I posted this elsewhere, but thought I would share here. I am just stoked to finally have a tow rig!!! It all started because my ball joints went bad, so I figured while I was there...
Parts list and notes:
Tools:
9/16 drill bit (drill press would be nice, but I didn't use one)
snap ring pliers
sledge
ball joint press w/4x4 adapter set
punch
ford knuckle bearing socket (4-prong)
a few blocks of wood
breaker bar
3/8" threaded rod if you want to replace the spindle bearings
very small screwdriver
propane torch
brake cleaner
pb blaster
torque wrench
Process is:
Notes:
cost:
$150 complete 97 ttb dana 50 axle to my door (broken stub and u-joint)
$155 (2) dana 60 shafts
$120 (2) 1979 f250 rotors
$100 (approx) in buying the nuts, bits, a couple seals etc that needed replacing. I did not replace every bearing and seal. Most were in good condition.
Other options:
ford Dana 60 spindles can be used and will work with the stock rotors without a spacer supposedly.
You can swap the entire knuckle from a ford balljoint dana 60 and also use the larger ford dual piston brakes and rotors. (the preferred route, but a bit more money for 60 parts)
Edit:
It was time to change brakes which always seems to require rotors for me, since I had the rotors and brakes from the dana 50, I bought some used ford knuckles for $200. For about the same cost of new pads and rotors I had the huge ford brakes.
Now that I have done both, there is no question that you should due the knuckle/brake swap. Well worth it! Also the hubs lock in better. I ended up having to run snap rings on the shaft before.
I also did a cad delete/single shaft upgrade at the same time that I really liked. I was surprised to have to drop the carrier!
Parts list and notes:
- spindles out of a ball joint (91-98) ford F250-350 with (look for the large lock out hubs as this is a sign of the right stuff)
- 1979 ford F 250 4x4 brake rotors Raybestos 6084R (allows the dodge brake calipers to work with out a spacer between the hub and rotor) The stock dodge rotors will work with a spacer.
- New bearings,seals,u joints for the ford front end they are the same for a lot of years between Ford Dodge & GM.
- (8) gr10.9 m14x1.5 nuts to mount the ford spindle to the stock dodge bolts.
- (2) Ford 92-98 dana 60 outer shafts (78-91 may work but you will have to grind slot for the outer snap ring) I used a 78-79 shaft and did this on one side
Tools:
9/16 drill bit (drill press would be nice, but I didn't use one)
snap ring pliers
sledge
ball joint press w/4x4 adapter set
punch
ford knuckle bearing socket (4-prong)
a few blocks of wood
breaker bar
3/8" threaded rod if you want to replace the spindle bearings
very small screwdriver
propane torch
brake cleaner
pb blaster
torque wrench
Process is:
- Remove all dodge components down to the knuckles.
- remove stub shaft from inner and attach dana 60 shaft.
- drill the Ford spindle to the 4 bolt dodge pattern. (Ford is 5)
- insert axle shaft and support u-joint with rags to save the seal.
- bolt cleaned spindle to dodge knuckle
- hammer out wheel studs from ford rotor/hub.
- hammer/press wheel studs into 79 Ford rotor
- bolt on remaining ford parts
Notes:
- The U-joint snap rings were a pain, but persistence finally paid off. I used a screwdriver and sledge. I'm sure there is a special snap ring plier for this.
- Be very precise in drilling the spindle. If the holes are off the spindle can't press in. I ended up needing to enlarge a couple of holes slightly with a cutting bit to make it work. It also helps to clean up the spindle and knuckle with a wire wheel.
- To remove the spindle bearings tighten two nuts around a washer or two on the 3/8" rod. Insert through the hub end and use a hammer to persuade it out. Note the depth of the bearing. It does not press all the way in. (if you are replacing them)
- Remember heat always helps break loose stubborn hardware.
- I used the socket extension method to push the unit bearing out of the knuckle. It was nice to have a helper turn the wheel. I did not need to turn on the vehicle to do mine.
- It took a lot longer than I anticipated due to all the little things I ended up needing plus the u-joints and reaming.
- Definitely feels a lot better on the test drive. I can feel that there is less drag when I am rolling. Glad its done, but worth it!
- I think the dana 50 ford rotors would work if you are willing to cut up your knuckle and remove the castings around the brake caliper, but that was not something I wanted to do. I don't know if they would clear the back of the caliper though since they are larger diameter.
- dana 50 stubs will not work. at least not my 97 axle. U-joints are smaller.
cost:
$150 complete 97 ttb dana 50 axle to my door (broken stub and u-joint)
$155 (2) dana 60 shafts
$120 (2) 1979 f250 rotors
$100 (approx) in buying the nuts, bits, a couple seals etc that needed replacing. I did not replace every bearing and seal. Most were in good condition.
Other options:
ford Dana 60 spindles can be used and will work with the stock rotors without a spacer supposedly.
You can swap the entire knuckle from a ford balljoint dana 60 and also use the larger ford dual piston brakes and rotors. (the preferred route, but a bit more money for 60 parts)
Edit:
It was time to change brakes which always seems to require rotors for me, since I had the rotors and brakes from the dana 50, I bought some used ford knuckles for $200. For about the same cost of new pads and rotors I had the huge ford brakes.
Now that I have done both, there is no question that you should due the knuckle/brake swap. Well worth it! Also the hubs lock in better. I ended up having to run snap rings on the shaft before.
I also did a cad delete/single shaft upgrade at the same time that I really liked. I was surprised to have to drop the carrier!
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