axle questions

[jeff cardall]

okay! really confused now. many saying toy axles and many saying d44's.okay i want something strong that i can beat the hel! out of if needed and is going to hold up really well im not ever going to go bigger than a sidekick motor the 1.6 so i will never have a ton of power i just dont want to spend the money and time to get some axles and have to worry about if i get a little ruff sometimes with them that somethin might brake.another thing i want something i can drop in with very little or no mods at all .i have no experiance in re-tubing things and all that .

ohh yeah somethin easy and cheap to fix if it did get broken!

 

[BlackSheep]

Jeff,
I'll make it simple for you. All this talk about which is better, the 44 or the Toy axles.....

I think it can really be a toss up when you look at the big picture.

Which ever way you go, I don't think you're going to have much problem with breaking axles. Either will work well for you.

You need to take a look at which is going to be more cost effective for you to install. Gearing, lockers, any fab needed for spring/shock mounts, drivelines, etc.

The biggest thing I like about the toy axles (and the reason I'm actually thinking about ditching my D44s for Ford 9") is the drop out 3rd member. What a great system, if you break something, you can have a complete spare in your rig already set up and ready to install. That is cool.

So, think about everything needed to swap axles, price them out, and make your decision based on that. I think either axle would make a good swap into your rig.

 

[terrymac]

Originally posted by jeff cardall
okay! really confused now. many saying toy axles and many saying d44's.okay i want something strong that i can beat the hel! out of if needed and is going to hold up really well im not ever going to go bigger than a sidekick motor the 1.6 so i will never have a ton of power i just dont want to spend the money and time to get some axles and have to worry about if i get a little ruff sometimes with them that somethin might brake.another thing i want something i can drop in with very little or no mods at all .i have no experiance in re-tubing things and all that .

ohh yeah somethin easy and cheap to fix if it did get broken!

Jeff,

You can break anything, even with a 1.3 zuk, if you try hard enough. DSI on the Pirate board, has D60s under his 1.3 zuk and he TWISTED the shafts!!

As far as affordablility and ease, it depends on what you are comfortable with and the connections you have. Toyotal axles are similar in design to the zuk stockers, but may be more expensive and hard to find. Parts for D44 stuff is cheap and easy to find and they can be had with offset diffs. Either way they will be much stronger than the stockers.

Either way the swap is going to be a bunch of fab work and will ultimately cost more than you planned (you will probaly have to buy new rims, for instance). But if you insist on running those massive 35's, you are going to have to bite the bullet.

Terry

 

[terrymac]

One more thing, I wouldn't sweat the axle width thing, this Zuk is on Toyota axles:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1684655#post1684655

You just need to choose the right rim offset.

 

[Shawn]

Originally posted by terrymac


Either way the swap is going to be a bunch of fab work and will ultimately cost more than you planned (you will probaly have to buy new rims, for instance). But if you insist on running those massive 35's, you are going to have to bite the bullet.

Terry

True, True, True.

 

[terrymac]

Jeff,

You need to find a deal like this:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1703282#post1703282

 

[N-Smooth]

go to pic n pull or another yard and buy some cherokee chief axles. they will be way easier to find than land cruiser axles... i promise. and if you go on a special half off day they will be hella cheap. you will need to buy new brakes and probably regear, but everything is cheap for the 44's. there is no way you could break a d44 with a 1.3 or 1.6, unless you like fall of a cliff or something. i have seen the stock zuki axles take all kinds of abuse, hell i have dished it out, and they always held up.
i pick the d44s for you based on availability and price of the axles and the parts.
you will have to weld perches on them and get 6 lug wheels, but the wheels are chevy so you can find some in the thrifties like i did. you will also need new drivelines. you will probably want to run a traction bar in the back, but you should do that with whatever axles you get, when you spring over.

all in all it is up to you, have fun axle shopping.
-nate

p.s. just imagine that stock sami axles are 50" wide roughly and cherokee chief axles are freakin 60-62", i bet that LC axles are about the same too

 

[James K]

What year(s) FSJ had offset rear 44's?

And does anybody know the width?

Jeff anything can be broke. You can only make it as bulletproof as possible.

 

[spencurai]

for a complete axle swap, you are looking at about 3000$ in axles, gears, lockers, drivelines, rims, brakes, shafts....basically EVERYTHING has to go except your engine tranny and t-case.

and yes....you will still break.

 

[spiderman]

ditto from spence. Mucho muneyo involved here. It all depends on what you want and what your resources are. I think the years for offset rear diffs on FSJ's are 74-81 or something close to that. I know that my 77 waggy has pass offset front and rears.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

You can pick up a set of mini-axles for $200...
Add lockers F&R $1200
Add Rebuild Kit for Front $87
Add Ring and Pinion upgrage $268
Add Install Kits $190
Add Install Labor $300
Add Longs $450
Add Driveline mods ~$400
Add perches ~$100
Add setup labor ~$250

Total... $3445 (and I am sure I'm missing somethings...)

 

[Vonski]

Hmmm, while your prices are prolly good for planning a budget for a swap, there are places there that money can be saved. Especially the first line....lockers for $1200??? You must be talking about the ever-crappy ARB. Spools, baby! $340 vs. $1200.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Originally posted by Vonski
Hmmm, while your prices are prolly good for planning a budget for a swap, there are places there that money can be saved. Especially the first line....lockers for $1200??? You must be talking about the ever-crappy ARB. Spools, baby! $340 vs. $1200.

Prolly good? Nope, Cruiser Outfitters good Actually I just lined a kid out with about the same deal, with the exception of +$200 for a comressor since he went with the ARB's (and yes he loves them)

Actually I was quoting Toyota electric lockers, face it, if it is driven on the road, spool suck... I know, I have driven a mile with my ARB's on... same thing.... Great for trail rigs but not in the front...

And about ARB's sucking, says who! I say they rule, I run em' and have had zero problems..... HA!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Originally posted by Vonski
...You must be talking about the ever-crappy ARB. Spools, baby! $340 vs. $1200.

And another thing, as I have mentioned before... I am yet to hear a complaint about any of the ARB's I have sold in the last couple years.... but I can however think of a few disgruntled Electric owners... one that just broke on Rattlsnake, even the Toyota tech on the scene was disgusted....

ARB's RULE

[/endARB rant]

 

[Kris K]

This is kind of a stupid question why not just swap in a set of trail tough shafts in the stock sami axles?

 

[Vonski]

Originally posted by cruiseroutfit


And another thing, as I have mentioned before... I am yet to hear a complaint about any of the ARB's I have sold in the last couple years.... but I can however think of a few disgruntled Electric owners... one that just broke on Rattlsnake, even the Toyota tech on the scene was disgusted....

ARB's RULE

[/endARB rant]

Just bustin' your chops a little Kurt... I know you're pro-ARB. They have the market with selectable lockers more or less. I'd like to see something less complex released soon, but so would most people. No rant neccessary.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Originally posted by Vonski


Just bustin' your chops a little Kurt...

Oh now I am little because I run ARB's.........





















Just Kiddin'
I can dish it out and you know I can take it.....
Bring it on......

ARB4Life

Unless they raise their prices one more time...

 

[tweakeyjeep]

Instead of a spool or an ARB why don't we just Lincoln Lock all of our rigs... It's cheaper!!!!

Now back to the main thread, lets answer Port's question about stronger shafts in sami axle.........

 

[terrymac]

Originally posted by tweakeyjeep
Instead of a spool or an ARB why don't we just Lincoln Lock all of our rigs... It's cheaper!!!!

Now back to the main thread, lets answer Port's question about stronger shafts in sami axle.........

According to Jeff Cardall, he is already running upgraded Calmini cro-mo shafts in the stock housings. Apparently he damaged his rear sidegears and started this whole thread because of that.

 

[terrymac]

Originally posted by cruiseroutfit
You can pick up a set of mini-axles for $200...
Add lockers F&R $1200
Add Rebuild Kit for Front $87
Add Ring and Pinion upgrage $268
Add Install Kits $190
Add Install Labor $300
Add Longs $450
Add Driveline mods ~$400
Add perches ~$100
Add setup labor ~$250

Total... $3445 (and I am sure I'm missing somethings...)

Alright, since someone dropped the big $$ bomb and because of Jeff's admitted lack of fab skills, this is what I suggest he spend the $3500 on:

Trail Tough "Big Rear End". Sidekick pumpkin, DOM tubes, Ford axles, gears and ARB for $1750

Trail Tough "Big Suzana". Sidekick pumpkin, DOM tubes, D44 axles and outers, and gears for $2100

http://www.trailtough.com/axle.htm

Everything bolts on, he gets axles lighter than Toyota, without Birfields and they come geared. The rear comes with an ARB and Jeff can stuff his Lockwrong in the front. Perfect compromise all for the small fee of $3850 plus S&H.