• DCRC 2024

Jeep No Mo Turbo

TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
Hi from Kansas City! I joined here because I'm getting started on a 5.9 swap into my TJ and found Slangy's thread in my research. I'm using this thread to get questions I need answered since there seems to be a lot of knowledge here.

I've been wheeling a 1999 TJ with a 505 Performance turbo on a 4.0 for some time. It's a 35" tire LCG rig (0" susp, 1" BL) with a custom 4-link rear and soon to be 3-link w/ panhard front. I've had a 2.5L YJ and an LT1 powered CJ on 40s and tons. I got this TJ a few years back because it was somewhat kid friendly...at least moreso than my CJ or YJ ever were. I recently picked up a DD/tow vehicle so I'm ready to go to tons and am swapping in a 5.9 in the process. Forced induction, while fun, is a bit finicky for my tastes. My wife has a Durango R/T and I love it, but it's the baby hauler right now. In a few years I might do something with it, but for now I'm starting from a separate vehicle.

I'm buying a 2001 Ram 1500 4x4 this week as a donor. It has 151k on the clock, but I know the history well because I work with the owner's brother. Said it ran great until his brother rear ended a dump truck. Didn't even bust the radiator, but insurance totalled it because of the miles. I'm getting it for $1k and imagine I'll clear that in the unused parts. Which brings me to my point...What should I be keeping? I'll post my current list for starters.

  • Engine (duh)
  • Trans (although I plan to run my ax15 currently)
  • Underhood harness
  • PCM
  • Ignition key cylinder (maybe that solves potential SKIM issues?)
  • Brake M/C (good upgrade for TJs anyway)
  • Steering box (if it's the same as the Durango, otherwise I won't keep)
  • Fuel pump (JIC mine takes a dump)

Other notes:

  • I will probably make my own motor mounts, but might get lazy.
  • I plan to run the Summit block huggers, but in ceramic coated fashion for heat reduction.
  • Is the 231D HD worth keeping? I have an Advance Adapters SYE and my case is fine. Maybe the wide chain is worth it, but at 151k miles I don't know if I should risk that?
  • I have a TJ D44 with full truss, 33s TenFactory shafts, Detroit, and 4.88s. I have an on-off switch rather than a throttle, so normal people stuff doesn't always live as long as intended with me. It's held up to the turbo, but what would you think about it with the 5.9?
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
I don't have an inherent need to upsize the tires, but for the group I run with I'm undersized. Tire size runs from 42s to 36s, all locked F&R and running better cages than I have.

I've been debating with myself on axles and think for the short term I'm going to just run the V8 and 35s. That would give me a chance to work all of the bugs out with the engine swap and isolate any weirdness. The front axle is an open HP30 so unless I shred the spiders (like I have once before already) it should work for a while.

During that time I'm going to build my cage and get the seats and harnesses I want so my kids can ride. I don't think I'll have budget for axles and the cage.
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
BTW - is your last name Graves? I only ask because mine is and Gravesdigger was what I called my first jeep.
 
jeep-N-montero

jeep-N-montero

Formerly black_ZJ
Location
Bountiful
Your open hp30 will be fine if you use a bit of common sense and carry spare shafts, another suggestion is to weld on the almost alloy tabs from IRO. And to be honest, I like the power of the v8 in my 97 but prefer the smoothness of the 4.0 in my 96.
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
I'm interested in the steering. It will depend on timing and cash flow at this point. I need to recoup the salvaged truck investment, then sell my engine and turbo setup. I'm probably not going to be ready before late September.

I've wheeled a V8 before, so I'm not foreign to the difference. It was a built LT1 CJ on tons and 40s. I got rid of it to get something more street and kid friendly, but now wish I had just kept it. It was spring-over and too tall, but for the $$ I have in the TJ I could have built an LCG rig with 4-link & coil overs, built a new cage and put racing seats in for the kids. Oh, well.
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
That was fast! Sold $400 worth of stuff, including the transmission and then sold te entire truck to a dude for $700. I get the entire drivetrain, computer, etc. He really just wanted the seats and cab, but I told him for $700 he could have the whole thing other than what I was keeping. Now I don't have to mess with it.

Pulled the engine/trans/tcase tonight. Have a few little odds and ends to wrap up tomorrow and he can come get it.

Pulling the entire train is kind of a bear. That's not a light setup.

6348c519-4943-3958.jpg

6348c519-494e-e4f3.jpg


Picked up my bell housing for the AX15 and ordered the flywheel I need as well. Once I get my engine and turbo sold I can focus on the swap.
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
Have started looking at the wiring diagrams, but generally speaking, that sucks. Did those who have done this go through each of the 15 or so system diagrams for each and just figure out which colors to connect together? Looking at it in so may subsections makes it harder for me to conceptualizer what the whole thing looks like.

Also, how did you determine how much pigtail for each connector to leave? I'm guessing it would be best to do this with the engine in place rather than on the bench?
 
skippy

skippy

Pretend Fabricator
Location
Tooele
When I did my first LS harness I printed out the diagram and blew them up life size and taped all the papers together and just layed the harness over the top of the paper made it really easy to follow and not get overwhelmed just handle one thing ata a time
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
Thanks. I was doing some research and think maybe I will just use the pinout diagrams to start with. The system schematics refer to the pinout location for each circuit, so I think it would be easier to flag wires using that method. Then I can go through the detailed diagrams to make sure I have it correct.
 
TommyGp

TommyGp

Member
Finally waded through the wiring mess. In the end it would have been easier to just replace all of the B connector with te C2 connector from the Dodge. As it were I had to swap the IAC and oil pressure connectors. It would have been kind of difficult to get all the wires out of the mess because they must braid them in, but I basically had to in order to get the injectors and various sensors in the right spot anyway.
 
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