ignition problems???
- Thread starter Caleb
- Start date
gijohn40
too poor to wheel... :(
- Location
- Layton, Utah
when you say that you have spark and you tested by the screw driver to ground method... how far apart was the screwdriver to the ground? if you have just a small spark it might not be enough to start the beast but ifyou can hold it at least 1/4 inch apart you should have plenty of spark...
Did you check the gas? maybe someone watered it down really good....
next suggestion would be get a ford!! lol (that should envolke the riot act)
Did you check the gas? maybe someone watered it down really good....
next suggestion would be get a ford!! lol (that should envolke the riot act)
it was atleast a 1/4" and even at that distance the spark was really good. The only problem with it being bad/watered down gas is that it should still fire on starter fluid and it won't even do that :-\
My Dad is already planning on getting it running and then selling it...anyone wanna buy a 95 S-10
put a timing light on it. crank it see where the timing is.if its off then there is a distributor problem. see if the distributor hold down bolt is loose, allowing the distributor to rotate.
check the cat, if broken and plugging the outlet, it wont run, or even fire.
check the cat, if broken and plugging the outlet, it wont run, or even fire.
the only thing that i can think of is a bad coolant temp sensor it might be telling the computer that is extremly cold and flooding the motor when you try and start it
Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause:
A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.
Correction:
Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause:
A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.
Correction:
Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Have you checked for trouble codes?
huh, that's interesting and sounds like it could be the cause.
haven't checked for codes, but the CES light isn't on.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
On Chrysler vehicles you can pull the codes without a reader by turning the key off and on a certain number of times. It's helped me track down problems several times. Any idea if you can do that with this one? No light doesn't mean no codes.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
Have you checked for the correct firing order????? You've done a lot with the cap/wires and maybe this is a self induced problem and completely unrelated to the thing dieing at the store. ...Maybe replacing all of the parts fixed that.
yeah, I've checked and checked again that everything is correct and it is...That was the first thing I checked when it didn't fire after replacing everything.
the cat is <6 months old
I think I'm throwing in the towel on this one and having my dad take it to a mechanic. I may go buy a code reader tomorrow (only $30 at Vatozone) to make sure there aren't any codes stored...
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
bobmed
- - - -
- Location
- sugarliberty
Sent ya a pm
what color was the spark?
blue/white is good
any other color is bad; even if it does jump 2" . this will not fire the plug under compression, resulting in a no start condition.this would indicate a bad coil/low voltage at the coil situation. could also be a bad module.the module switches voltage to the coil, if the internals develop a higher than nominal resistance, the coil will appear to have weak spark.
i had this problem on a nissan sentra. spark would jump 2" but was orange. no start condition. replaced the nissan "power module" , and all was good again.
blue/white is good
any other color is bad; even if it does jump 2" . this will not fire the plug under compression, resulting in a no start condition.this would indicate a bad coil/low voltage at the coil situation. could also be a bad module.the module switches voltage to the coil, if the internals develop a higher than nominal resistance, the coil will appear to have weak spark.
i had this problem on a nissan sentra. spark would jump 2" but was orange. no start condition. replaced the nissan "power module" , and all was good again.
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that's intersting, the spark at the coil is blue/white but the coil at the end of the plug (if I remember correctly) what more orangish...would that indicate coil or the module?
so at the coil is blue/white and at the spark plug is orangish ?
if thats the case then there may be a high resistance in between the coil and the plug.recheck that, you may have a weak coil/low voltage situation. or check voltage at the b+ terminal on the distributor/module. should be a minimum of 10V (FSM spec), 12V is much better. also check the terminals on/in the cap/module for corrosion/dirt.as i recall this one has the coil either in the cap, or on the passenger side under the air filter ass'y. check all connections for corrosion/dirt;including using a ohmmeter on all ground circuits.use emery cloth and brake/electrical cleaner to clean connections. other than possibly replacing the coil, these are "free" checks as they only take time, no cash.
one last thing on voltage, check cranking voltage, battery should stay above 10.5V while cranking, less will not fire the plugs.clean terminals and retry if needed.
/*edit*/ also check the battery for ac voltage. this will confuse the computer and make it do strange things , indicates a bad alternator (blown diode).
if thats the case then there may be a high resistance in between the coil and the plug.recheck that, you may have a weak coil/low voltage situation. or check voltage at the b+ terminal on the distributor/module. should be a minimum of 10V (FSM spec), 12V is much better. also check the terminals on/in the cap/module for corrosion/dirt.as i recall this one has the coil either in the cap, or on the passenger side under the air filter ass'y. check all connections for corrosion/dirt;including using a ohmmeter on all ground circuits.use emery cloth and brake/electrical cleaner to clean connections. other than possibly replacing the coil, these are "free" checks as they only take time, no cash.
one last thing on voltage, check cranking voltage, battery should stay above 10.5V while cranking, less will not fire the plugs.clean terminals and retry if needed.
/*edit*/ also check the battery for ac voltage. this will confuse the computer and make it do strange things , indicates a bad alternator (blown diode).
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- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Did you ever figure out the problem Caleb?