How much weight does...

[DevinB]

How much weight does a typical DIY beadlock add to a tire/wheel combo? I'm researching tires and I want the weight to be as light as possible to help with breakage. The 37x12.50r17 BFG KM2 weighs 72lbs and the comparable MTR weighs 82lbs. Would a BFG with a beadlocked wheel run roughly the same weight as a MTR non-beadlocked wheel? Is there such thing as DIY aluminum beadlocks? Is it possible to weld steel beadlocks to an aluminum rim? Sorry for the dumb questions, I know nothing of metallurgy.

 

[Caleb]

I bet the DIY rings add 10-15 lbs per wheel pretty easily. This of course depends on if you go with the narrow ring or the mud ring, the mud ring will add a lot more. No, you can't weld aluminum to steel (I've seen it attempted and while it stuck together, the first time a rope was tied to it, it snapped right off, this was on a boat. I honestly don't know how the guy even got them to stick together).

 

[DevinB]

But you can weld aluminum to aluminum, right? Does anyone make aluminum beadlock kits? I remember seeing a group of guys on pirate4x4 making beadlock rings for H2 rims, which I believe are aluminum. I'd like to get my wheel/tire combo as light as possible.

 

[Herzog]

I wouldn't worry about it too much. The benefit of the beadlocks far out-weight (no pun) the weight issue at hand. And besides, it's consistent central weight that doesn't really add weighted leverage like a meatier or taller tire would.

 

[Caleb]

I wouldn't worry about it too much. The benefit of the beadlocks far out-weight (no pun) the weight issue at hand. And besides, it's consistent central weight that doesn't really add weighted leverage like a meatier or taller tire would.

I agree with Herzog, the benefits far outweigh the extra weight.

FWIW, yes, there are a few companies making DIY aluminum kits. You do have to be able to weld aluminum though. (Have the equipment and the ability to do so).

 

[1993yj]

It sounds like you are worried about weight for snapping axles? For running 37's I have to assume you are at least running D44's. With that said, my brother runs 37 MTR's with beadlocks on D44's, and he was breaking shafts every time he would go out until he upgraded to cromo shafts. I personally don't think that the beadlocks had much to do with the issue, mainly just tire size.

 

[Herzog]

It sounds like you are worried about weight for snapping axles? For running 37's I have to assume you are at least running D44's. With that said, my brother runs 37 MTR's with beadlocks on D44's, and he was breaking shafts every time he would go out until he upgraded to cromo shafts. I personally don't think that the beadlocks had much to do with the issue, mainly just tire size.

Another factor might be that he is able to air down a lot more with beadlocks creating more traction and busted parts.

 

[DevinB]

Yeah, I've got a waggy D44 w/ stock shafts. I drive very conservatively though, I think I'll be able to make them last. That's why I'm worried about weight, I know it's not the strongest axle to be running 37's on but I think I can make it work for a while.

 

[Caleb]

Yeah, I've got a waggy D44 w/ stock shafts. I drive very conservatively though, I think I'll be able to make them last. That's why I'm worried about weight, I know it's not the strongest axle to be running 37's on but I think I can make it work for a while.

ask Herzog about making 44s last

 

[leorn]

I know this is mentioned every time beadlocks are discussed, but stauns. They are light, but also if/when you change to 8-lug you can transfer the stauns as long as you stay with the same diameter rim.

 

[Meat_]

Do yourself a big fat favor and forget the idea of running 37's on D44s If you are dead set, you should go aluminum. If you go aluminum you should just pony up and buy some Walker Evans or the like.