Front 3-Link Upper Axle side Mount

[RamToy]

Front 3-Link Upper Axle side Mount. ( D60 )

Anyone have any pictures of some good axle mounts ? Looking to get some ideas. Mine broke out at Mini so im looking to change it up a bit. Needs to mount on top of the pumpkin. (Welding to Cast is always fun )

 

[I Lean]

What kind/size of joint are you using at that end of the link?

 

[RamToy]

If i remember right the Hole is 5/8 and the shank is 3/4

 

[jeepspeedtj]

Front 3-Link Upper Axle side Mount. ( D60 )

Anyone have any pictures of some good axle mounts ? Looking to get some ideas. Mine broke out at Mini so im looking to change it up a bit. Needs to mount on top of the pumpkin. (Welding to Cast is always fun )

Why not build a truss so that you do not have to weld to the cast? They look bad A and also work very well!

 

[Kiel]

Ditto on the truss, some type of bridge is in order. Plus it gives it more surface area to spread the load

 

[RamToy]

I had a truss on there.. It was a piece of DOM TUbe with some ear/tabs coming off it for the mount. My first problem is the tubes wall thickness wasnt thick enough and my chinsey design failed. .120 DOM go boom. Split it right open. The truck sits so low that the bottom of the crank pulley sits almost lower then the axle. So the truss and pulley had very a very tight clearance between eachother. When the tube split the axle rolled back it bent my pulley and I lost my pulling which in turn i lost full hydro steering. So i was gonna try and keep it simple by not making a truss and make some sort of box design. So thats why I asked I was looking for Ideas.

 

[jeepspeedtj]

Put up a picture of what we have to work with and that will make it easier for us to through out ideas. and .120 DOM is never enough for suspensions lol.

 

[RamToy]

Put up a picture of what we have to work with and that will make it easier for us to through out ideas. and .120 DOM is never enough for suspensions lol.

Yeah yeah yea.. I knew i would hear it on that one.. Dont know what i was thinking when i first did it.. But it lasted almost 2 years.

 

[I Lean]

If you want to try going without a truss, I had great luck with my mount welded right to the pumpkin. I used the same size heim, and just custom-cut tabs that fit the profile of the diff, from the diff cover all the way down to the pinion bearing area. Those got welded on solidly, then boxed in on the front for more weld area.

That said, depending on how daring you are, welding to the pumpkin may or may not be the best idea.

 

[O'neal]

I welded mine the way I lean described....Although I made a plate to the shape of the diff that ran from the front cover down almost to the yoke and welded it on,then made the link bracket's,welded them to it and then boxed in the front.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I welded mine the way I lean described....Although I made a plate to the shape of the diff that ran from the front cover down almost to the yoke and welded it on,then made the link bracket's,welded them to it and then boxed in the front.

I like this one. You could even go as far as pulling slots in the plate of even more weld area, if you are not confident in your welding. Weld all the way around the outside of the plate, then weld up the slots. Then weld your tabs to the plate.
You should see the picture in my head right now. Your suspension looks sweet this way!

 

[I Lean]

Found some pics of mine--it doesn't extend as far backward as I remembered, but it's still pretty close to what I described.

 

[GOAT]

BTF makes a nice 60 front truss/cover.

 

[RamToy]

If you want to try going without a truss, I had great luck with my mount welded right to the pumpkin. I used the same size heim, and just custom-cut tabs that fit the profile of the diff, from the diff cover all the way down to the pinion bearing area. Those got welded on solidly, then boxed in on the front for more weld area.

That said, depending on how daring you are, welding to the pumpkin may or may not be the best idea.

When I did Dartons Willota.. I welded it straight to the diff identical to what you have.(Of course typical Pre and Post heat ) His has held to up with no problem. He has about as heavy of a foot as me so i know its strong. However mine needs to come off the diff a couple of inches higher so I was looking at making more of a box style. We were kind of having a debate of what size plate to use. He was thinking 3/8" and I was thinking it only had to be 1/4" with it boxed in it SHOULD be strong enough.

When in doubt go 3/8s ?? Or keep it simple and easier to cut/make and do 1/4???

 

[I Lean]

I wouldn't worry at all about the 1/4" steel, any failure will be where the tabs meet the housing. Maximize the contact and weld area, and it won't matter if you use 3/8" or 1/4".

 

[RamToy]

I wouldn't worry at all about the 1/4" steel, any failure will be where the tabs meet the housing. Maximize the contact and weld area, and it won't matter if you use 3/8" or 1/4".

Sweet. Thanks for you help.