Engine/Drivetrain Swap 91 tracker ---> Vortec 4.3

[abhaulr1]

if im not mistaken, when you do an engine swap the emissions are that of your year of motor not the year of the vehicle. that is why you cannot install an older engine than the year of your car. like mine is a 97' and has to have an obd2 port to read the codes.
Dwayne

 

[big cherokee]

exactly mine is a 94 so they still run the sniffer on the tail pipe but is a 10 year newer motor so i dont have a problem passing.

 

[NoTrax]

Am I shooting for a non obd 2? or obd2? I have a line on some donors with WJ, I wanted to make sure I can get a motor I can have the least headaches with. I know I am in for a long run on this but I want to avoid as many obstacles as I can. I am pretty excited just to have a project to work on

 

[big cherokee]

either way works i still wired in my dlc connector so i can scan for faults.


the newer 95 on motors are actually easier to wire they say just make sure you get the fuel pump and ecm, as the fuel pump to run these are way expesive and you need 60 psi for the vortec motors.

 

[TRAILRIDER12]

I just put a 4.3 and th350 in my old cj7 with a painless harness, it was a pos
some leads too long (easy to fix) many too short (not easy), if i had it to do again i would use an oem harness and strip out the stuff you do not need. And not pay the money for the pos.

 

[abhaulr1]

how bout an update, hows things going, maybe some pics...
Dwayne

 

[littlecars]

Hi guys,

I am doing a 1998 4.3/4l60e swap. toyota 4.7:1 23 spine transfere case. If you are thinking about doing a toyota t-case also consider the fact the the output shaft on the tranny needs to be replaced. I changed mine myself and rebiult the tranny whil I was at it. I would not do this myself again. It is a lot of work!!! I think a shop will charge about $300 for the output shaft to be replaced.

I am biulding my own harness also. It is a lot of work. The hard part is not biulding it. the hard part is finding the information. I would not even consider making my own harness without the entire donor car. I am piecing mine together without the car and it has been a nightmair!!! Thats why I am hear!

I have a ton of information there are just a few little thing I have questions on:

If we help eachother, both of are conversions will go a lot better?

1. Are you keeping the Body control modual for the VATS? you either need the modual or have to flash out the VATS? I an having the VATS flashed out in mine.

2. The PCM(powertrain control modual) has a input for the Brake signal. I think it is set up for a positive power when the ignition is on then when you hit the breaks the power is cut to the input( I think it is pin 10 on the PCM. I think it is also for the criuse control if you decide to use it.

3. are you using the EGR? Pin 16 on the PCM is for "EGR" control. are you doing anything with the pin? I think you can just cut that wire off.

4. pin 19 is for "4wd lock input". I think it get a positive power when you put the transfere case in 4wd?

5. pin 20 is for "EGR valve low". are you doing anything with this? I think it can also be cut off.

6. pin 22 is for CPP control. What is CPP. what are you doing with this pin?

7. pin 23 is for "4wd low" signal? I think you put a +12 volt to this whe you are in 4wd low?

Feal free to ask me any questions. I will be happy to answer any of then I can.

Thanks
Brent
Tacoma Washington.

 

[big cherokee]

i am running a vats module unflashed right now so shift points are a little off with 5.29 and 40s. also my set up came from a awd astro van so i had to put a np 241 from a early 90s suburban behind it, when im in 4 low i only have first and second gear due to the vats looking for a awd signal not 4 high or low.

the egr i have fully wired, but no valve it clogged up on me 4 times in the parking lot and made the truck run like crap i just built a block off plate and
have a check engine light.

when i get my ecm tuned i will delete the egr, and get the vats corrected for tire size and such.