Guess who....
- Thread starter BlackSheep
- Start date
You started itWow, this got hijacked!..
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
My Lincoln 175 was well under $600. It's not a 210, but will do 95% of what a 210 will.....
You know you need one sometime, may as well be now, right?
Yeah, I know, you are right. I need to spend a little time doing some online shopping. Thing is, I cancelled all my credit cards - except for Sears (got it when I was in the market for appliances).
You know how it is though, the eyes are always bigger than the wallet!
yellowbronco
Cuts Through Grease !!!
- Location
- Moab
There are a few companies that sell "reman" welders for a discount. Typically that means the customer opened the box then sent it back, nothing wrong, just not "new". Watch e-bay too. With a little time invested, I scored a freight-damaged Hobart 180 with a cart for $445 with free shipping! The case was a little out of whack and there is some broken plastic, but it works great!
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
Not quite local to me anymore....
FYI Update for anybody searching about these seized bolts:
Before we used some serious heat, I twisted 2 allen wrenches and 1 allen socket with a 4' breaker... bolt's didn't budge. Put some heat directly on the bolts (oxy acet) for about 5 seconds to soften up the powdercoat underneath the countersink and they practically spun right out.
That powder coat on the pan acts like weld when you tighten those bolts up into it.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
The heat wasn't really necessary... Someone said earlier to use a left cut drill bit, whcih would be perfect. I just use a standard old drill bit large enough to drill the head off. Once the head is gone, you can spin the rest out with your finger - and not even damage the crossmember.
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
I'm in progress on the crossmember. Today I drilled the 1" holes for the side frame bolts. Despite all of the excellent suggestions, I went ahead and purchased a bi-metal hole saw (1" as the directions say), and went to town. I already had the 4 holes in the bottom frame, so I only had to do the 6 on the sides. The hardest part was making sure I center punched the center of the hole.
Once I was comfortable that I had a centered punch, I removed the frame supports, and drilled away. As most of you probably know, the hole saws come with a pilot drill in the center, so I improved on my punch by drilling a small hole (3/32nds maybe). This gave me a very good pilot for the pilot!
Actually cutting the hole was not really hard. I let the hole saw do the work and just concentrated on keeping it straight. The first one was not quite straight, but the remaining 5 went very well.
After drilling the 3 for a side, I supported the crossmember with a jack, removed the crossmember bolts and bolted the frame spacers to the frame support. To check my fitment, I then slid the frame support (with the spacers attached) into the freshly drilled holes. I was able to thread in the bottom bolts, thus I felt confident that the holes were properly aligned. There was a small amount of slop allowed in the frame holes as I did not tighten the spacers fully tight to the frame support. Everything seemed to line up ok, so I'll just have to hope they line up the same way after welding the spacers in place.
Once they are welded in place, I'll do like Wayne suggests and drill the hole on the other side of the frame.
Once I was comfortable that I had a centered punch, I removed the frame supports, and drilled away. As most of you probably know, the hole saws come with a pilot drill in the center, so I improved on my punch by drilling a small hole (3/32nds maybe). This gave me a very good pilot for the pilot!
Actually cutting the hole was not really hard. I let the hole saw do the work and just concentrated on keeping it straight. The first one was not quite straight, but the remaining 5 went very well.
After drilling the 3 for a side, I supported the crossmember with a jack, removed the crossmember bolts and bolted the frame spacers to the frame support. To check my fitment, I then slid the frame support (with the spacers attached) into the freshly drilled holes. I was able to thread in the bottom bolts, thus I felt confident that the holes were properly aligned. There was a small amount of slop allowed in the frame holes as I did not tighten the spacers fully tight to the frame support. Everything seemed to line up ok, so I'll just have to hope they line up the same way after welding the spacers in place.
Once they are welded in place, I'll do like Wayne suggests and drill the hole on the other side of the frame.
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
I missed this statement when I originally read this thread. In fact, the upper rear passenger side control arm mount had this extra space. I did notice the space before I tightened everything up. In order to remove that slop, I put two grade 8 washers in there. Once I did that, things tightened down just fine.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I would have made them send me a new one and a call tag for the defective one.
They have someone new (or just a new design and the old guy can't figure it out, I'm not sure) making these, and their tolerances are way off.
Too late!
I don't see any problems with the washers if it all tightened up nicely, other than it being slightly more difficult to assemble at first.
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
Too Late. By the time I realized the issue, and considering the amount of work it took to get the crossmember in place, I was ready to move on. I have considered calling them to let them know about it, so they can try to improve their quality control. Unless they really beg and give me some kind of incentive, I wouldn't be disassembling this thing before easter, so if they sent me a new piece, I would be returning a used piece.