33" Tires what gears?
- Thread starter NoTrax
- Start date
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
don't go less than 4.27, I recommend 4.56, and with a small motor, you might even consider more than that.
I'm running 4.10 in my TJ with the 4.0/Auto and I wish I would have gone more. The problem is going up and over parleys (or similar). It just won't pull 3rd gear over that hill.
I'm running 4.10 in my TJ with the 4.0/Auto and I wish I would have gone more. The problem is going up and over parleys (or similar). It just won't pull 3rd gear over that hill.
This is what spence told me,
" you are outta luck, you already have 5:38 gears. the autos have 4:56s so you can't go any deeper without worrying about a weak pinion.
yep! that is the problem with kick/trackers. they already have deep gears to make up for their tranny t-case combo. the t-case gears do reduce your high range somewhat."
Im kinda confused tho, does regearing just mean tranny regear? or Regear in the diffs?
Any thoughts or anyyone have first hand info on re gearing?
I am thinking Ill be dead on the freeway (60)with no re gearing with 33" I can always do the T case for my low end.
I am currently sittig on 29.5 Bfg KO's 3 inch body and NO suspension. I have decided to try and get the calmini 3" this summer and 33" tires, I will only need minor trimming as I have a major body lift.
Iwould love if anyone has specific information on Zuk/Tracker axles in a 95 with manual tranny. 5.83 kinda sucks, i think thats what Spence said I had.
" you are outta luck, you already have 5:38 gears. the autos have 4:56s so you can't go any deeper without worrying about a weak pinion.
yep! that is the problem with kick/trackers. they already have deep gears to make up for their tranny t-case combo. the t-case gears do reduce your high range somewhat."
Im kinda confused tho, does regearing just mean tranny regear? or Regear in the diffs?
Any thoughts or anyyone have first hand info on re gearing?
I am thinking Ill be dead on the freeway (60)with no re gearing with 33" I can always do the T case for my low end.
I am currently sittig on 29.5 Bfg KO's 3 inch body and NO suspension. I have decided to try and get the calmini 3" this summer and 33" tires, I will only need minor trimming as I have a major body lift.
Iwould love if anyone has specific information on Zuk/Tracker axles in a 95 with manual tranny. 5.83 kinda sucks, i think thats what Spence said I had.
SnwMnkys
Registered User
- Location
- Orem, Utah
I have 4.11s in my EB with 33s and mine does quite well. I dont think ill go higher and i plan on upgrading to 35s or 36s. My motor spins a decent RPM on the freeway as well. I think i can go 70 MPH at 3000 rpm.
5:83 is as deep as you can go. I think you have something like 5.62s stock so 9% change is not that much difference.
http://www.puresuzuki.com/Ring & Pinion.htm
t-case gears are primarily availible from calmini or outsourced from calmini.
http://www.puresuzuki.com/rockcrawler1.htm
rocky road has basically the same thing for t-case gears.
http://www.rocky-road.com/kickdrive.html
to be perfectly honest, you have these options. that is it. you are outta luck because of the high gearing of the transmissions. you can only change your t-case gears or barely change your ring and pinions. if you were to go to an auto tranny, you could get some better gear reduction but you are starting with a platform that was shortcutted by the engineers.
some gents from the pirate board have this to say....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76162&highlight=sidekick+gears
and another thread from offroad.com it is outdated and not perfectly correct for all model years but you get the idea.
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/sidekick/sidespec.htm
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tracker/1993specs.htm
all of this information was obtained in .043 seconds on www.google.com
http://www.puresuzuki.com/Ring & Pinion.htm
t-case gears are primarily availible from calmini or outsourced from calmini.
http://www.puresuzuki.com/rockcrawler1.htm
rocky road has basically the same thing for t-case gears.
http://www.rocky-road.com/kickdrive.html
to be perfectly honest, you have these options. that is it. you are outta luck because of the high gearing of the transmissions. you can only change your t-case gears or barely change your ring and pinions. if you were to go to an auto tranny, you could get some better gear reduction but you are starting with a platform that was shortcutted by the engineers.
some gents from the pirate board have this to say....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76162&highlight=sidekick+gears
and another thread from offroad.com it is outdated and not perfectly correct for all model years but you get the idea.
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/sidekick/sidespec.htm
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tracker/1993specs.htm
all of this information was obtained in .043 seconds on www.google.com
Last edited:
bb88
New Title
- Location
- Clinton, Utah
I'm betting you have 5.12's~~~I have a pair of 5.62 diffs ready to drop in $450 and they're yours
bb88
New Title
- Location
- Clinton, Utah
poor suckers that pay $600+ for 12% gear reduction(in your infinite wisdom would you notice that?)
bb88
New Title
- Location
- Clinton, Utah
when you ask what gears for a daily driver(DD) I assume you mean R&P since dualing the t-case does nothing to correct driveability with larger tires. I'm not sure about the Sidekick T-case gears ($850+) but if they do, it will be about 10% which in my opinion will help.
jp008
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Heber City
I installed the 4.1 low range in my sami. It dropped the high range also about 10%. I currently have 3.73's in the diffs. I run 33's and can run 65 mph all day long. I noticed a difference with just the 10%. You can go to Suzuki and purchase new lower gears for your trans but you need to figure out what gearing you need. Running the stock Track/Kick stuff you are very limited as to what you can do.
If I remeber correctly you have a 16v 1.6 those things have ALOT of potential. I've seen guys get 150+ hp out of those. If you can't re-gear then replace gears with ponies.
do a search on Suzuki Swift GTI and you'll get some nice info. Or just drop in a 4.3 and get it over with.
If I remeber correctly you have a 16v 1.6 those things have ALOT of potential. I've seen guys get 150+ hp out of those. If you can't re-gear then replace gears with ponies.
do a search on Suzuki Swift GTI and you'll get some nice info. Or just drop in a 4.3 and get it over with.
G
Guest
Guest
"someday in the near fuure"
in the far far even farther future. poor boy!
bb88
New Title
- Location
- Clinton, Utah
HOW???? please explain!! I was refering to the Calmini R&P ($600 not including setup) so no I don't get your point. as far as I know there is no way to compensate for larger tires on a DAILY DRIVER Sidekick without doing R&P. I don't think the Calmini or Rocky Road t-case gears do anything for high gear (and they are at least $850) He asked for a way to improve driveability with larger tires I think I offered a reasonable solution,you made it sound like I was ripping him off (those gears are VERY hard to find) they will sell on e-bay trust me
xjc
I give up :(
- Location
- Ogden Utah
Excuse my deviation from the current conversation, I believe this info might come in handy for someone.
How do you know what gearing change you need?
to find out how your tires are changing youre gearing you have to find the ratio original tires to new tires for example, stock tires were probably 225's so something like 28" ( http://www.imajeep.com/metric.htm ) and the new ones are approximately 33". 33/28=1.18.
That means your new tires will be 18% larger than stock. So you are going to need an 18 percent gear reduction to retain original gearing. Doesn't sound like much but you will be able to notice it on a standard trany with a less than monster powerplant. If you can get the right gearing change, you will notice that the spedo is accurate which is nice
PS, what you realy need to compare is circumfrance but the diameter is proportional to circumfrance (circumfrance=pi * Diameter).
How do you know what gearing change you need?
to find out how your tires are changing youre gearing you have to find the ratio original tires to new tires for example, stock tires were probably 225's so something like 28" ( http://www.imajeep.com/metric.htm ) and the new ones are approximately 33". 33/28=1.18.
That means your new tires will be 18% larger than stock. So you are going to need an 18 percent gear reduction to retain original gearing. Doesn't sound like much but you will be able to notice it on a standard trany with a less than monster powerplant. If you can get the right gearing change, you will notice that the spedo is accurate which is nice
PS, what you realy need to compare is circumfrance but the diameter is proportional to circumfrance (circumfrance=pi * Diameter).
The originals were 205 on the 2wd models and 215 on the 4wd Ive stepped up to 235's currently and next step is 33" with trimming. I wish I did have the 450 to blow on the RP and bb has, but for 450 I would rather drop in a rear locker for around 200-300 and prolly something else I need more than RP at this time.
xjc
I give up :(
- Location
- Ogden Utah
I think youre headed down the right path there. I don't think tires are everything. Infact I think people with big tires and big lifts and open diffs are only good for mud holes. If you realy want to wheel you have to be locked. A guy with a stock sidekick and a rear locker could kick their butts on most terrain.
I just did most of golden spike with my nearly stock xj with a locker (ran out of daylight and had to turn back). When you have everything else and the tires are the only limitation, then go for bigger tires.
I just did most of golden spike with my nearly stock xj with a locker (ran out of daylight and had to turn back). When you have everything else and the tires are the only limitation, then go for bigger tires.