Front Ford HP D60 Pinion Angle Help

[Lifelong Jeeper]

I have a '93 F350 front D60 in my ZJ and in order to keep my alignment correct, my pinion doesn't point at my tcase as much as i'd like. I compromised the clocking of my tcase more than I wanted to in order to keep the axle end ujoint from maxing out when on flat ground. (I have a 6" Lift which is the lowest I can go to clear the 37's without extreme mods.) The result is I only have a few inches of drop before it binds. What have you done to correct this on your rigs?

I've debated two possible solutions.

1. Grinding my knuckles off and resetting the angles, and burn them in.
2. Or, worse case scenario, cutting the tubes, sleeving them and rewelding with the correct degrees of caster.

However, I was talking to my brother yesterday about it and he said why not just run a double cardan joint on both ends of the driveline. Is that even possible?

An additional problem is it vibrates when in use if I go fast with my hubs locked in. I never engage 4WD in the snow because it can't handle street driving speeds.

 

[Bart]

I've only used #1 and it works well.

 

[thenag]

http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-products/dana-60-inner-c

http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-...-heavy-duty-dana-60-kingpin-steering-knuckles

might as well upgrade while you are doing it right?

My 96 d60 has custom length tubes on both sides and Advanced 4x4 set the castor when they welded the tubes on. I am not sure exactly what they did but they damn near nailed the castor on a loose axle before the rest of the jeep was even built. Mine does not vibrate with hubs locked, my issue is that my yoke gets pretty close to my oil pan. (I sometimes think I wish I had a Low Pinion axle, then I could get a little more stuff on that side, or if it was an inch wider that take care of it too)


I have seen people run a double cardan on both ends of a DS but I don't know why.

Sorry not much help

Nathan

 

[skippy]

I would rotate my inner Cs if I were you

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

I would rotate my inner Cs if I were you

Really? That's an interesting thought that I haven't heard anything about. What does it accomplish?

 

[Tan Comanche]

You could swap over to a 1410 yoke. They can handle more angularity than the 1350 (which I assume is on there). Obviously the correct answer is #1, but this may buy some time.

 

[Pile of parts]

I think that's what you were referencing when you said, "Grind off your knuckles." The inner C is the part that hold the knuckle. Grind it off, rotate and re-weld.

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

You could swap over to a 1410 yoke. They can handle more angularity than the 1350 (which I assume is on there). Obviously the correct answer is #1, but this may buy some time.

Good thought to buy time.

I think that's what you were referencing when you said, "Grind off your knuckles." The inner C is the part that hold the knuckle. Grind it off, rotate and re-weld.

Ha. Yes that is what I was referencing. I took it too far though and thought that he was saying to rotate them from one side to the other like rotating tires. I couldn't figure out what advantage that would be. Yes, the plan is to grind the C's (not the knuckles) and rotate them a few degrees, and re-weld them. Thanks for waking up my obviously tired brain.

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-products/dana-60-inner-c

http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-...-heavy-duty-dana-60-kingpin-steering-knuckles

might as well upgrade while you are doing it right?

My 96 d60 has custom length tubes on both sides and Advanced 4x4 set the castor when they welded the tubes on. I am not sure exactly what they did but they damn near nailed the castor on a loose axle before the rest of the jeep was even built. Mine does not vibrate with hubs locked, my issue is that my yoke gets pretty close to my oil pan. (I sometimes think I wish I had a Low Pinion axle, then I could get a little more stuff on that side, or if it was an inch wider that take care of it too)


I have seen people run a double cardan on both ends of a DS but I don't know why.

Sorry not much help

Nathan

You're right Nathan that I should upgrade while it's all apart, but I'm building this on the cheap as much as I can.

 

[skippy]

I have never had much luck getting them to roatate, I forget what the actual interferance fit is on factory Dana Axles but its alot. I bet you destroy the inner C before you ever get it rotated. Buy Reids. Whats your caster set at currently?

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

I have never had much luck getting them to roatate, I forget what the actual interferance fit is on factory Dana Axles but its alot. I bet you destroy the inner C before you ever get it rotated. Buy Reids. Whats your caster set at currently?

That's what spurred the thought of cutting the tubes. I've heard that d44's are doable but 60's are nearly impossible.
I set my caster a bit heavy to help with death wobble. IIRC I'm at 7°. I'll have to measure it.

 

[Tan Comanche]

Seriously since it is a budget project, just grab deep D60 1410 yoke and its mate for the driveline side and weld 'em in. If I can remember correctly you can get 28* before they bind. Then your only out a couple hundred bucks and a couple of hours. Reid's would be sick, but they come at a cost...

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

Agreed. Thanks for all the thoughts. I'll post pics of what ever I end up doing.