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Sammy Lift info needed

F

FieroJones

It's not a Sports Car?
Location
Farmington, UT
Ok, i FINALLY Am moving into my new house, IE: GARAGE!! So I am also going to get around to lifting the sammy. Now, I'm a cheap SOB, so keep this in mind.

Sammy is getting a 3" Body lift, and i am using 3" square pipe, and then going to fabricate some "llift pants" so you cant see air between framerails and body tub. Allready got that stuff ready to go. Question here, anyone got a porta bandsaw, or a metal saw, or something to cut this up into 1.5" slices? I got a length 3.5' long, so if you do, your more then welcome to get whatever you want or need. Ogden/Farmington area.

Also I'm doing a SPOA. I have got the new perches from RRO, but thats all I have so far. Now for the q's. I had a list of the brake lines that i need to get, but lost it. Anyone have these? Also, is it possible to NOT do that, and possibly route the lines differently? Remember, I'm cheap, but dont want to skimp on safety. Now, I dont want to get driveline spacers (yet). Is it possible to drop the transfer case an inch or so to compensate for vibrations? Also, when re-attaching the shocks, is it possible, or feasable to weld a nut on instead, and then have a bolt go through the eye of the shock and into the nut? Then Shock changes would be simple for future upgrades, or possibly to replace a damaged one. Any Ideas?

Also, one last thing, anyone upgrading there tires on the sammy or jeep, and have the old REALLY small tires? My garagedoor is not super tall, and I want to have small tires on it (under 235's) so i can get it out the door when done. Tread dont matter at all, As they would only be used to go from garage to driveway.

Thanks for any help!!

-Karl
 
V

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Got some questions for ya:

(1) What size tire are you wanting to accomodate?
(2) Would you be opposed to scrapping the 3" body lift plan in favor of a 2" instead (or no body lift at all)?
(3) Would you be willing to explore options of "cuttiing" parts of the body/bumpers/bumper supports to fit a larger tire with less lift?

Now for the suggestions:

(1) Don't try to drop the Tcase. It's not worth the time or effort and it won't help much anyway.
(2) After doing the S(P?)OA, you now will have flex. Ditch the stock shocks/mounts and do it right. You'll be limiting your travel in a huge way if you don't.
(3) Get the DL spacers. It will work without them, but only if used on-road.
(4) Buy brake lines, there is no other option.
(5) To get your rig out of the garage, air your tires down to the lowest psi (3-ish?) without blowing a bead. Problem solved.
(6) I could suggest stuff 'til the cows come home, but I'll stop here.

Any questions? just ask...
 
spencurai

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
yeah listen to what von said!!

1)ditch the body lift idea. the RRO perches will be enough lift. if you need more, go shackle not body.

2)you will not be happy without driveline spacers. they are very helpful and well worth the money.

3)whatever happened to our deal??? i will help you but you have to do it right the first time. you will regret taking shortcuts such as body lifts and such. one thing you might not have noticed is the studs or the body mounts are attached to the body. they are not bolts they are studs and you will run into a problem with extending them on a 3" body lift.

4) brake lines are fronts from a solid axle toyota pickup for your rear axle. for the front axle get 2 left or 2 right side front brake lines off a sidekick/tracker. or buy them from a vendor. there is no reasonable way to get around brake lines that is safe.

to sum it up, do it right the first time and dont mess with the body lift.:D :D
 
F

FieroJones

It's not a Sports Car?
Location
Farmington, UT
(1) What size tire are you wanting to accomodate?

31 x 14.50's or a set of 33 x 14.50's. Not sure yet, Might even go up to 35's later, but if i do (35's) its not going to see much offroad.. Too much tire. Either way, it HAS to go up!

(2) Would you be opposed to scrapping the 3" body lift plan in favor of a 2" instead (or no body lift at all)?

I actually NEED the body lift for some engine modifications.

(3) Would you be willing to explore options of "cuttiing" parts of the body/bumpers/bumper supports to fit a larger tire with less lift?

I allready have 31's w/out ANY lift, so I've allready begun the cutting :D

Now for the suggestions:

(1) Don't try to drop the Tcase. It's not worth the time or effort and it won't help much anyway.

But will it help? I will be getting longer axles, but am worried about eating up U-Joints due to angles. Trying to level it out a lil more.

(2) After doing the S(P?)OA, you now will have flex. Ditch the stock shocks/mounts and do it right. You'll be limiting your travel in a huge way if you don't.

Ok

(3) Get the DL spacers. It will work without them, but only if used on-road.

It will be used as my daily driver, yet still needs to be an offroader.

(4) Buy brake lines, there is no other option.

OK

(5) To get your rig out of the garage, air your tires down to the lowest psi (3-ish?) without blowing a bead. Problem solved.

I only have 6" clearance now....

(6) I could suggest stuff 'til the cows come home, but I'll stop here.

Any questions? just ask...

Thanks for the parts list Spencer, Looks like I'm goin junkyard divin (again). As to the Body lift, I will be reusing the studs, with new bolts welded into the body lift Pucks (3" square Tubing), so thats not a problem there.

I just got a new house (we're moving on Wed) so I HAVE To fabricate everything that i want to do. Money gunna be tight for "Frivolous" things (so says the wife) so whatever I do, has to be cheap.

Thanks Again for all the input!!

-Karl
 
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