dana 60 inner shaft strength

ryan iverson

parts collector
Location
no.ogden
i am wondering if i need to upgrade my inner shafts on my dodge 60 to run 42'' iroks i already have yukon cromo 35 stubs any one have problems with the stock inners ? the 60 is out of like a 84 dodge one ton. any info will be much apreciated
 

RamToy

Wickha Wickha Wa
Location
West Jordan, UT
Here is a quote from Billa Vistas 60 F Bible.

"OK, here is a run down of how things "usually "break:
if running the taper-down 35 spline inners with stock 30 spline outers the inner will break where it tapers down or the stub will break at about the same time. When the stub breaks it will usually ruin the lockout and it can break the spindle (split the spindle) or cause the spindle to swell. If running "big style" inners with the stock 30 spline stub axle then the stock 30 spline outer axleshaft or lock out will go. If running big inner with 35 spline (Dana 70) outer then the u-joint or 35 spline lock out will pop. If the u-joint goes it will take out the ears on both axles usually. If running big style inners with 35 spline outers with 35 spline drive flanges then the u-joint will break. Of course a driveshaft joint could break before some of this stuff depending on what size joints you are running. And the ring and pinion can be a victim if it is not set up properly to handle the abuse (I mean use) I have broken two 1480 joints which took out the inner and outer axles (broke ears) and I have broken a 35 spline Dana 70 rear axle shaft. Hope this helps. Remember this is not written in stone, but just observations from 8 years of running a 60 front "

My only experience witha 60 front has been the last 2.5 years. Durring that time ive only broken one Inner short side. Mine is/was the neckdown version. And it broke right where it necks down. I am still running 30sp Outers and Spicer joints. I Just got a hold of the newer superceded part the non-neck down inner. And will probably put in my 35 stub outters within the next little bit.

l_088d898960360c02502359e5e137e6c8.jpg


Broke right where the neck down is.
 

Crinco

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber
Thing is, it is so much easier to replace "outer" stuff than "inner" on the trail, unless you just plan to fix when you get back to camp. My weak link in the front "should be" my lock-out hub. The only breakage that will ruin my day is a R&P break. I have spare inners and joints, but no outer shaft or lockout. I also dont have a spare R&P :)

The 78 and 79 ford inners are very weak, but I think the rest hold up pretty well, if you have spares at least back at camp then you might be ok for a while.

CR
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Thing is, it is so much easier to replace "outer" stuff than "inner" on the trail, unless you just plan to fix when you get back to camp. My weak link in the front "should be" my lock-out hub. The only breakage that will ruin my day is a R&P break. I have spare inners and joints, but no outer shaft or lockout. I also dont have a spare R&P :)

The 78 and 79 ford inners are very weak, but I think the rest hold up pretty well, if you have spares at least back at camp then you might be ok for a while.

CR

From what I've seen on 60 outer breakage (taking out the spindle and other items), I'll stick with inner shaft breakage over outer.
 

Crinco

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber
I agree with that, when the outers let loose they can do all kinds of damage. That's why I am hoping my Hubs go first and nothing else.....
CR
 
I agree with that, when the outers let loose they can do all kinds of damage. That's why I am hoping my Hubs go first and nothing else.....
CR

yep that's why i run the stock hubs. im hopping they will go first, kinda like a fuse. three hard years on the stock 30 spline, stock non neck down and the long side i had it cut and re-splined. specs are 39'' iroks and a 4.0/700r, jason.
 
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