• DCRC 2024

Axle swap in my Rubicon?

waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I want to be around 60-63" wide...
I want larger than 30 spline axles - 33 or 35 would be sufficient.
I want disc brakes.
Bolt pattern isn't much of an issue, as I'll be buying new wheels anyway. But I would like the same pattern to be available for the Ford HPD44 front that I'll be using.
FF or SF doesn't matter much to me - just no C Clips or eliminators.
I'd also like to have the same brakes front and rear and same spindle out components?
I would also like it to be HP - so that I can get better driveline angles.
I would also like to have good clearence.

My two thoughts (actually three I guess)
Keep my LPD44 and install 33 spline axles/Detroit, upgrade the brakes and bolt pattern.
HP Ford 9"
HP D60

14 bolt seems like I would have clearance issues, as I most likely will not be going larger than 35" tires - at least for a while, if ever.

The rear is already triangulated, but I don't intend on coil overs/air shocks until I stretch it - again, if ever.

The front will get coil overs and triangulated as well. I'm looking at the Rancho's w/125/250# springs....

Currently I have RE's long arm kit with a custom triangulation in the rear. When I do these swaps, I'm thinking about pulling the RE kit off (long arms/crossmember) and changing the way the control arms mount to the frame. At the same time, see if I can get everything up above the frame rails. Maybe I can modify the tub to allow enough clearence for the drivetrain without adding a body lift? If not, then I'll actually move the mounts to give me the room I need without adding a lift. I'll have to look at that as an option.... The control arms I intend of having them mount to the frame and crossmember - uppers to the inside of the frame rails straight forward. Lowers to the bottom of the crossmember, in the center of the vehicle. Which should give me a better chance of getting off of something if I do get high centered, or completely eliminate that feature all together. I might make the rear double triangulated.. No reason not to I guess?

Thoughts?
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Andy said:
Why don't you run bigger tires if your upgrading your axles? Why are you asking this, didn't you ask the same question with the other post?
Click to expand...

Bigger tires - easier to do harder trails. It gets to the point you don't even have to try anymore. So with my 35's, it leaves me a challenge. My current 35's are also brand new. Maybe when my 35's are due for replacment, I might go to 37's then. But not bigger than that, because I don't want to be too top heavy or cut out all of the sheet metal to clear them.

I've been asking questions. The first two threads were pretty specific - 3/4 ton HPD44 5 lug swap and a D44/D60 rear swap. This thread is a little more general to discuss my whole thought process - which includes suspension work as well as both axle swaps. Trust me, the other threads won't be deleted and I will keep those notes.
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Looks like I'll be doing a stretch and coil overs on all 4 corners at the same time... I've been thinking about it, and I might as well just do it all.

So after I'm done, I will have for sale:
complete 5.5" RELA kit with Bilstein shocks and custom triangulation in the rear (or stock RE uppers, I have them both - your choice)
Front and rear D44's, complete from rim to rim (including the compressors, brakes and hi steer)
Stock TJ gas tank and skid
5 - Mickey Thompson Classic II's 15x8, 5 on 4.5"
4 - Mickey Thompson Baja Claw (bias) 35x13.50-15 (about 2k miles on them)
1 - Goodyear MTR 35x12.50-15 (never ran, 10 psi spare it's whole life)


I'm going to stretch it about 5-7" in the rear and 2-3" in the front. I'll custom make a gas tank that is not quite as wide (front/rear), and is also thinner (tub/ground) and push it up in the frame rails - it'l still be about 14 gallons and use the stock pump/sending unit.

Both, front and rear will be triangulated with coil overs. The rear I'll put the coil overs outside the frame, just like the fronts. The fronts will be hooped, while the rears will be notched into the frame rail.

Both front and rear lowers, will triangle to the center of the skid while the uppers will go straight back (rear will be double triangulated). I'll be using Johnny Joints at all ends and probably 2x.25 DOM lowers and 1.75x.120 DOM uppers

I'm going to try to put everything up inside the frame rails as much as possible. If it means lifting the tub off the frame rails, so be it - about an inch is all I will go though.. No body lifts, I will relocate the body mounts instead.

As for axles, I think I'm going to stick to my original thought... HPD44 up front and RJD60 in the rear - both with Detroits and probably 4.88's. They will probably end up 63-62" (front/rear) wms to wms.... I just need to find a combination of stock axles that will give me around that width on the HPD44 - thoughts anyone?? 79? Bronco is 65"? Which would be better than the 61" Waggy...

After all said and done, I will probably go up to 37's and stop.

Hopefully I'll get going on this later in the month and have it ready for the Kanab trip in May...:ugh: :greg:
 
waynehartwig

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I've been crunching some numbers with the Dana book, and I don't see where I can make a 63-65" axle with stock parts. Anyone know what I'm missing?? I'd hate to have customs made each time... I guess I could just do some F150's and have them cut down/resplined each time... ...Probably end up being about the same cost, though....

Anyone know if I can just bite the bullet and go full width with some 6" flares and be covered? Anyone running FW axles on their street legal rig, without paying off the inspector??? Or is that just crazy talk? I really like the idea of not having custom shafts made each time..
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
waynehartwig said:
.....

Anyone know if I can just bite the bullet and go full width with some 6" flares and be covered? Anyone running FW axles on their street legal rig, without paying off the inspector??? Or is that just crazy talk? I really like the idea of not having custom shafts made each time..
Click to expand...


You'll need heavily offset wheels and it's just barely legal. It's been done a few times.
 
Bart

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
You go for it Wayne. I'm ending up 61" front and rear. Dana 60 rear, Dana HP 44 front. Front has alloy shafts, but I need to get some better ujoints. I ran that in my XJ with 37s and the axles held up fine, until the ujoints broke.
 
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