83yota
Member
- Location
- Palmer, AK
i'm looking for a great axle setup on a simi small budget. for my 83 toyota truck. :-\
new at this
- Thread starter 83yota
- Start date
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
what's wrong with the ones you've got?
alwaysxj
one hot moma!!!!
- Location
- Smithfield
i don't know maybe they are toyota and he wants something good. J/K
ya what is wrong with the ones you got?
ya what is wrong with the ones you got?
83yota
Member
- Location
- Palmer, AK
i want something that that when i go with a much bigger motor i want to be able to rely on them without worry
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
you can go up to 40" tires if you brace your current axle and if you run hardened shafts (dirty 30's, bobby longfields, etc)
Zombieblaster
Registered User
You should also check out the Toyota Bible/FAQ on Pirate4x4
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780
There is a literal orgy of information there. I wouldn't throw out the yota axels just yet. The general consensus is that they're good up to 37-40" tires if built right (upgraded birfs, trussed, etc), depending on your driving style.
Depending on your fability (see what i did there?), it could be cheaper/easier to just upgrade what you have.
Or you could just throw tons under it and not worry. Depends on what your wallet can handle (or how good you are at finding deals).
My point is, research before you throw the baby out with the 4 popper bath water.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780
There is a literal orgy of information there. I wouldn't throw out the yota axels just yet. The general consensus is that they're good up to 37-40" tires if built right (upgraded birfs, trussed, etc), depending on your driving style.
Depending on your fability (see what i did there?), it could be cheaper/easier to just upgrade what you have.
Or you could just throw tons under it and not worry. Depends on what your wallet can handle (or how good you are at finding deals).
My point is, research before you throw the baby out with the 4 popper bath water.
Being one of the guys on 39s and toy axles if I did it again I would go 60/14 bolt no question. I would love the width. Width is not a prob in NV, but it can be with the UHP.
My built toy axles have held up very well, but they are beginning to break. I think it is more from expected wear and tear. My buddy with a 4.3 and 37s is also breaking his toy axles. We are both hard on our axles and would be even harder on tons.
My built toy axles have held up very well, but they are beginning to break. I think it is more from expected wear and tear. My buddy with a 4.3 and 37s is also breaking his toy axles. We are both hard on our axles and would be even harder on tons.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
if you're "new to this", run what you have, upgrade as needed.
1\4elliptic toy
shenanigans!
- Location
- The Dark Side
Give me those worthless toy axles and get some ton's! LOL.
83yota
Member
- Location
- Palmer, AK
the info has been somewhat helpful my concern has been when i drop in a 5.7 and dual tc's on 44"s what will take the abuse and laugh in it's face
Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
I'll bite. How much experience do you have with this level of 4wheeling? Looks cool and want to get into it? or been doing it for awhile now and looking to upgrade because you are breaking what you have?
Budget Toyota build with a 5.7 V8 pushing 44's doesn't work in the same sentence :-\ If you want axles for that combo you will need a Dana 60 with chromoly shafts and a 35 spline 1ton rear axle or Rockwell 2.5 tons or something exotic/custom built. Motor swaps are not cheap if you need a doubler you will need the heavy 203/205 because the Toyota cases will NOT hold up. At that point you are into it an enormous amount of time and fabrication. Drive shafts, fuel injection (you really don't want to do all that work and have a carb flood out), transmission, brakes, steering ect...
My advise is wheel what you have and have fun. With a few modifications your Toyota can wheel on some of the toughest trails out there reliably and you will have a lot of fun doing it.
Spork
Tin Foil Hat Equipped
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Sorry I'm confused...
Semi-small budget = 44"s, Dual Cases and a 5.7?
By the time you get 44"s under a Toyota you probably won't be street legal so Tow rig + trailer.
I guess my idea of a small budget is a lot smaller than your idea of a small budget. Actually, I think your idea of a small budget sounds larger than my large budget...
Semi-small budget = 44"s, Dual Cases and a 5.7?
By the time you get 44"s under a Toyota you probably won't be street legal so Tow rig + trailer.
I guess my idea of a small budget is a lot smaller than your idea of a small budget. Actually, I think your idea of a small budget sounds larger than my large budget...
You call yourself a Toyota guy?
haha, I was sarcasm-ing there.
I agree with what's been said by Rotbox. yotas are the shiz when it comes to budget builds that will go just about anywhere, but that's because it doesn't take a whole lot to beef up the stock axles a bit and run 35's, dual cases, 5.29's and STILL be street legal to get to the trail and keep up with most other rigs, again, with the stock 4 banger and the toyota axles. Once you stray from the stock motor and Toy axles, you're no longer in the budget build catergory, and when you're done spending thousands and thousands to throw in the 5.7, 60's or rockwells, all the steering, tranny, doublers, 42's and labor if you're not doing it yourself, even then, I'd put a well built Toy on 37's with built toy axles and the 4 banger up against your toy-zilla and probably do fairly well on most trails/obstacles. Maybe not as fast or loud, but it'd probably make you wish you had spent the last year wheeling a built toyota and spending the extra $$ on other things than spending that year in your garage and that money on your 'zilla.
aaaaaand, I think I'll end my novel here.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
I think the only thing cheaper to build on the cheap than Toyota trucks is GM stuff, and they're 37' wide and weigh 14 tons.
anyway, to the OP: you are confused about your goals, I think. If you're new to it, get out and see what you need after that. 44's on a Toyota??? well, to each his own but ... good luck.
anyway, to the OP: you are confused about your goals, I think. If you're new to it, get out and see what you need after that. 44's on a Toyota??? well, to each his own but ... good luck.
44" tires are for Rockwells.. Or the other way around.
Is this going to be the MiniFoot? Like, Bigfoots little imported cousin?
Even 44" meats powered by a 5.7 will be rough on built 1 tons (D60's). There's a lot to be said about good gearing and quality products, but that's not a budget build. I think Tacoma brings up an excellent question, of, 'what are your goals with this vehicle?'..
Is this going to be the MiniFoot? Like, Bigfoots little imported cousin?
Even 44" meats powered by a 5.7 will be rough on built 1 tons (D60's). There's a lot to be said about good gearing and quality products, but that's not a budget build. I think Tacoma brings up an excellent question, of, 'what are your goals with this vehicle?'..
For super budget and reliability...
35" tires, 2-3" lift, welded rear third member (cheapest of cheap locker system), sliders, t-case skid, bumpers...
Cheap options for suspension setups include but are not limited to, moving the rear springs to the front, 63" Chevy springs in the rear, TrailGear springs (You'll replace those in a year though). You can obtain a 2" lift with simply a 2" longer shackle. Stay away from blocks or add-a-leaf systems, as those will work against you.
If I were on the strapped budget, i'd do welded diffs, spring over the front axle, shackles in the rear to level out truck, 35" tires, hack the fenders, HiSteer, sliders, tcase protection.
^ That's a budget wheeler that you can have fun with and still be well within the reliable spectrum... Once you go to 37"s you want to seriously look at chromoly axles, Long fields and so on.. Also, you would want power steering, which is something you might want to do when you upgraded to HiSteer during phase I anyways. 37"s also bring on the need for lower gearing, 4.88's, or my favorite 5.29's. T-case gears are not essential, but certainly allow you to have more control over power and torque at the tires. Don't get caught up thinking that dual cases is the sh!t either. You can do plenty with a single case with lowered gears. Once you start to get more comfortable in your ability to wheel the rig, you will constantly be pushing yourself.. Think seriously about building a good internal rollcage as early as possible in the evolution of the rig. Safety should always be first and foremost.
There are loads of options with any build.. Hopefully some of my list helps you out with a truly 'budget' build.
-Jason
35" tires, 2-3" lift, welded rear third member (cheapest of cheap locker system), sliders, t-case skid, bumpers...
Cheap options for suspension setups include but are not limited to, moving the rear springs to the front, 63" Chevy springs in the rear, TrailGear springs (You'll replace those in a year though). You can obtain a 2" lift with simply a 2" longer shackle. Stay away from blocks or add-a-leaf systems, as those will work against you.
If I were on the strapped budget, i'd do welded diffs, spring over the front axle, shackles in the rear to level out truck, 35" tires, hack the fenders, HiSteer, sliders, tcase protection.
^ That's a budget wheeler that you can have fun with and still be well within the reliable spectrum... Once you go to 37"s you want to seriously look at chromoly axles, Long fields and so on.. Also, you would want power steering, which is something you might want to do when you upgraded to HiSteer during phase I anyways. 37"s also bring on the need for lower gearing, 4.88's, or my favorite 5.29's. T-case gears are not essential, but certainly allow you to have more control over power and torque at the tires. Don't get caught up thinking that dual cases is the sh!t either. You can do plenty with a single case with lowered gears. Once you start to get more comfortable in your ability to wheel the rig, you will constantly be pushing yourself.. Think seriously about building a good internal rollcage as early as possible in the evolution of the rig. Safety should always be first and foremost.
There are loads of options with any build.. Hopefully some of my list helps you out with a truly 'budget' build.
-Jason
Last edited:
83yota
Member
- Location
- Palmer, AK
you guys drive a strong point and this is definatly a over-time build and thanks for the advise