- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Hauler talk---spitballing a little here but looking for opinions
- Thread starter mbryson
- Start date
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
9' is a common bed length. Sounds good. Thanks for the info.
Basically, I'd like to start with a truck like that, extend the frame (or have it done) and build/modify/buy a flatbed that can hack the Jeep. I'm not an engineer or anything, but think if I do plan on towing, I'd want the rear axle of the truck back further than any stock chassis.
Exactly
I do not claim to be any sort of legal authority on this matter, and the legality of this towing arrangement is the biggest concern.
We've done the rounds in finding the perfect towing setup; tent, slide in camper, enclosed trailer with living quarters... They all had serious drawbacks. Likely the best option remains a custom trailer built by Poulsen Trailers out of Logan. We were close to pulling the trigger on one, but in the end we couldn't justify dropping $35k on a trailer alone.
Last year our setup was an enclosed trailer and a 3/4 ton Duramax. The trailer just didn't cut it for living quarters, so I started doing the research for a replacement. I kept coming back to buckingbronco's solution. I probably read his thread 10 times and decided that's what I wanted to pursue. Now, keep in mind Kami is particular about her trucks. Talking her into having a non lifted flatbed was no easy task. She finally came around, on one condition: It can't be a Ford. I have nothing against Fords, but she just doesn't like their interiors. Lucky for me, 95% of flatbeds on the market are fords.
And so the "research" began. I found a few people talking about this online (Pirate) and most said it was a good idea, but don't even think about it unless you're going bigger than one ton. And of course, medium duty GM trucks have the larger Kodiak cabs. Neat truck, but this is going to be our 2nd vehicle, to be driven on days when we can't carpool to work, or for me to run to the parts store while she's our doing something in our DD. I couldn't see myself pulling into work with a kodiak. A Dodge would have worked, but I only found a few and all were out of my price range. Not to mention difficulty with insurance and registration costs on medium duty trucks.
So that led me to the question, is a 1 ton dually SAFELY and LEGALLY able haul a rig on the back? Well, I see SRW 3/4 tons hauling 10 or 11' truck campers (3500lb+ dry weight) with a boat behind them fairly regularly. So either they're oblivious or they know something I don't (definitely exceeding GVWR). So I turned to the RV forums. Not surprisingly, weight is a frequently discussed topic in those forums. This is one recent, helpful discussion on the matter: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26294650/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm What I found was a truck load of opinions on the subject. In the end, most agree that a door sticker GVWR doesn't hold much legal weight, and you will not be ticketed for being over. I spent some amount of time thumbing through the Utah Code regarding Motor Vehicles, and didn't find anything on the subject. After I purchased our truck, I took it to the DMV and they asked if I wanted to keep the 20k pound GVWR rating on truck. This truck was used as a work truck, and apparently they had registered it over weight. While insuring the truck, I verified with my insurance company that it was registered to 20k pounds, which exceeded the GVWR. I told them I may exceed the GVWR, but according to the registration that was within my legal rights. I asked if I would have any problems with insuring the truck in an accident where I exceeded GVWR, and I was surprised that the answer was NO.
In the end, we picked up a 1 ton GMC 3500 with 130,000 miles for $14k. After selling our DMAX for $20k and our enclosed for $3k, we were able to pick up a pretty nice 18' lightweight RV (450-500lb tongue weight) for $10k. Almost broke even
I added the extension, pretty much identical to buckingbronco's and sought advice from Mac's Tie Downs. I worked with one of their guys that helped me come up with the best solution for tying it down. We ended up using a strap over each tire with blocks that bite into the tire. They were an awesome company to work with.
So, how does it drive? With the RV in tow, I feel like this is a safer arrangement than most of the previous setups we have had. I can stop faster with this than I could my Dmax and enclosed. I am more stable than with the slide in truck camper (not surprising, DRW makes a HUGE difference in towing). Yes, the front end feels lighter, but not to the point that I feel unsafe. Yes, I absolutely dread towing through my first snow storm with the whole setup. All said and done, we are VERY happy with this arrangement. I need to fix the airbags (leaky) and swap out the rear leaf springs with a higher rating, and it will probably ride like a Cadillac.
I wish I had a more current picture with the whole setup. This is as I was building the extension:
We've done the rounds in finding the perfect towing setup; tent, slide in camper, enclosed trailer with living quarters... They all had serious drawbacks. Likely the best option remains a custom trailer built by Poulsen Trailers out of Logan. We were close to pulling the trigger on one, but in the end we couldn't justify dropping $35k on a trailer alone.
Last year our setup was an enclosed trailer and a 3/4 ton Duramax. The trailer just didn't cut it for living quarters, so I started doing the research for a replacement. I kept coming back to buckingbronco's solution. I probably read his thread 10 times and decided that's what I wanted to pursue. Now, keep in mind Kami is particular about her trucks. Talking her into having a non lifted flatbed was no easy task. She finally came around, on one condition: It can't be a Ford. I have nothing against Fords, but she just doesn't like their interiors. Lucky for me, 95% of flatbeds on the market are fords.
And so the "research" began. I found a few people talking about this online (Pirate) and most said it was a good idea, but don't even think about it unless you're going bigger than one ton. And of course, medium duty GM trucks have the larger Kodiak cabs. Neat truck, but this is going to be our 2nd vehicle, to be driven on days when we can't carpool to work, or for me to run to the parts store while she's our doing something in our DD. I couldn't see myself pulling into work with a kodiak. A Dodge would have worked, but I only found a few and all were out of my price range. Not to mention difficulty with insurance and registration costs on medium duty trucks.
So that led me to the question, is a 1 ton dually SAFELY and LEGALLY able haul a rig on the back? Well, I see SRW 3/4 tons hauling 10 or 11' truck campers (3500lb+ dry weight) with a boat behind them fairly regularly. So either they're oblivious or they know something I don't (definitely exceeding GVWR). So I turned to the RV forums. Not surprisingly, weight is a frequently discussed topic in those forums. This is one recent, helpful discussion on the matter: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26294650/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm What I found was a truck load of opinions on the subject. In the end, most agree that a door sticker GVWR doesn't hold much legal weight, and you will not be ticketed for being over. I spent some amount of time thumbing through the Utah Code regarding Motor Vehicles, and didn't find anything on the subject. After I purchased our truck, I took it to the DMV and they asked if I wanted to keep the 20k pound GVWR rating on truck. This truck was used as a work truck, and apparently they had registered it over weight. While insuring the truck, I verified with my insurance company that it was registered to 20k pounds, which exceeded the GVWR. I told them I may exceed the GVWR, but according to the registration that was within my legal rights. I asked if I would have any problems with insuring the truck in an accident where I exceeded GVWR, and I was surprised that the answer was NO.
In the end, we picked up a 1 ton GMC 3500 with 130,000 miles for $14k. After selling our DMAX for $20k and our enclosed for $3k, we were able to pick up a pretty nice 18' lightweight RV (450-500lb tongue weight) for $10k. Almost broke even
I added the extension, pretty much identical to buckingbronco's and sought advice from Mac's Tie Downs. I worked with one of their guys that helped me come up with the best solution for tying it down. We ended up using a strap over each tire with blocks that bite into the tire. They were an awesome company to work with. So, how does it drive? With the RV in tow, I feel like this is a safer arrangement than most of the previous setups we have had. I can stop faster with this than I could my Dmax and enclosed. I am more stable than with the slide in truck camper (not surprising, DRW makes a HUGE difference in towing). Yes, the front end feels lighter, but not to the point that I feel unsafe. Yes, I absolutely dread towing through my first snow storm with the whole setup. All said and done, we are VERY happy with this arrangement. I need to fix the airbags (leaky) and swap out the rear leaf springs with a higher rating, and it will probably ride like a Cadillac.
I wish I had a more current picture with the whole setup. This is as I was building the extension:
This is a neat setup. Super clean.
Physically higher, maybe not, but the center of gravity on truck campers is pretty low.
Moving the rear axle back on mine would really help the front end weight... Maybe a project for next winter
SPECIAL ED
Yellow Helmet boy
- Location
- Utah
I bought this 1999 7.3L for $5300 from state surplus has 154,000 .
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
I have been looking pretty hard at old big-block C60/70's, old hay haulers and stuff-- 12' beds on most of them, weight ratings way above what I need, etc, and maybe a couple hundred bucks more than a suitable trailer. It's pretty tempting. I am watchign this thread with keen interest.
LT.
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Los Alamos, New Mexico
Sprueitt is looking to sell his 5500 Duramax. I dont know if it would be something that would work for you or not but, it maybe worth a look anyways. ChestonScout also had a larger version of Bucking Broncos set up. I think he really liked the set up but got rid of it because it just sat most of the time. Having a vehicle with just one purpose is difficult to deal with.
I think all of us have been in your shoes. This is a common enough problem anyways. I dont know what is the best option for you. I know what works for us.
LT.
I think all of us have been in your shoes. This is a common enough problem anyways. I dont know what is the best option for you. I know what works for us.
LT.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
That's quite a bit of what I'm looking for
I'd love to snag his 5500 Duramax, but I've only got about $5-10k.... I'm pretty sure he's not going there but if he is, I'm first in line
I was trying to scrape up enough $ for Cheston's when he sold it but just couldn't convince myself I wanted to spend that much for something I would use that little.I've tried multiple solutions and haven't hit on one that works well enough for me yet. A flatbed truck (self-propelled trailer
) that can tow a camp trailer or a motorhome with a streetable Jeep seem to be the best solution that'll cover all the bases for me. Neither the motorhome or the flatbed are going to rack up a LOT of miles (say 2-5k per year?) so I really don't want to throw down a huge chunk for a truck that'll only get used that much.
ChestonScout
opinions are like Jeeps..
- Location
- Clinton, Ut
Mine was perfect for me. I loved it and I miss it everytime I go out.
Im fine with a dedicated rig that just sits. BUT I couldnt justify the 600 a month it was costing me to just sit. Between the payment, insurance and whatnot. Plus when the economy tanked, so did my profits in construction. It had to go but I wish i still had it. It would be paid off now and I would be loving life.
I am always keeping an eye out for something cheaper that would serve the same purpose. Needs to be crew cab, be able haul the Scout on the bed, and pull a camp trailer behind. It will happen again!
Im fine with a dedicated rig that just sits. BUT I couldnt justify the 600 a month it was costing me to just sit. Between the payment, insurance and whatnot. Plus when the economy tanked, so did my profits in construction. It had to go but I wish i still had it. It would be paid off now and I would be loving life.
I am always keeping an eye out for something cheaper that would serve the same purpose. Needs to be crew cab, be able haul the Scout on the bed, and pull a camp trailer behind. It will happen again!
Found this, thought you may like it
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=23868528&cat=&lpid=1&search=Winch&ad_cid=11
ChestonScout
opinions are like Jeeps..
- Location
- Clinton, Ut
if it was a crew cab....it would be mine!
LT.
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Los Alamos, New Mexico
I've tried multiple solutions and haven't hit on one that works well enough for me yet. A flatbed truck (self-propelled trailer
I copied a version that Sprueitt and ChestonScout did some years ago. I wanted to eat my cake and have it too. I wanted a tow rig that could be multipurpose, a way to haul my junk in case it broke, and a warm and dry place to stay without breaking the bank like a hotel room would. I ended up with a big flat bed trailer, small pop up camper on the deck with the truck, and a tow rig. Not perfect but, it works well enough.
LT.
That's the downside I see to toters... Everytime you have to tow, you have to situate the living area. A big pain if you are in a place like moab and want to run a couple trails a day with a trail only rig.
I'm looking to go the flatbed hauler route when I choose to get another tow rig. Then a camp trailer behind.
I'm looking to go the flatbed hauler route when I choose to get another tow rig. Then a camp trailer behind.