rear end noise '98 XJ

spiderman

Amish dude
Location
D.C. Area
Cool, thanks for the info again. Does anybody know of a link to or location of an online or electronic service manual for the '98 xj or the 8.25 axle?

Or does anybody know of the torque specs for this differential?
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
If you replace the bearings, which everyone reccomends you should...
pinion preload 12-15 inchlb
backlash .006-.010"
ring gear 55 lbft
carrier caps 60 lbft

The only hard one is finding an inch lb torque wrench! Mine got dropped/stepped on while I was in the middle of setting up some gears, and the only one I could find around town was a click style. For some these are ok... But the needle/bar style are the best. Then you can spin the pinion and watch the needle to be sure it's constant and not bouncing around. With the click style, you have no idea if it's more or less. Plus, the click style are real sensitive and hard to be accurate with.
 

spiderman

Amish dude
Location
D.C. Area
Yup, and I don't think I want to deal with it, so I am going to try and find an inexpensive axle down here just to swap in. I have a dial indicator, but I do not have the tool that goes in through the axle housing to adjust the setup, so I'll just swap the whole thing! Problem is, everything down here is 2-3 times more than it's worth. Stupid Florida!!!!:mad:
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Try calling tranny places, maybe one of them could replace just the bearings for you.... You might be into your axle $500, but you would spend that on a used one and still not know the condition of it.. This way you will have a rebuilt rear end!!

FWIW I sell the side adjuster tool for $50.... I also sell the bearings and etc... PM me if your interested...
 

spiderman

Amish dude
Location
D.C. Area
Okay, one last thing: The growling noise is loud from about 20 mph to close to 60 mph, but it kind of goes away after that. I'm not sure if that's just becuase it gets drowned out by other noises, though. It is present under load, but even light load, and practically disappears while coasting.

Does this sound more like pinion bearings or carrier bearings? I'm getting both answers. Also, if I take the axles out, and rotate the pinion by hand, if a pinion bearing is bad, should I be able to feel it?

THanks again for all the help. I'm excited to finally get my hands dirty again!
 

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
I have never used any special tools besides a torque wrench to set up axles. Get a shop manual that will tell you the torque specs and go from there. You can determine pinion depth and backlash, etc. by using some marking compound on the gears and checking the pattern. That is the only way I have done it, and so far no problems. Time consuming yes, but cheap.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Okay, one last thing: The growling noise is loud from about 20 mph to close to 60 mph, but it kind of goes away after that. I'm not sure if that's just becuase it gets drowned out by other noises, though. It is present under load, but even light load, and practically disappears while coasting.

Does this sound more like pinion bearings or carrier bearings? I'm getting both answers. Also, if I take the axles out, and rotate the pinion by hand, if a pinion bearing is bad, should I be able to feel it?

THanks again for all the help. I'm excited to finally get my hands dirty again!

Hard to say.. Could be either. Best way to know is to take it apart.
 

jonlowe

Registered User
Location
Farmington
If you take the carrier out of your diff housing you will need to reset the backlash on them. The 8.25 does not adjust the backlash via shims. There are threaded cups of sort on the outer endges of the carrier bearings that you have to adjust both your backlash on as well as your bearing pre-load. I would not recommend popping out the carrier if you have never been inside an axle before.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
If you take the carrier out of your diff housing you will need to reset the backlash on them. The 8.25 does not adjust the backlash via shims. There are threaded cups of sort on the outer endges of the carrier bearings that you have to adjust both your backlash on as well as your bearing pre-load. I would not recommend popping out the carrier if you have never been inside an axle before.

True... That's what that special side adjuster tool is for...

As for not cracking it open if you've never done it...How you gonna learn otherwise? Some people have no clue what a wrench is, and for them I would say stay out. But for someone that can do their own brake jobs, etc. go for it.

When you put it back together, remember that carrier bearing preload is your friend - the more the better. You gotta set the preload on the pinion to specs, though, or you will burn up the bearings.

If you get into a tight spot, holler! And I, or others, will see if we can help!
 

spiderman

Amish dude
Location
D.C. Area
I would not recommend popping out the carrier if you have never been inside an axle before.

I have been inside axles before, just not this one! ;) I am familiar with the shim idea, but the threaded adjuster is new to me. If it doesn't create other problems, I think it's brilliant! I found some rebuild info on this axle and I am ready to go. This morning I am ordering the preload adjuster tool.
 

jonlowe

Registered User
Location
Farmington
You will be fine, I just did not want to see you get into a pickle with no way out. It is not a complicated design at all. Good luck.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Almost forgot... Since you have never dealt with the 8.25's, make sure you remove the adjuster before you remove the bearing cap. Then set the bearing cap and torqued before putting the adjust back in. And reember, too much preload is not a bad thing, on the carrier.

Not that you will be going this far, but sometimes Chrysler and GM used left hand threaded ring gear bolts, so be careful you don't put too much torque on it trying to get it out and break a bolt! Sometimes they are simply marked with a L on the head...
 

spiderman

Amish dude
Location
D.C. Area
Thanks for the advice. I won't be changing the r&p, so I shouldn't have to worry about the bolts. I've opened up the diff and all the gears are good. No abnormal wear, grit, etc.
 
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