Cherokee axles?

Krawler

Registered User
Hi,
I'm looking to upgrade the cherokee. I want to run 35's and i was looking at the super 30 kit for the dana 30 up front. The kit has 30 spline cromo shafts and an arb. For the rear chrysler 8.25" i was thinking of just putting some stronger shafts in and a detriot. and of course im going to put gears in.

Is this the best thing to do? can it handle 35's, is there something better or cheaper that i can do. basically i want to run 35's and have the front and rear locked, any ideas?
 

Devel

Just an Outlaw....
Location
North Salt Lake
Dana 60's its the new thing man :greg: u should be fine just be easy on the pedal, on my TJ i have stock axles (LP dana 30 and dana 35) and im running 35's havent broken a shaft or a U-joint yet
 

Jeremy

total tacoma points: 162
Dana 60's its the new thing man :greg: u should be fine just be easy on the pedal, on my TJ i have stock axles (LP dana 30 and dana 35) and im running 35's havent broken a shaft or a U-joint yet

the key word.:p


light on the pedal and strong shafts..... you can probably make it work. if it was me i wouldnt spend the money on a super 30 kit, i would save a few more bucks and build a d44. i curently have a D30 with 35"s but it worried me every time i drove it. i am in the process of replacing it with a d44.

as for the 8.25".... i have no experience, cant help with that.
 

devilbikerdude

Registered User
Location
Sandy, Utah
the key word.:p


light on the pedal and strong shafts..... you can probably make it work. if it was me i wouldnt spend the money on a super 30 kit, i would save a few more bucks and build a d44. i curently have a D30 with 35"s but it worried me every time i drove it. i am in the process of replacing it with a d44.

as for the 8.25".... i have no experience, cant help with that.


is this a tuff conversion, cuz my d30 housing might be bent and possibly ruined my arb locker. and i was considering just upgrading to a d44 instead, how expensive does that usally go for? thanks
 

Devel

Just an Outlaw....
Location
North Salt Lake
is this a tuff conversion, cuz my d30 housing might be bent and possibly ruined my arb locker. and i was considering just upgrading to a d44 instead, how expensive does that usally go for? thanks

well according to everyone on this forum if you r going to upgrade just go to a D60 forget the 44
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
well according to everyone on this forum if you r going to upgrade just go to a D60 forget the 44


can of worms open again:

What do you break on the D30 that you won't break on the D44? (i.e. why are you considering an upgrade) My experience is with an XJ (super special, reverse cut, non-disconnect) D30 front/D44 rear with 35" MT/Rs.

D30 issues: (from my experience)

1) axle joints (297 or 760)
2) bent housing (housings in my case)
3) ball joints
4) unit bearings

D44 advantages:
1) potentially stronger housing (depending on which D44 version, but some have decent axle tubes and definitely a stronger 'pig')
2)slight edge in ball joints
3)commonly available with spindle-inner-outer bearings
4)better brakes available
5)slightly stronger ring/pinion than a reverse D30, but I didn't have any issues with the strength of a 4.88 ring/pinion (and that pinion is 'cute') in my D30

D44 disadvantages: (again, my opinion)
1)AXLE JOINTS (they're the same as the ones I broke a LOT of in my D30 that took out the shafts)

IN MY OPINION, I needed an upgrade to my axle joints. I could go exotic (CTM or similar) and get some alloy axles (Warn or Superior were my choices) and spend about $800-1200 (this was a few years ago, so pricing may be off a little), OR I could get bigger stock axle joints and still have an upgrade path if they became an issue (D60s have CTM and alloy axles available) and not have to go through building a whole other axle again. The choice was simple for me when you can get a D60 for about the same price as the upgraded axles in the D44 (or even the D30). After seeing a few Warn shafts and CTMs shred themselves in a D44, it made it that much easier to do the 60.

It's your money, spend it how you want. I'd rather spend mine on fuel for trips rather than parts. If I ever have an XJ again, I'm sticking to the reverse D30, building a decent rear axle (XJ D44, 29 spline 8.25 or even an 8.8) and sticking to 33" tires and about 4-5" lift. They're actually a decent little rig if you stay to that area. You'll start stressing the unibody and rebuilding all kinds of things as you move up in tire size from 33". Not worth it to me. This is my opinion and is worth exactly what you paid me for it. :D
 
FWIW I am running dana 30's in the front of both my cherokee's and w/35's on one and 33's on the other. Don't get to heavy a foot on the skinny pedal and you'll be all right. One is running 8.25 rear w/stock shafts and detroit and does well. The one w/35's is running a dana 35 in the rear (supposedly the weaker axle) so it got upgraded to the super 35 kit and works well. Summary-Put a little cash into the axles you have and they will do fine.
 

Krawler

Registered User
Thanks for all the help guys. I'm still not sure what im going to do but at least now I have the right info to make my choice.

Thanks again
 
Top