Crossover steering & gears

[88 Runner SAS]

Not yet but soon I'll be lifting my runner 4", regearing for 35"SSRs and putting x-over steering on it. I was wondering where the best place is to buy x-over steering? And what gears I should go with for the 35's? And are the ring and pinion gears the same size for the 4-cylinders and v-6s? I want to put a V-6 3rd in with an ez locker(not enough money for an air) because I heard they were stronger. Are ez lockers pretty tough.

 

[Greg]

For gears, go with 5.29's. They are perfect for 35-37's and are still strong. The next step up would be 5.71, but they are weak and break with real wheelin. I run 5.29's w/ 35's, (Soon to be 37's) and its a perfect balance, I can do 90 MPH with a tailwind!! Its about where your truck would be geared with stock 4.10's and 30" Tires. You will need to order gears for the Diff you plan to use, I believe there is a diffrence in V6 and 4 Cyl gears.

There are a number of vendors to choose from for Crossover or Highsteer. AllPro has good parts and high prices. Look at Rockstomper, Kongs 4x4, and Marlin Crawler too. They all have web pages you can browse.

If you can afford it, I would do a Detroit in the rear. I had a EZ Locker in my old CJ and it was a PITA to drive. It popped all the time. My Detroit is almost invisible with the tires aired up. The EZ Locker is about the same strenght of a LockRight, which has a life of about 3-4 years if you wheel it and drive it. Detroits almost last forever.

Anything else?

 

[Vonski]

Listen to Greg on those gears. 5.29's are what ya want. My opinion on the hy-steer crossover parts would be to go with Rockstomper. Not just because of the quality of parts, but Scott really takes good care of his customers. Tell 'em Von sent ya. Also, tell him he drives a sissy truck.

 

[yellowjacket]

Oh come on Von, Scott's Toy isn't to bad! I wouldn't mind 44's!!

 

[TRD270]

I'm also for 5.29's I only have 33's now and I still can go freeway speeds and I am also for the detriot. Same as Greg almost not there with the tires aired up


OHH yeah get your gears and locker from Rocklogic

 

[88 Runner SAS]

Well I don't really have the money for a Detroit I don't think. What do they go for, over $500? If so then no I don't. I have a spare 4-cyl 3rd, would it be a bad Idea to weld the spiders and run that for a while till I could afford a detriot? I need to get the lift and x-over, hopefully we get the money soon. When I did the sas I couldn't afford the x-over, so I took the box and everything from my 85 and put in this one. I just welded it to the frame so I can torch the box off and put the original back on when I get the x-over. I get a terrible shaking back and forth in the wheels sometimes at around 25-30mph. Ive checked everything in the front and can't find anything loose. I think I'm going to replace the shock on on my steering and see if that helps it.

I think I'll go up to Moab on labor day weekend with it and bum around And see if I can find some trails this time. Not that I can do too much with it it only has 31"s on it right now. And its a little bouncy there are no shocks on the front. I put the 85's shock towers on it and ordered stock shocks for the 85 and they were too short. I want to make some double shock hoops up through the fender wells when I get the lift.

 

[TRD270]

I got my detroit from Rocklogic for just over 400.

 

[88 Runner SAS]

That doesn't sound like a bad price. What would they get for gears? Maybe I could come up for the money for a locker we'll see.

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by 88 Runner SAS
I get a terrible shaking back and forth in the wheels sometimes at around 25-30mph. Ive checked everything in the front and can't find anything loose. I think I'm going to replace the shock on on my steering and see if that helps it.

You have Death Wobble. Is your Steering Box moving at all? I had Death Wobble when one of the mounts broke on my box. New box with a good, solid mount fixed it. Heres more info about DW.


I had horrible Death Wobble after adding my HighSteer. I researched it and found that the Alignment should be 1/4 to 1/8" Tow IN, not Toe out. The FSM says 'Toe In', as well. I pulled my tires off and did a Tape Measure alignment-

To properly align my truck, I clamped 2 pieces of square steel onto the Rotors and measured out 7.5" from the center of the hub, front and back. This measurement is exactally where your wheels would sit (7.5" + 7.5" = 15" wheel). From this measurement, adjust your Tie Rod ends so that your tires point IN at the front, by less than 1/4". I adjusted my Toe In to about 1/8" +/- and took a drive. There was a night and day diffrence!!

I am currently running no Steering Stabilizer, 35's, and about 6" of lift between springs and a lift shackle. If there were any hint of DW, it would definatelly manifest itself.


A steering stabilizer is just a bandage to cover the real problem.

*Check your toe in, should be 1/8-1/4".

*Did you rebuild the front end?

*Trunion bearings - ball joints bad.

*Pre-load to loose on the knuckles, the bigger the tires the closer to the high end the pre-load should be.

*Not enough caster.

 

[88 Runner SAS]

You lose me on the alignment stuff. Not very good at that yet. No I didn't rebuild it. I will have to look closer at the welds on the box, but It doesn't look like any came loose.

 

[Greg]

Alignments are easy......the one I wrote about was the first and only one I have ever done. Which part is confusing, I may be assuming something. Let me know and we'll get your DW straightened out right away.

Is this bad enough that you HAVE TO STOP, right away? Thats DW.

 

[88 Runner SAS]

Yeha I either have to slam the brakes, or drop to second and hammer it real fast. Usually the best one is stop and start over.

 

[Greg]

OK, I added to the Alignment part. Any better? It was kinda choppy.....

 

[88 Runner SAS]

So do you mean to have it within a 1/4 or 1/8 or inch between the front and rear measurement? I'll give it a shot in the morning and see how it works out.

 

[Skyetone]

welding the spiders even perminently is fine. torch the spiders first then weld. Gets the coating off. You will loose tire life but thats part of the game. Its way cheep.

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by 88 Runner SAS
So do you mean to have it within a 1/4 or 1/8 or inch between the front and rear measurement? I'll give it a shot in the morning and see how it works out.

You need the front turned in (Toe in) 1/4 to 1/8", compared to the rear. If the front and rear are measured (7 1/2" from the center of the hub), you would want to see-

Front - 54 3/4"

Rear - 55"

Those are just approx. #'s. I did my truck this way and it goes straight and wears the tires perfectly.

 

[88 Runner SAS]

Alright I get it now. I'm leaving to shop to try it. Mine measure the same front to back, so thats probably the problem. Gotta fab a rear bumper too, make the cops happy . Thanx

 

[I Lean]

Originally posted by 88 Runner SAS
That doesn't sound like a bad price. What would they get for gears? Maybe I could come up for the money for a locker we'll see.

Shoot me an Email or PM, and tell me exactly what gears/axles you're looking at, and I'll give ya a price.

 

[love_mud]

I have found that an outa balance tyre will also cause deathwobbles. ( this is a real common problem on light weight Zuks with big lifts )

Cheer
Guy