brake probs, big-O says!

devilbikerdude

Registered User
Location
Sandy, Utah
okay so i just installed crown performance ext ss lines in front and back. the front ones made me a bit weary, they didnt have the little notch to line up the line with the bolt that has the little holes in it, no what im sayin??

so any who i bleed the brakes with some friends and i was pretty confident on how i did it (first time) made sure there were no bubbles, all that good stuff. any ways after i mounted the tires, the brakes pretty much went all the way to the floor, like they still had air or somthing, toook it to big-0 cuz i was plannin on getting my new tires mounted, stepped up to 33"x12.50", (also just installed tc uca's and ivd ext coils) so i asked them to bleed the brakes and swap out tires, went back and they told me tires wont fit and brakes dont work!!!
well i new the tires wouldnt fit all the way, i need spacers, adjust coils and trim fenders, they mounted them anyways, but they told me the master cylinder is leakin from the bottom! i dont know how, my truck sat for 2 months after i busted the suspension and had to save for new, but the brakes worked like champs before that. So i kept an eye on it and i havent seen **** leaking out!! but the brakes are still very soft, not safe to drive!

so my questions:
-could the new brake lines have something to do with this?
-the reservoir is mounted to that grey piece but i can see a small amount of fluid in the O ring in there??? maybe leak?
no fluid has drained from reservoir!?
-I noticed there wasnt any sign of drainage at the BPV in the rear and yet there were signs of drainage at all other bleeder valves, maybe they just didnt bleed that one and it could cause it to be soft, cus the brakes are better then they were when i did it. not by much though.

well i hope someone can give me a clue on what to do with this, i finally got my truck almost ready to drive after 2 months!

aslo its an 2002 tacoma, no abs, 4x4,trd

oh and the guys there broke my shell rear door shocks THEY WERE BRAND NEW! they told me they would replace it though.... and they didnt charge me for the brake bleed!
 

chans

Registered User
Location
Sandy
Did you bleed them pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front? It usually takes two or three times in that order to get rid of all the air bubbles. There is brake fluid where the the master cylinder bolts to the booster?
 

jp008

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber City
If the vehicle has ABS and is OBD 2 then you may need the dealer or someone with a compatible scanner to assist. The reason I say this is because the new Jeeps are this way. Just a thought.
 

OREGON85

from OREGON
Did you bleed them pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front? It usually takes two or three times in that order to get rid of all the air bubbles. There is brake fluid where the the master cylinder bolts to the booster?

I thought it was driver rear, pass rear, pass front, drive front.
 

devilbikerdude

Registered User
Location
Sandy, Utah
ya i bleed in this order, pass rear, driver rear, BPV, pass front and driver front, that didnt work so i had big o do it, they told me the MC is leaking, i had my mechanic take a look, he determined that the rubber seal between my resi and MC is leaking, for the front sector of the resi, thats why my pedal doesnt go all they way to the ground, im gonna order the o rings form toyota tomorrow and install, ill let ya know how it goes.
 

Mug

PHORmerly
Location
Orem, UT
ya i bleed in this order, pass rear, driver rear, BPV, pass front and driver front, that didnt work so i had big o do it, they told me the MC is leaking, i had my mechanic take a look, he determined that the rubber seal between my resi and MC is leaking, for the front sector of the resi, thats why my pedal doesnt go all they way to the ground, im gonna order the o rings form toyota tomorrow and install, ill let ya know how it goes.

If that's really where the leak is, then it wouldn't affect braking performance directly. All of the line pressure is built up inside the MC after the fluid passes from the res to the MC.

So get the o-ring fixed, but work on getting the brakes squared away first.

Found a good site here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/howworks.html
 
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