Material for sliders?

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I previously used 2" .120 hrew for my sliders...

Bent the crap out of them first good use.


I would be willing to use round, square, rectangle, just want it affordable.

I need something that will hold up to a 5000lb toyota slipping off a rock and falling 3 feet. (thats what killed them last time.)


I had 5 legs off the frame over a 5' span. Im adding fenders bars and eventually an exo to help tie everything together.
 

choptopbII

Well-Known Member
Location
Clearfield, UT
Anything 1/4 wall would be ultra beef... my links are all 1/4 wall and they handle abuse really well. My sliders are only .120 wall and i've only had them on for a year and there already dented to hell...
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Thicker wall than .120 will help, whether round, square, whatever. In the same wall thickness and diameter, DOM will dent less easily than HREW, and chromoly will dent quite a bit less than 1020 DOM.

Depending on how you're making them, pipe might actually be a good choice for you--primarily because it's cheaper, and also usually thicker wall.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I have thought about pipe. My sliders are straight, no reason for bends.

Ill have to see what wasatch has laying around.
 

outlaw_offroad

XJ Pride!!!
Location
North Ogden
I used 3/16" wall 2x4 rectangular tubing on my XJ with two legs back to the unibody. I also added 1/4" 2x2 angle between the legs to bolt/weld to the floor and pinch weld. This works great and has stood up to a ton of abuse. Next time I'll put the sliders on before beating up the rockers!
 

big cherokee

a.r.c fabrication
Location
layton
im probly the only one i have every seen use i beam

im running 1/4in i beam with 2x2x 1/4 legs back to the frame have hit them pretty good the last time i was at little moab, and did not budge, plus used them as a winch point when i rolled my truck.
 

Erik d_lux

Registered User
Location
Murray, UT
I have found a trick that helps you use thinner wall and get away with it. I would still use better than .120 though.

I put some 1" solid on the outside edge of my piece. It helps a TON. Some buddies took my idea and used .25" solid and they are having luck with that. I think I would do .5" solid next time. Its pretty cheap insurance.
 

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Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Thats a good idea.

Well after today at the snakes, I need to to rebuild my sliders...

Not only is the outer tube done, but the legs going to the frame arent capable of supporting the rig.

So heavier wall outer tube, and better tie-ins.
 

big cherokee

a.r.c fabrication
Location
layton



there you go, sliders are the same as always truck has changed a bunch.

they are poked out to make a step and keep the body out of things and work great.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Not sure if the I-beam would look the way I want on the toyota. But just may be perfect for the links on the crew cab!
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
i used 2x6x3/16" from outside at wasatch, i want to say it was $35 for 10' and that was all i needed. i thought about using .120 but the 3/16 was like $5 more is all. the piece i got was clean too, but that is totally hit or miss
 
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