Sheet AL scraps?

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
I am looking for three small (2"x2" or so) scraps of aluminum somewhere around .125 thick. They all need to be the same thickness while the other dimensions are not important. One of each of the following grades:

2024 T3
3003 H14
5052 H32

Anyone know where I might pick some up for cheep/free? Thanks.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
Anybody? Or anyone have experience with the formability as well as longevity/strength of these alloys as they compare to the others? I have found all the #'s and data I can find online but would like some real world experience on the matter. Thanks.
 

sixb

Will work for beer!
Location
West Jordan, UT
Anybody? Or anyone have experience with the formability as well as longevity/strength of these alloys as they compare to the others? I have found all the #'s and data I can find online but would like some real world experience on the matter. Thanks.

We use 5052 for sheetmetal parts that need to formed and 6061 for the flat work. Have no idea on longevity or strength.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
6061-T is commonly used in high-end mountain bikes. I've beaten the crap out of a few of them and they held up pretty well under what I can only assume are a metric boatload of stress cycling? Pre-suspension, too. :D

I would suppose the application would make a big difference.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
For sheet we used to use 5052 I believe (it's been a while) because it was more corrosion resistant and could be formed without tearing/cracking. For tubing we would use 6063 (I think) because 6061 would crack if you tried to bend it in a tubing bender.

Like I said, it's been quite a while so my memory may be wrong though.

EDIT: These examples were from my days of doing brine shrimping on the GSL, the material would hold up as well as it was put together.
 

MRJ

Just a user
Location
Draper, UT
I'll go look to see if we have any laying around.

As others have said if your going to bend/form it you will be better to use 5000 series. 6000 will likely tear.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
I know the 6000 series is not generally used for this application-unless it is in the -O condition and heat treating is planned after the forming. I have likely narrowed it down to the 5052 or the 3003. I have to make several 90* bends in the part and would like it to not tear when I bend it or after several hundred miles mounted to a vibrating snowmobile. From what I have found 3003 has a smaller recommended min. bend radius than the 5052. I am leaning that way but am just a bit concerned about the ultimate strength. There will (at times) be 200-500 lbs placed on the part with approximately 2 feet of leverage so I wonder if I won't be better off going with the higher ultimate strength of the 5250 and dealing with the bending issues (larger radius). That's where I'm at right now.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
I know the 6000 series is not generally used for this application-unless it is in the -O condition and heat treating is planned after the forming. I have likely narrowed it down to the 5052 or the 3003. I have to make several 90* bends in the part and would like it to not tear when I bend it or after several hundred miles mounted to a vibrating snowmobile. From what I have found 3003 has a smaller recommended min. bend radius than the 5052. I am leaning that way but am just a bit concerned about the ultimate strength. There will (at times) be 200-500 lbs placed on the part with approximately 2 feet of leverage so I wonder if I won't be better off going with the higher ultimate strength of the 5250 and dealing with the bending issues (larger radius). That's where I'm at right now.
I think the radius of the bend is pretty subjective considering we used to have the 5052 bent pretty dang tight for some of our parts we'd build. I don't know that I would want or need it any tighter than what we would get. While the 3003 may be able to be bent with a tighter radius, I think you'll find the min radius of the 5052 is plenty tight. Not to mention 5052 is going to be tons easier to find if this is going to be a mass produced item.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
I'm probably going to end up with 0 bend radius or close to it over 90*. This will be a one off custom part and either material is available. I would just go with the 5052 but if it cracks I'm out $50. But if I go 3003 and it doesn't crack but fails to hold up in the long run then I'm out $50 and my rep goes in the toilet. I'd like to buy the material once and have it work for a long time. Picky I know. :p;)
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
haha Carl. Funny. ;) It is for my father in law so if it sucks then we might not get to visit as often........and then my wife will be angry............and I know you are married so I don't need to explain further. :)
 
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