CJ7/yj bumper designs for outboarded shackles and tire carrier

redrussell

Active Member
Forgive me if I'm retarded because, well, I am thanks to my phone making the forum hard to navigate. I was trying to search but wasn't having the success. So my situation is this, need bumper design idea because my original designs won't work cause my build changed. I'm a CJ7(kinda), yj tub and frame, 350sbc/350/205(for now), full width d44/14bff, xj springs front and rear. The wheelbase is being stretched as far as possible via outboarding the shackles front and rear. My original build plans were to link the rear and have the shackles in the front end right behind the front bumper. I need to have a swing out tire rack holder on the back beefy enough to carry a 40" and 2 Jerry cans as well as a hitch integrated and shackle points. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel what have other people done that works?
 

redrussell

Active Member
I included it is a yj tub because I need the pivot offset enough that I can open the rear door far enough to be able to open the full-size took drawer I'm putting in the back.
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
A little too late to take pictures now but my jeep is very similar to what you are describing. CJ look on a YJ tub and frame, swing out tire carrier for 40" tire and stretched as far as i could (110" wheel base) When you say " outboarding" front and rear, what do you mean? I out boarded my front. Meaning, I moved the hangers and shackles slightly outside the frame rails to accommodate the full width axle. I did not do that on the rear. Anyway, I'd be happy to show you the way I built mine.
 

DevinB

I like traffic lights
Location
Down Or'm
I was planning on doing something similar before I sold my YJ a couple years ago. I was planning on going with the BTF stretch kit with a cross member reinforcement plate for good measure. I hadn't worked out the exact math, but I was pretty sure this would allow me to leave the spring hanger in place on the frame, then let the offset leaf spring pin account for the stretch. The bumper should be beefy enough to mount a tire carrier. Hope this helps somehow, and good luck.
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
I built my cj7 bumper so that the shackle mounts were installed on the back side of the bumper. Similar to how people weld a D-ring mount on bumpers. You cannot get any further back than that with leaf springs. I then drilled a new hole in the main leafs an inch further back in the leaf to give another inch of stretch. I didn't "outboard" the rear axle like I did the front, but you could do it easily and it would give you more stability.
 

redrussell

Active Member
Pretty much how unstuck described it. I have the hangers hanging (well I will have them) from the out side of the bumpers both front and rear as well as moved then outward sideways for the full width axles. I just want to do the bumpers once and be done and since I know my end goal I really would like some visual ideas of what has worked because I don't want to build something to find a big flaw later on and rip it all back apart.
 

redrussell

Active Member
Can those of you that have picture post them? If you have measurements that would be exactly what I am looking for. I have a picture of what I am kinda thinking but can't get it to post
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
Here's a picture I found on my phone from when I was building. Not great but it will give you an idea. I'll try to get some more soon.

I took the Blue torch fab idea but used a 4x6, 1/4" rectangle tube as my bumper/rear cross member. It's the same width as the the frame so I cut and welded plates to the end of the tube that extends along the frame rails for a little bit to tie it all in. The tire carrier mounts outside of the tailgate so it's wide enough for full function. Then, I still needed more wheelbase so I made extended shackle mounts. I did not outboard the rear but with the full width and trying to keep as low as possible, stability has not been an issue.

I moved the front end forward about 2" and with the stretch in the rear, ended up with 110" wheelbase.

Everyone has a different idea, this was mine. Hope it helps. You're welcome to look at it anytime.IMG_20151011_162044762.jpg
 

redrussell

Active Member
Minus the extensions for the shackles that like perfect and what I was trying to think of. Were you able to add shackle points later to it? I notice your fenders are taped with paper. Is the area covered in paper what you were able to keep and the metal closer to the tires you trimmed?
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
You could certainly add shackle points (for d-rings, I assume). I didn't. I just use the receiver that I welded in. The loop end of a tow strap fits right in and you put the pin through. No clanking sounds while you're going down the trail. Obviously, I added a "landing" point for the non-hinged side of the tire carrier. Holds a 40" tire and doesn't rattle.

Yes, the tire side of the paper is what I trimmed. I went straight up the tire side of the tape at the bottom, flush with the box for the rear body mount. Had to flatten the pinch weld at the end. Only slight rubbing at full stuff but was able to keep the rear body mount without having to relocate it. Also kept some of the round wheel opening rather than a comp cut. Made my own body armor panel so I could relocate the wheel opening to the new, stretched position.
 
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