remove such small amounts.

Here I removed a sliver of .015”.
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I’ve mentioned this before but I subscribe to the theory of the 7 P’s; Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. When I built my shop I made sure to put several 50-amp receptacles around the shop so I could merely roll my welders around and plug it to different areas without having to run extension cords, so glad I did. I moved my welder over to the other side of the shop and plugged in so I could tack the brackets together while bolted in place on the Jeep frame.
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I then moved back to the fabrication table and finished welding the brackets together.
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I beadblasted and painted the brackets before final installation.
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One thing I did during mock up was to insert some .045” shims under the brackets at the front frame points so upon final assembly with the shims removed and tightened the brackets would preload a small amount tying the towbar crossmember to the frame.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Well I've been away from the forum for a while and I really haven't done anything new to the Jeep for most of 2018 other that drive the hell out of it and we wheeled quite a bit. My wife and I have attended about 4 Jeep rallies over the summer, one of which we hosted in Ouray, CO in August and the Jeep has performed flawlessly other than the same old complaint I've had since day one, low on power. Well I have been contemplating and planning a power upgrade for over 4 years now but with us moving two years ago and then having to put in a yard and build a new shop the power upgrade project was postponed. However, this past spring I again began planning out the build and decided to start collecting parts and pieces for the upgrade.

I will be removing the anemic 3.8 liter V6 from my 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and will be installing a ... 6.2 liter all aluminum Chevrolet LS V8 engine along with the 6L80 automatic transmission. This combination has been one of my favorites for a while now and I have been working through the EPA bullshit in order to get it to pass the strict emissions laws here in Utah. Hands down the number one reason for this engine/transmission swap is drivability, everything else is second to that. The new Jeeps don't impress me, I have this chassis/suspension built the way I want it and would like to keep this Jeep on the road (and trails) for at least another 15 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.

Those of you who have followed along on my threads or posts have probably figured out that I am a GM guy moreso than any other brand, with a HEAVY mixture of Jeep in there.:cool: I've had them all but prefer the bowtie, what can I say. Nearly from day one with my Jeep JKUR after lifting it and the initial build I have dreamed of having some LS V8 power but I also wanted to keep the Jeep dependable, reliable and have ALL of the creature comforts working and not settle for just another V8 swap like so many have done and have all kinds of idiosyncrasies or quirks about it. I have merely settled for the anemic power levels on the road because it wheels so great and has taken on anything and everything I have thrown at it off-road. It is the on-road performance that really has bothered me. There are times when it can't get out of its own way, even with the 5.38 gears on the small 35" tires. Sad that 35" tires are now considered small~ish. I have also informed my wife that now that I have the power to go a bit bigger on tires I will be stepping to 37" tires after the swap as my 35" BFG KO2's are nearing the end of their usable tread. The tire has been a fantastic tire and I have loved them both on and off road. My Jeep now has 92,500 miles on the odometer and these tires have been on for 48k miles now and flat towed another ~18k miles over the past 4 years so I am very happy with the life I have gotten and especially with their performance both on and off road. I could probably get another 6-10 out of them if I wanted but by the time I get the swap done and get some miles on it and then purchase tires I will probably have another 1-2k miles on these. My wife was frustrated with me wanting to go up in tire size, probably because she is a bit vertically challenged and has a hard time getting in now but it should only lift it about an inch or so which I think she can handle. She was worried that with the larger tires I would want to do more extreme trails but I insured her that I am not putting larger tires on to do more aggressive trails, merely to get over the obstacles on the trails we are already running just a bit easier and less dragging on my skids and control arms. I'm not looking to do more technical trails than we already run.

I have been so focused on the house, shop and yard over the past two years that the Jeep has been put on the back burner as far as upgrades so I have just been driving it and wheeling it and enjoying it but this past summer I decided to get serious about upping the power and started doing much more homework diving into EPA regulations as well as wiring and trying to anticipate integration issues.

I have been wrenching for over 30 years and have done many engine swaps over those 3-decades but this one is a bit more interesting due to the CAN network system and keeping everything EPA compliant. This will also end up being the most expensive engine swap I have ever done which is largely due to keeping everything EPA compliant. The days of merely dropping in a small block Chevrolet engine and TH400 transmission, hooking up a fuel line and distributor are pretty much gone.:rolleyes:

This past summer I started collecting parts & pieces for the swap and knew exactly what years and what particular engine or engines would be most viable. I determined I wanted a 2010-2014 LS engine in order to meet the USEPA guidelines for engine swap. I contemplated the 5.3, the 6.0 as well as the 6.2 liter engines. The 5.3 would obviously be a great deal better than the 3.8 V6 that is currently in my Jeep but I doubted I would be happy for very long being only 1.5 liters larger and my Jeep is on the heavy side at 6k pounds. I then thought the 6.0 which would work as it was designed for heavy hauling in the GM trucks if you didn't get the Duramax. This engine will put out easily 350~ish HP and around 385 lb/ft of torque and haul my Jeep around beautifully. Plus with the iron block be very durable and withstand the extreme temperatures better here in Utah. All the while however, I kept thinking the 6.2 liter would be the cat's meow. Again, my wonderful and loving wife told me not to settle so the 6.2 LS engine it is. The LS3 is a great engine which was available in the Camaro's and Corvette's but I wanted the low end torque of the 6.2 LS truck/SUV engine with its taller intake (longer runners) and VVT (Variable Valve Timing). The LS3 would also be a bit better fit seeing as the intake is lower but the truck engine will fit just fine, plus the LS3 is harder to find as a lift out and brings a premium in new form. The entire GM package (6.2 LS engine/6L80 transmission) is only about 45 pounds heavier than the iron block 3.8 V6 and 42RLE transmission that is currently in my Jeep so it shouldn't affect suspension or handling at all, hell I think my winch was heavier than that. The 6.2 LS truck/SUV engine will put out just over 400 hp and nearly 420 lb/ft of torque in stock trim with OEM GM tune so that is what we are going with, although I will more than likely tweak the tune and probably shift points down the road. After a little bit of searching for a low mileage lift out engine and transmission I found a 6L80 transmission with 38k miles on it from a 2012 GMC Denali but the engine was already spoken for, damnit!!! About two week later I got a tip and after a few phone calls I landed me a brand new L94 crate engine from GM, which is no longer available other than a long block.

Introducing my new 6.2 L94 that will reside in my 2011 Jeep JKUR.
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Here is the 6L80 transmission from a 2012 GMC Denali and the NP241J from a 2008 Jeep Sahara with the 2.72:1 low ratio.
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For those wishing to upgrade the power of their JK, there is quite a bit of information out there and several viable options but after my research this is the direction I chose to go as I am really not impressed with the 3.8 or even the newer Pentastar 3.6 for that matter. I also don't really like the Hemi option as we've wheeled with several over the years and that was never really one of my choices.

I will try to keep this updated as the project progresses.
 
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mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
This'll be SWEET! Having had a 3.6 JKU, I'm thinking you're RIGHT on with this mod. Anxious to see how it turns out. A 6.0L or 6.2L, 6 speed auto and SuperDuty axles with 37-38" tires would be how I'd build another JKU. Are you buying a standalone harness or reworking a stock unit or ????
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I tore my slightly used 6L80 down so I could send off my ECM and TCM back to Robbie @ Motech so he could program them and sinc them together as I don't have GM TIS available to me. TIS is a Technical Information System that GM uses to upload programming to a GM vehicle. It is also necessary to have the VCN (Vehicle Calibration Numbers) match as that is part of the emissions system.

After receiving my ECM and TCM back from Motech, I reinstalled the TCM back into my 6L80. After inquiring about shift parameters and a mild tune, he informed me that he did in fact have a tune that would firm up the transmission shifts slightly and add a few more horses to the engine without compromising the OEM tune or messing with any of the protection modes.
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Here is the TCM being installed back onto the valve body and everything torqued to the proper 71 in/lbs.
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Transmission pan cleaned and ready to temporarily install. I won't button it up permanently until after it is in the Jeep so I can see where I want to run my transmission temperature gauge. I know the ECM monitors that and I will be able to access it via the Aeroforce gauge I will be running but there are a few things I like to monitor old school with an analog gauge and transmission temperature is one of them. I can watch it easily while wheeling without trying to scan through parameters trying to find it.
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Valve body installed in the transmission along with the connector in the body.
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I then removed the OEM GM transmission/transfer case adapter, replaced the transmission output seal while I was there and installed my Advance Adapters adapter that was designed to adapt the 6L80 to an Atlas transfer case as the Atlas and the NP241J TC.
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I also installed the heat shield near the electrical connector on the transmission. I had asked the salvage yard for it but they said it didn't have one, I called BS on it but came to the conclusion I wasn't walking out with it. Funny thing is that little heat shield was probably the hardest part to acquire. GM could not find the part number for it and when I googled part #'s they said they were discontinued. It took me several weeks to locate a good part # and then my GM dealership told me that they were backordered so it took about 5 weeks for it to arrive. I know I could have just fabricated one but like I mentioned earlier I want to keep this as OE as possible and look like a GM under the hood and in the chassis.
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While I had the afternoon to myself I went ahead and replaced the input and output seals on the NP241J transfer case, then installed my Tom Woods output yolk that will accept the 1350 rear driveshaft that I will be running.
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New input seal installed.
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Lastly, here is my hydro-assist ram and ported gearbox that I got back from West Texas Off-road a few months ago. I will install this along with my front gears prior to the engine swap.
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My goal was originally to have this done before the end of 2018 so I can go into 2019 ready to enjoy the new year and play but I think I missed it by a week or two. I've ordered my 37" tires on a Black Friday sale but will not install them until after the engine swap is complete. I have also purchased some new wheels earlier in the year. My wife wasn't too happy about the wheel purchase but I told her the ole' girl is getting a new drivetrain so I wanted to give her a bit of a facelift to go along with it. I think new wheels wrapped by the new 37" tires will introduce the whole thing nicely into it's new life in our stable.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
This'll be SWEET! Having had a 3.6 JKU, I'm thinking you're RIGHT on with this mod. Anxious to see how it turns out. A 6.0L or 6.2L, 6 speed auto and SuperDuty axles with 37-38" tires would be how I'd build another JKU. Are you buying a standalone harness or reworking a stock unit or ????

Thank you. The 6.0 would be easily enough power for a 6k pound Jeep but I stumbled across this new 6.2 L94 crate engine and just couldn't pass it up. I think 400+ HP is probably way overkill for me but what the hell, overkill is under-rated.:D It would have been easier to fit an LS3 into the JK but I like the low end torque these truck/SUV engines put out. It has over 350 ft/lbs of torque right off idle and will idle at 550 RPM all day long so off-roading whether running the fire roads in Colorado or crawling in Moab or cruising across the country this powertrain should feel right at home. Plus it should still flat-tow beautifully behind our coach when traveling.

As for the wiring, I am keeping this all as OE as possible. The engine harness is a factory GM engine harness along with the chassis harness for the GM closed EVAP system. In order to keep USEPA compliant it has to have a certified EPA powertrain and by moving everything from the donor vehicle over to my Jeep it will in fact keep that certification. I am also not impressed with Chrysler's EVAP system on the Jeep as it is quite primitive so I wanted to keep the GM feedback monitored EVAP system anyways.

I did however, purchase a small integration harness from Motech that will create the "handshake" between the GM ECM/TCM and the Jeep BCM. It uses the interior CANbus network and will act as a bridge or translator between the GM and Chrysler networks. Things like keeping my PRNDL active on the dash, HVAC system functioning properly as well as all of my adaptives will function as Chrysler intended. Robbie has really blazed the trail with this technology and I want my Jeep to feel, drive and perform like a Denali or Escalade with a Jeep body on it. My goal throughout this entire planning process has been drivability.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Next I tore my newly acquired and low mileage NP241J transfer case down to swap the input gear with the Advance Adapters 32-spline gear from the Chrysler 23-spline.
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New 32-spline input gear installed into planetary and ready to clean case and reassemble.
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Ready for a small bead of sealant and final assembly.
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Sealant applied after cleaning case halves.
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I dropped the front axle out from under my Jeep to begin the gear swap and hydraulic assist modification. I am removing my 5.38 gears that I have been running for the past 7 years and nearly 90k miles and replacing them with 4.56 gears. This will put my cruising RPM right around 2k RPM @ 70mph which will be perfect for the LS engine.
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I took the plasma cutter and removed the track bar mount from my ProRock 44 in preparation to weld on my raised track bar mount from Artec Industries which will hold my hydraulic steering ram.

I added some additional gussets to the track bar mount while I was at it even though Artec has designed their bracket stout enough to handle the forces applied by the hydraulics. A little extra protection.
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I also added some skids under my lower control arm mounts.
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Added a couple of gussets to the track bar mount on the axle which will also hold the hydraulic steering ram.
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My 5.38’s removed. They served me well for the past 90k plus driven miles and probably close to another 35-40k flat towed miles.
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New 4.56 gears being prepped for installation. I recommend using a mill file or stone to make certain there are no burrs or nicks to impede the seating of components.
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Carrier being prepped to accept the new ring gear and new bearings.
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New larger pinion (4.56) on the left and the smaller (5.38) pinion that I just removed on the right.
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New ring gear left, old ring gear right.
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Case thoroughly cleaned and prepped for test fitting with new pinion races installed.
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Ring gear painted and ready for initial fitment test.
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The initial test fit was close but I ended up removing a few thousandths of pinion shim and bingo, great gear pattern. Also shifted a few shims around to get my backlash right at .007”.
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Cover installed after pinion preload set and everything torqued to proper specs.
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I had to relocate my power steering oil cooler that I installed earlier this year when I installed my PSC XD2 gearbox. It appeared to be awfully close to the new path of my flipped drag link so I opted to move it to the small crossmember just behind the bumper.
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After relocating my oil cooler I machined a couple of new 3” bumpstops for the front to keep my drag link from contacting the frame.
After machining the OD and facing I put them in the mill vise one at a time to counterbore the holes for socket head capscrews as well as machined a slot to the underside to capture the straps that I made as coil spring retainers.
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While I already had a mess in the machining area of the shop I figured I would ream out the right side steering knuckle in order to accept the flipped drag link.
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Knuckles installed and sleeve pressed in place for the flipped drag link.
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Tabs welded onto the Artec raised heavy duty track bar bracket for the steering ram.
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Steering ram and hoses installed.
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I’ve changed the hose routing on the one pointing straight up. I’ve added 90-degree elbows to each to lay the hoses down in order to avoid rubbing under droop or compression.
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Moved onto the rear axle.

New 4.56’s on the left and old 5.38’s on the right.
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Ensuring there are no burrs to impede fully seating the parts together.
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Only took me four combinations to land on the perfect wear pattern and .006” backlash.
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Beautiful looking pattern on both drive and coast side.
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After getting the rear axle completed I wanted to tweak my hydraulic assist steering a bit. I noticed the pressure seemed a bit low when I drove it the other night. When up against a curb it would bind up rather easily so I thought maybe it was up against the pressure relief valve a bit premature so I removed the valve assembly, removed one .033” shim and stretched the spring a bit. That’s all she needed. Now I can put a tire up against the curb and actually push the Jeep away from the curb slightly and make it all the way to the stops. I went just a little bit as I didn’t want to bump my pressure too high, just enough to not open the pressure relief so soon.
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I had driven it a few times to put the gears through a few heat/cool cycles before getting it up to highway speeds. Everything is running perfectly and @ 65 MPH she’s smooth as smooth and nice and quiet. Ready for the next phase of the buildup.

I had put about 300 miles on the axles/steering before actually tearing the Jeep down for the engine transplant.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Here is the starting point for the engine swap portion of the build. Factory engine with mostly OEM engine bay with a little extra wiring in convoluted tubing for a few accessories. Some of that will be going away and I will relocate the couple of relays to one fenderwell or the other.
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The C1, C2 and C4 connectors removed and the C100 OEM wire loom laying across the engine and removed from the fenderwell and firewall.
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Most of the electrical in the engine bay disconnected as well as the ABS module and master cylinder removed from the booster and positioned to clear as the body is raised.
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So at this point now I am 7.5 hours into my engine swap project so far and I feel I’m making good progress. Especially seeing as how my helper had other things going on today and wasn’t able to help me much. He did have a few minutes to help me when it came time to actually lift the body off the frame. Sometimes an extra set of eyes help to ensure something didn’t get forgotten is a good thing.
It took me about 4.5 hours to get to the point where the body was actually coming off the frame.
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My son was going to test it out. Goes to show that we as guys just never seem to grow up.:rofl:
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Getting ready to pull the engine and transmission by unbolting the exhaust at the manifolds.
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Engine & trans out.
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Pushed it outside for pressure washing.
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Back inside the shop to dry off.
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Old 3.8 Chrysler engine with 42RLE trans next to the new 6.2 L94 and 6L80E transmission.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 
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