General Tech How would you build a rear steer axle?

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
I 100% disagree with this. I rely on my return to center completely.

Rear steer can get you in trouble in a hurry.

SUPER slow crawling it is not as important but I still use it. Moving at any speed at all it makes you look like a way better driver than you actually are.

Leroy makes a simple kit that runs with a cable connected to the axle and the sensing unit can be put anywhere. It has been flawless for 8 years.

I agree with cheston, especially when i wanted to scoot home at mach jesus. click the button and haul booty. rear steer tends to wander like an orbital. the rtc takes that away
 

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
I appreciate all the input, gives me some good direction! Still not a 14 Bolt guy, this will be for a smaller/lighter trail rig so no need for overkill IMO.
if you're pumping a V6 rig that's all gears and such then yeah a 60 would hold with skill and proper line choosing 🤌 all in the driver in the end.. i plan to do some methed up psycho trailer park shiz with mine during the boring moments on a trail so yeah 14b minimum for me.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
if you're pumping a V6 rig that's all gears and such then yeah a 60 would hold with skill and proper line choosing 🤌 all in the driver in the end.. i plan to do some methed up psycho trailer park shiz with mine during the boring moments on a trail so yeah 14b minimum for me.

4 cyl Ecotec actually. 🤏
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
I would feel bad if I didn't give a little shout out to JHF portals. You're welcome to skip it. With knowing Jesse for years and helping him move portal parts all over to comp sites we've had a lot of discussions about affordability. It surprises people that they're not really that expensive. Do they compare in price to a JY axle with a welded diff? No. But their performance and strength doesn't compare either.
He posted this today to lay it out. Price is for one.

"I’ve had a lot of people tell me they believed building portal axles was way out of their budget. Often times they’re surprised that it’s much more affordable than they realized. I put together a price comparison for a few different axle options. I’ve tried to keep this as “apples to apples” as possible. Each option includes everything you need to build a complete high pinion front differential with 4340 axle shafts/joints. The Currie and Dynatrac axles aren’t offered with lightweight rotors or Wilwood calipers. The Spidertrax and 74WELD axles have 40 spline shafts, which is logical if you’re spending that much money."

JHF Modified HMMWV Portal 9”
TG (Trail Gear) Housing - $860
Complete outers - $4500
RCV 3899 CV’s - $800
Branik 4340 inners - $800
9” diff with locker - $1800
$8760

Trail Gear 60/9”
Complete roller kit - $4700
Branik 35 spline shaft set - $3000
10” diff with locker - $3600
$11300

Currie Dana HP60, complete with locker, Branik shafts and joints
$12350

JHF New Portal 9”
TG Housing - $860
Complete outers - $6750
Branik 1480 shaft set - $3000
9” diff with locker - $1800
$12410

Reid Kingpin 60/9”
TG housing - $860
Complete outers - $5540
Branik 1480 shaft set - $3000
10” diff with locker - $3600
$13000

Dynatrac Dana HP60, complete with locker, Branik shafts and joints
$13060
Spidertrax 40 Spline 9”
Ultimate housing - $1280
Complete outers - $5600
40 spline shaft set - $5500
10” diff with spool - $3600
$15980

74WELD Portal 9”
Spidertrax housing - $1280
Complete outers - $12810
Inner shafts/joints - $3350
10” diff with spool - $3600
$21040
 
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Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I would feel bad if I didn't give a little shout out to JHF portals. You're welcome to skip it. With knowing Jesse for years and helping him move portal parts all over to comp sites we've had a lot of discussions about affordability. It surprises people that they're not really that expensive. Do they compare in price to a JY axle with a welded diff? No. But their performance and strength doesn't compare either.
He posted this today to lay it out. Price is for one.

"I’ve had a lot of people tell me they believed building portal axles was way out of their budget. Often times they’re surprised that it’s much more affordable than they realized. I put together a price comparison for a few different axle options. I’ve tried to keep this as “apples to apples” as possible. Each option includes everything you need to build a complete high pinion front differential with 4340 axle shafts/joints. The Currie and Dynatrac axles aren’t offered with lightweight rotors or Wilwood calipers. The Spidertrax and 74WELD axles have 40 spline shafts, which is logical if you’re spending that much money."

JHF Modified HMMWV Portal 9”
TG (Trail Gear) Housing - $860
Complete outers - $4500
RCV 3899 CV’s - $800
Branik 4340 inners - $800
9” diff with locker - $1800
$8760

Trail Gear 60/9”
Complete roller kit - $4700
Branik 35 spline shaft set - $3000
10” diff with locker - $3600
$11300

Currie Dana HP60, complete with locker, Branik shafts and joints
$12350

JHF New Portal 9”
TG Housing - $860
Complete outers - $6750
Branik 1480 shaft set - $3000
9” diff with locker - $1800
$12410

Reid Kingpin 60/9”
TG housing - $860
Complete outers - $5540
Branik 1480 shaft set - $3000
10” diff with locker - $3600
$13000

Dynatrac Dana HP60, complete with locker, Branik shafts and joints
$13060
Spidertrax 40 Spline 9”
Ultimate housing - $1280
Complete outers - $5600
40 spline shaft set - $5500
10” diff with spool - $3600
$15980

74WELD Portal 9”
Spidertrax housing - $1280
Complete outers - $12810
Inner shafts/joints - $3350
10” diff with spool - $3600
$21040

Thanks for sharing, I'd love to be able to afford portals but there's simply no way nor a need for them, for my uses.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
anyways back on topic, whats the choice of housing?

Thanks for trying to rerail the thread, not a fan of hijacking tech threads.

Probably a rear D60U, smooth bottom standard rotation axle with plenty of locker options for 40 spline shafts.

Can be found in newer Ford E350 vans in semi or full float, should be enough tube to cut ends off, have the needed width to add SD knuckles. Not sure on tube size, I'm sure I could sleeve the axle tube if I have to.

I like the fabricated Ford 9" idea, but think I'd prefer the D60 R&P.
 

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
Thanks for trying to rerail the thread, not a fan of hijacking tech threads.

Probably a rear D60U, smooth bottom standard rotation axle with plenty of locker options for 40 spline shafts.

Can be found in newer Ford E350 vans in semi or full float, should be enough tube to cut ends off, have the needed width to add SD knuckles. Not sure on tube size, I'm sure I could sleeve the axle tube if I have to.

I like the fabricated Ford 9" idea, but think I'd prefer the D60 R&P.

I really debated the 9" stuff myself for mine cause it has tons of aftermarket support plus the pinion support bearing and the smaller packaging, but the 60 is just as common & just as well researched/supported 👌 you could do the 60/70 internals to get some beefier gears n such too

 
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Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I just learned that Eaton builds a 40 spine E-locker for the Dana 70, this makes me want to use a Dana 70U for my rear steer axle, instead of a Dana 60. You all know how I like my Dana 70U! 😉


Looks like it retails at $1700.

 

Agility Customs

Well-Known Member
Vendor
I just learned that Eaton builds a 40 spine E-locker for the Dana 70, this makes me want to use a Dana 70U for my rear steer axle, instead of a Dana 60. You all know how I like my Dana 70U! 😉


Looks like it retails at $1700.


I like it but in an ecotec powered light weight car you dont need 40 spline stuff. That adds alot of weight and loss of ground clearance and 40 spline stuff is costly.

In my old ecotec powered 2 seat car I had it bound up so hard one time I was full throttle in low range and nothing was spinning and nothing broke either. That was running 35 spline 4340 shafts. Just playing devils advocate here.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I like it but in an ecotec powered light weight car you dont need 40 spline stuff. That adds alot of weight and loss of ground clearance and 40 spline stuff is costly.

In my old ecotec powered 2 seat car I had it bound up so hard one time I was full throttle in low range and nothing was spinning and nothing broke either. That was running 35 spline 4340 shafts. Just playing devils advocate here.

Good to know! I think at that point, the joint size becomes the most important factor. 1550 joints and 4340 35 spline shafts are affordable and beefy for sure. I just want it to be 100% reliable on the trail.

There's a chance the Ecotec might get turned up to 300-350 HP or so in the future, while it's no LS3 I'd be concerned about the overall torque being applied to the parts at that point.
 

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
Good to know! I think at that point, the joint size becomes the most important factor. 1550 joints and 4340 35 spline shafts are way more affordable for sure. I just want it to be 100% reliable on the trail.

There's a chance the Ecotec might get turned up to 300-350 HP or so in the future, while it's no LS3 I'd be concerned about the overall torque being applied to the parts at that point.

The boys n I have come to the conclusion that at least 84% of the time a shaft gets taken out, its from a cheap joint. definitely go big and quality
 

J Kimmel

Registered User

Trail gear 9" sections are on sale...
View attachment 166742
I picked up my housings and joints and a host of other items pretty significantly reduced last year for Black Friday. Branik had buy 3 get one free for 1550 legacy joints, drive flanges were like 20% off etc.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Just to follow this up, I've now heard of two local buddies that have had rear steer Dana 60's with V8's and big (42's), sticky tires that have broken pinions. I don't know that steering has anything to do with the breakage, but it's worth noting if someone is planning to build a rear steer axle and put that kind of time & money into it. Maybe a shaved 14 Bolt is the best option for rear steer with a V8 & big stickies?
 

Agility Customs

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Just to follow this up, I've now heard of two local buddies that have had rear steer Dana 60's with V8's and big (42's), sticky tires that have broken pinions. I don't know that steering has anything to do with the breakage, but it's worth noting if someone is planning to build a rear steer axle and put that kind of time & money into it. Maybe a shaved 14 Bolt is the best option for rear steer with a V8 & big stickies?
Where is the pinion breaking? Is it snapping off the head? or just removing teeth off of the pinion?
 
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