3/4 eliptical suspension

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pokeyYJ

Guest
Going Going I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanx check out my other thread about the magnetic suspension and I'll be back after pulling those out.
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
the difference between your two suspensions is the way a aprung over vehicle manipulates the springs as opposed to a sprung under vehicle.


if you are sprung over you have a lot more leverage it seems. In a sprung over config the vehicle always flexes better. you might want to go for the spring over on some 2.5" lift springs if I were you. It is a lot of extra money into a rig but worth it in the long run. Removing that last spring will help flex but remember the more a spring flexes the shorter it's lifespan becomes (I speak as one who kills lots of spring packs). you will gain some flex but remember that costing little to do, it shortens the lifespan of a spring and may eventually lead to sagging or total spring failure. If it were my vehicle, I would pull the bottom spring because I value performance over longevity.


consider yourself informed!!:D
 
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pokeyYJ

Guest
Thanx for the input. I went and pulled the bottom leaf out of the front springs last night. This seemed to lower my front about an inch so I put my lift shakles back on. The ride seems much smoother and I'm not terribly worried about spring life because I have been looking into getting some OME springs a little later in the game. I still would like to know if anybody has had any exerience with the teflon linings that you can put inbetween the leafs.
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
Flex Sucks. Lockers are cool!!!
Are UROC rig only flexes like a 490 on a 30 degree ramp. Its lockers that keep it alive (and my partners led foot.)
On my cj 8 I run 4" SUA black diamond springs with the bottem leaf taken out. After this summer the lift springs have settled to about maybe a 2" lift. Running your springs like this helps out with real world flex it just wears them out hella quick.
Just rember ramp flex dosent mean crap on the trail. Traction does!
 

xjc

I give up :(
Location
Ogden Utah
sorry, I am getting in late in the game here but you mentioned that you had bad driveline vibes when you put he shackles on the rear,

I may be insulting your intelegence but this is one thing I had to learn the hard way too.

SHIMS, when you put on shackles you screw your pinion angel up bad and you need shims to straiten it back out. I needed 3 degree shims to compensate for the 2" shackles on my XJ. It just takes a little trig and some trial an error to get it right. (doing the calculations before hand will cut down on the trial and error area)

These trialer rigs and the samis that cant get over 40 mph don't worry about this much because they don't drive fast enough to car but if you want to roll at a decent speed the pinion angle is vital.

You probably already have a SYE and think I'm a moron but I though I would runn it past you just in case
 
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pokeyYJ

Guest
When I put the lift on it already had shims on the rear springs I think they were 6 degree shims? The reason that the driveline vibrates is because the amount of lift is too high, at least that is what I think, at approximatly 5 inches with only lowering the transfercase the driveshaft is over extended and bindes under hard load. Thanx for the input and I appriciate your advise.
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
Originally posted by pokeyYJ
When I put the lift on it already had shims on the rear springs I think they were 6 degree shims? The reason that the driveline vibrates is because the amount of lift is too high, at least that is what I think, at approximatly 5 inches with only lowering the transfercase the driveshaft is over extended and bindes under hard load. Thanx for the input and I appriciate your advise.
wranglers are notorious for needing replacement driveline work. you will probably have to go short double CV or some strange thing. but getting the dorrect u-jiont angle is done through shims. your output shaft and pinion shaft angles should be parallel. if you get to much angle or too steep of an angle upwards from your pinion you get vibes. make sure you get those angles right and go get a harbor freight angle finder to see. XJc is completely right about the shim part and You are completely right about your shaft possibly being too short.
 

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
Originally posted by spencurai
if you have a locker at least in the rear you will always notice a big difference!! traction aiding devices are always a better way to go than flex!!! and easier to install too!
:rolleyes: that is like saying jeeps are a better way to go than toys.

It is a little over simplified, for me. The biggest problem I see today is people who don't start wheeling until they are locked, seems they have a harder time learning to drive.
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
Originally posted by troutbum

:rolleyes: that is like saying jeeps are a better way to go than toys.

It is a little over simplified, for me. The biggest problem I see today is people who don't start wheeling until they are locked, seems they have a harder time learning to drive.

the point I am trying to make is the fact that if you have to have one or the other and can't have both, I would take locker over flex anyday!!

I agree with you to a point, I think people need to learn to drive without flex or lockers before they move to advanced equipment.
 

chadbuckner

Oh what a feeling..Toyota
Location
Riverdale, UT
if you want more flex go with alcan springs, they custom make them with each order for your specific application, mainly for toyotas but I believe they will make them for anything, and talk about mad flex. but you will pay a pretty penny for them, yet they are worth every tenth of a cent. go look at www.aor4x4.com
 
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