Hey everyone, I have a 1990 bronco II that i have been building. I am looking to either buy or build some rock sliders. Does anyone know any good places that sell pre built sliders. Or can i buy some off of different vehicles and fab them to work on my truck? Also is it better to bolt them on or weld them on to the frame?
Bronco II Rock Sliders
- Thread starter MadMike
- Start date
Welcome!
not a lot is available for us RBV guys, you need to build your own.
we Utah broncoII guys have a thread going over here: http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php...4db69de6c39a34ee9e6&topic=13298.msg139964#new
we meet up about once a month for burgers, and to check out each other's rigs. "vf1100" on that thread has some rock decent sliders he built from scratch for his B2. you shoud come out to our next meet up and you can see them in person to get some ideas on how to do it
not a lot is available for us RBV guys, you need to build your own.
we Utah broncoII guys have a thread going over here: http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php...4db69de6c39a34ee9e6&topic=13298.msg139964#new
we meet up about once a month for burgers, and to check out each other's rigs. "vf1100" on that thread has some rock decent sliders he built from scratch for his B2. you shoud come out to our next meet up and you can see them in person to get some ideas on how to do it
Box Rocket
bored
- Location
- Syracuse, Utah
Measure the length of your rockers. You might be able to get some of the toyota reg cab sliders from Trail Gear to work.
their short ones are 58". Probably best to weld them to the frame. Scab plates first.
http://www.trail-gear.com/trail-armor
their short ones are 58". Probably best to weld them to the frame. Scab plates first.
http://www.trail-gear.com/trail-armor
Ok thanks for all the advice. I will Follow that form and I would really be interested in coming to the bronco II meets. Which axle did you use for your sas on your BII? I heard that the older broncos are easy to swap because they already have they lower radius arms. But i have been thinking about a jeep dana 44. and keeping the coils and building lower arms?
we will be glad to have you!
as to answer your other questions, its just easier to read over this. my swap was way more involved because all-at-once i did:
1) chevy v8 swap (high horsepower, low expense)
2) full width dana 44 swap (much wider than the early bronco/jeep 44)
3) full width 12-bolt rear swap (equally as much wider)
4) tranny swap (bullet-proof sm465, with 7.5:1 first gear)
5) np205 t-case swap (strong cast iron case, with gear-to-gear design)
so the route i went made the most sense. but the way i did it isn't for the faint of heart
my build thread from 3 years ago:
http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?topic=9152.0
and my recent work:
http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?topic=14703.0
as to answer your other questions, its just easier to read over this. my swap was way more involved because all-at-once i did:
1) chevy v8 swap (high horsepower, low expense)
2) full width dana 44 swap (much wider than the early bronco/jeep 44)
3) full width 12-bolt rear swap (equally as much wider)
4) tranny swap (bullet-proof sm465, with 7.5:1 first gear)
5) np205 t-case swap (strong cast iron case, with gear-to-gear design)
so the route i went made the most sense. but the way i did it isn't for the faint of heart
my build thread from 3 years ago:
http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?topic=9152.0
and my recent work:
http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?topic=14703.0
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RICO9
Member
- Location
- West Jordan, UT
Welcome! Hope to see you at the next meet up!
skiboarder
SkiBoarder
- Location
- No Ogden
I'll be there. I need a burger. When I do my SAS i am going with a dana30. Size is right and so is the bolt pattern with the rims. Plus I will be going leaves insted of coils. Good to see another BII on here.
i agree, so does wade.
I know nothing about the bII's but the 80-96 full size bronco's had a 3 inch wide channel under the door frame, you could bolt a piece of 2x3x3/16 into that channel and have a hidden rock slider. It wouldn't keep the body from getting banged up but it would keep the door opening square so the door would always open and close properly.
might be something to look at if the bII's are similar
nathan
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
might be something to look at if the bII's are similar
nathan
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up
zukijames
Well-Known Member
- Location
- not moab anymore
Wouldnt that be weaker and ride worse than what you have now ?
skiboarder
SkiBoarder
- Location
- No Ogden
It should have never been built. It was the second worse thing that ford ever made.
What was the worst? TFI?
I know the ttb d30 was worse than the d44 (the d50 was odd too) since it pushed the engine up and the COG, and everyone knows the bll's roll over rep...
Nathan
that was due to the design of the TTB suspension geometry, nothing to do with the engine being raised.
after you read the above quote, you'll see that the TTB's "ride" is not great, and is downright dangerous
the broncoII came with a D28. and not only that, the TTB has 2 U-joints on the passenger side axle, and the housing is made from a stamped-steel, not a giant cast iron brick , with thick tubes like most axle housings. and the passenger side axle actually has "window" in the housing that it passes through. the housing literally has a 5" x 5" hole cut in it for the axle to exit
the ford explorer ttb d35 is identical, with a slightly larger carrier. so log story short: TTB leaves a lot to be desired
zukijames
Well-Known Member
- Location
- not moab anymore
Make some sliders..
more hijack could you install a heavier duty ttb set up?
hijack ofoff sliders are super easy to build
more hijack could you install a heavier duty ttb set up?
hijack ofoff sliders are super easy to build
this thread is officially jacked.
a guy had some super-duper custom bracketry made up to install the full-size ttb onto the RBV smaller frames. he is a crazy pro-TTB nut its not worth it, has no up-travel, and massive stamped steel housings that hurt articulation/ground clearance. also articulation is limited by the size of the "window" in the housing that the passenger axle passes through (as the beams "scissor", the passenger axle needs to go downward, or upward inside the housing so it is limited by how tall the housing is on the inside) even if you make the hole bigger you are removing material from an already weak design, and you can only take so much material out anyway.
a solid axle is only limited by links, springs, and tire clearance, a ttb is limited by those same things, as well as what i listed above
btw the guy i was talking about took the brackets off he made, and sold them, and went back to the smaller RBV TTB
a guy had some super-duper custom bracketry made up to install the full-size ttb onto the RBV smaller frames. he is a crazy pro-TTB nut its not worth it, has no up-travel, and massive stamped steel housings that hurt articulation/ground clearance. also articulation is limited by the size of the "window" in the housing that the passenger axle passes through (as the beams "scissor", the passenger axle needs to go downward, or upward inside the housing so it is limited by how tall the housing is on the inside) even if you make the hole bigger you are removing material from an already weak design, and you can only take so much material out anyway.
a solid axle is only limited by links, springs, and tire clearance, a ttb is limited by those same things, as well as what i listed above
btw the guy i was talking about took the brackets off he made, and sold them, and went back to the smaller RBV TTB
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Suspension issues aside, try to safely and accurately steer a lifted ttb (or even a stock one...)
This all reminded me what my friend did to a ttb
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/86534
I don't remember if that is my old ttb, I seem to remember my old ttb being made into an engine stand, the locking hub would somehow lock the motor from turning when you rotated it to work on it.
Ah the days before the D60...
This all reminded me what my friend did to a ttb
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/86534
I don't remember if that is my old ttb, I seem to remember my old ttb being made into an engine stand, the locking hub would somehow lock the motor from turning when you rotated it to work on it.
Ah the days before the D60...
zukijames
Well-Known Member
- Location
- not moab anymore