Samurai Blues

mhafen

Member
Location
Salt Lake City
I have three problems.
1) I just replaced the brake lines and brake cylinders and I keep leaking brake fluid. Im curious to know how tight I should make the fittings? I have them pretty tight but I could go more. Should I go until its difficult with hand tools?

2) After replacing the breaks the E brake light is perpetually on. Is there an easy fix for this?

3) DEATH WOBBLE!!! at 28-33 mph I get the scariest death wobble ever. I ordered the OTT steering upgrade and was told this would fix it. Is that true? If not what can I do to eliminate it?
 

lewis

Fight Till You Die
Location
Hairyman
1) Try backing off the fitting and re tightening it. It might take a few times of doing this to get it seated properly.
 

O'neal

?????????
Location
evanston wy
What mod's have been done?? There are quite a few thing's that can cause death wobble-Loose TRE's,unbalanced tire's,caster etc....
 

Mope

Registered User
Location
Pocatello, ID
I have 6" spoa 1.5" ome leafs 3" bone shackles on stock axles running 33's. Im going to be losing the 3" shackles and moving down to 31's shortly.

Those longer shackles could throw off your caster. I'll bet going back to stockish length shackles will eliminate most if not all your bumpsteer. A corrected steering setup def helps as well.
 

mhafen

Member
Location
Salt Lake City
I ordered an OTT kit and Im hoping that will help with bump steer but it the wobble is the worst. Should I do the OTT and see if that eliminates it? Or is that not going to help? If not should I get a panhard kit?
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
check your tie rods and make sure your wheels are balenced, if all that checks out, caster and alignment needs to be checked out, do you have any kind of steering stabilizer?
 

zukking01

Registered User
The brake light in the dash is not only controlled by the park brake but low brake fluid. Top off the reservoir and the light should turn off.

I tighten brake lines down with a really nice 10mm wrench so it holds the fitting very well. Then I tighten the fitting down to the point the wrench starts to want to slip or strip the nut. It is a lot of torque on a little fitting but I have never had a leak doing this and never had a problem breaking one either.

The death wobble probably has a lot to do with worn out steering components like your TRE and knuckle bearings.
 

mhafen

Member
Location
Salt Lake City
Would getting the OTT steering help if I got it dialed in right? And if not would that be a for sure sign that its the bearings? Also would the panhard kit help at all? Or is that a waste?
 

zukking01

Registered User
Where are you located.

I think a pan hard kit on a stockish samurai is a waste when you compare the cost vs the benefit.

If you have OTT already installed chances are the TRE's on it are not bad yet so it would most likely mean you need to rebuild the knuckles with new bearings.

An aftermarket steering stabilizer will only help so much. Check it to see if it is working or not. If the rod moves easily back and forth it is toast. It should be fairly difficult to move the dampener rod in and out.
 

zukking01

Registered User
Who did you get the OTT from? IF it is rocky road outfitters cancel the order as it will take 3 weeks longer than they said and it will have missing hardware.


WHERE are YOU located?
 

zukking01

Registered User
Good choice. Low range is a good vendor to buy from. The owner Shawn is local and will get it done right.

The knuckles are fairly easy to do with a rebuild kit. First time will take the better part of a day with the right hand tools. Having someone with knowledge and experience to help will drastically cut the time down to a few hours.
 

mhafen

Member
Location
Salt Lake City
How far do I need to disassemble the axel? Ive changed the third member on the rear but I havent touched the front Im guessing its a whole nother' beast. Should I do it just to do it or is it one of those "if it aint broke dont fix it" kind of things? Also I was looking into thorley headers for a little more oomph from the engine. I dont want to get a carb yet, I have a 2.5" magnaflow system on it worth while or no?
 

zukking01

Registered User
I LOVED my thornley hedder. It was worth every penny in my opinion. Remember that it bolts to the block but you need to weld it to the current exhaust.

To rebuild the knuckle on the front axle you need to remove the hubs and internals, remove the axle shafts, remove backing plates on inside of knuckles, and then the upper and lower king pins on the knuckles. Not the hardest thing in the world but it will take time and basic hand tools. If I were in your situation with death wobble and new steering I would rebuild the knuckle when I did the steering.
 

mhafen

Member
Location
Salt Lake City
Im probly going to run down to Low range and pick up the rebuild kit tomorrow. Heres a question how do you get the timing set? I replaced the oil pump gasket and the oil pan gasket and I cant get it right. I got it to fire but it was clunky so I tried again now I cant get anything.
 

zukking01

Registered User
Set timing? You adjust the distributor. The gaskets shouldnt have screwed with your timing. Do you own or have access to a timing light?
 
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