ARB Install

Underdog

Registered User
Location
Kailua, HI
I recently installed an ARB in my Dana 30. After one week ( about 200 road miles)I pulled the diff to check the oil and noticed their metal flakes in the oil and a lot of metal particles on the magnetic plug. I used "royal purple" and the diff cassing was throughly cleaned when installed. The back lash was set within specs and there was no new wear patterns on the gear teeth (used same gears). I cleand the diff again and replaced the oil and plan to pull it again this weekend, is this normal for an ARB?
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Underdog said:
I recently installed an ARB in my Dana 30. After one week ( about 200 road miles)I pulled the diff to check the oil and noticed their metal flakes in the oil and a lot of metal particles on the magnetic plug. I used "royal purple" and the diff cassing was throughly cleaned when installed. The back lash was set within specs and there was no new wear patterns on the gear teeth (used same gears). I cleand the diff again and replaced the oil and plan to pull it again this weekend, is this normal for an ARB?


NO!!!! If (when) mine did that, (both times) my housing was bent.
 

Todd Adams

Grammy's Spotter
Location
Salt Lake City
Underdog said:
I recently installed an ARB in my Dana 30. After one week ( about 200 road miles)I pulled the diff to check the oil and noticed their metal flakes in the oil and a lot of metal particles on the magnetic plug. I used "royal purple" and the diff cassing was throughly cleaned when installed. The back lash was set within specs and there was no new wear patterns on the gear teeth (used same gears). I cleand the diff again and replaced the oil and plan to pull it again this weekend, is this normal for an ARB?

You did not mention if you set the pre load correctly. The two settings that are the most important when replacing the carrier are the backlash (should be set to exactly what it was before unless out of specs) and the pre load on the carrier bearings. This usually around .005” to .010” more than o end play. If you installed all new bearings the pre load on the pinion is also critical. I am assuming you used the same gear set. If you did and re used the same pinion shims there is little need to check pattern. If you did not change the pinion bearings then there is no need to check pattern as long as the back lash was set to where is was since the pinion shims are what determine pattern.
Just a hint, If you did change out the ring and pinion set. Just add or subtract the shim thickness engraved into the end of the new pinion which what is on the old pinion plus the original shim pack. The by the book procedure is complicated and requires a special tool set to determine the shim pack. Otherwise it is very time consuming and tedious to set the correct pinion depth. You also need a lot of experience reading patterns to it right.
I am factory trained as well as an instructor myself to set up differentials. I just tried to simplify it for you. If you have metal in there now I would recommend replacing all the bearings at the very least. The ARB O rings and seals will not live long if there is any metal particles left.
Todd
 

Underdog

Registered User
Location
Kailua, HI
Well I pulled the diff cover to check the oil and it was clean. There was a thin coating of metal on the plug magnet but that was it. If I wasn’t having this issue I would have been comfortable reusing the oil. The oil looked very clean!

Yes the backlash was correct; it was checked and rechecked on the initial install and again when we changed the oil. I used the same gears. As for the preload, I assume you are referring to the shims and the amount of pressure they are exerting on the bearings. We measured the existing shims with a caliper and mimicked what was on each side of the carrier. Also there is still no new wear pattern on the gears.

So I guess I will pull the cover again in another month or so and see if it has stopped completely. Thanks for the help.
 
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