175 vs. 210 mig welder

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Well I know there has been a bunch of welding threads latley, but none really answered my question. I'm gonna build my own frame/buggy chassis will a 175 do the job with some to spare, or will I need to jump to 210? The money is the obvious difference.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
175 is more than enough machine for just about anything we'd be doing on our rigs. With that said, talk to the welding shops and see if you can test drive a 175 vs. a 210...you'll see that the extra $$ is worth it. The 210 welds very nice (the 175 does as well, but not like the 210).
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
The 210 is worth the extra money and the 251 is worth the extra money over the 210. The ability to burn .045 duel sheild on heavier steel is something you will want as soon as you try it. 210 is borderline at the very top of it's range 251 will have no problem.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
I was gonna mention the 251 but decided since he's trying to justify the 210, I doubt he'd be able to justify the 251 :p

I loved our 251, a very sweet machine indeed :cool:
 

reddman

Fabber
Location
SL,UT
I use a 251 every day building at least one chassis a week (2 this week! :eek: ) and I love it, but for smaller scale production, I honestly think the 175 is plenty of machine for most everything.

I used to have an Esab 250 amp machine, it has 3 power settings (low, med, high) and 8 smaller adjustments in each power level. I have NEVER taken it out of low when working on tubing, frames, axles, etc. 250 amps is a sh*tload of power, and is really only suited to really thick stuff. Thicker than anything any of our type of vehicles need.

The main benefit of a larger machine for fabricating (imho) is duty cycle. Most single phase welders are only meant to run around 20% duty cycle, which means at full power, 2 minutes of welding in any 10 minute period, to give the machine time to dissapate the heat. Welding less than full power, obviously the duty cycle increases. So if you are trying to weld for hours on end near the max output with a smaller welder, there is a good chance it will overheat and shut off, or worse. For most everyone's garage, that's not a big problem, cause how many hours a week are you really gonna be welding. If its gonna see long periods of use, then you need a bigger one, but it sounds like a 175 would work for your situation.

Oh and definitely get gas, not flux core. C25(Ar75) baby!

Anyways, I gotta get back to work and help Tin Bender SAS and link the front of his yota.

-Redd
 
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reddman

Fabber
Location
SL,UT
Oh and I gotta say .035 wire is the sh*t. .045 needs to run too hot to be able to weld 1/8" and .035 can do pretty much anything .045 can. It's the most versatile wire size imo.

(edited for spelling)
 
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bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
reddman said:
Oh and I gotta say .035 wire is the sh*t. .045 needs to run to hot to be able to weld 1/8" and .035 can do pretty much anything .045 can. It's the most versatile wire size imo.

I was not talking about solid 045. I was saying 045 Duel Shield which 035 solid can not even come close to matching except maybe flat position in spray transfer (you need to buy anouther gas bottle though to spray solid wire, the duel shield runs best with C25). The duel sheild can be used on 1/4" effectively but you are right when you say it is not needed for anything you would ever do to a 4X4. The reason I love the DS is the ease with which you can go vert up even with incredible amounts of heat.
 

bobmed

- - - -
Location
sugarliberty
I've got the miller 251 and like it alot.
The 175 is a good machine too for alot of stuff.
I got the 251 mostly for duty cycle.
I use 035 solid and C25 but I also have a roll of flux core for breezy days
in the driveway.
 

reddman

Fabber
Location
SL,UT
bobdog said:
I was not talking about solid 045. I was saying 045 Duel Shield which 035 solid can not even come close to matching except maybe flat position in spray transfer (you need to buy anouther gas bottle though to spray solid wire, the duel shield runs best with C25). The duel sheild can be used on 1/4" effectively but you are right when you say it is not needed for anything you would ever do to a 4X4. The reason I love the DS is the ease with which you can go vert up even with incredible amounts of heat.
I've heard a lot about dual sheild, but have never tried it. What are the differences in how it welds (other than what you already stated). I have heard its very smooth acting and the slag peels off as you go (i think, i get processes confused sometimes). Does it spatter much like regular flux core?

-Redd
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
reddman said:
I've heard a lot about dual sheild, but have never tried it. What are the differences in how it welds (other than what you already stated). I have heard its very smooth acting and the slag peels off as you go (i think, i get processes confused sometimes). Does it spatter much like regular flux core?

-Redd

It runs like spray transfer, only it is suitable for out of position. It is almost like the slag keeps the puddle in place. It is nothing like gasless flux core. There is no splatter and you can usually just brush the slag off with your glove. Really only usefull for heavy steel but I use it quite a bit on 1/4". Runs super hot, a backhand guard is a must for any beads much longer than 3" or so. Beads are wide and a lot of metal is deposited quick.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
thanks for the info guys it looks like 175 should suit me fine probably the hobart 180
 
Big difference I think is the operating amps. I believe the 175 operates at 140 amps, the 210 at something like 160. and that is where you feel it. the numbers represent peak amps. I bought the Millermatic DVI machine and love it. A little more punch than the 175, not quite a 210 but you can't beat the price. It welds like butter I feel like.. I had a great little Lincolm 135 machine that I got with some trade that I loved but even with flux core was weak. I sold that complete for $500 so for the $1100 pricetag of the DVI I figured I paid $600 for a brand new welder that could do everything I could do before... Hope it helps.. Anyway, a 175 will do but if you can afford it go bigger. The key with smaller machines that are close to their max range is prep, cleaning metal removing paint and making sure that everything you do is quality, not as much room for error.
 

78mitsu

Registered User
I use a Hobart 110 with gas and 035 wire, I can weld 1/4" in a single pass as long as the weld isn't longer then about 8" then it'll hit the duty cycle of the machine. I did have to add a 20A plug and directwire a 20A circiut to the panel in the house to do it.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
When we built the trailer for the charity in Park City, we mostly used a MM175. We ran that thing CONSTANTLY for at least 12 hours. It hit duty cycle a few times, but it never really had a break all day long.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Right now I'm using a lincoln 135 to tack everything into place. I will buy or borrow a miller 210 I decided when I have the money:)
 
i would go with the 210, it all ready has the separte conection's for the spool gun and a hook up for differnt gas, well at least the one my friend got was like that, i was impressed. i am not sure if the 175 has that for an option but the extra money for alot of more of a machine is worth it. i would rather say "ya i can weld that for you with my welder'' not " i dont know if my machine can handle that " why question it, spend the money once and right, jason.
 
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