Spartan locker install, Dana 60


Et incurventur ante non
Premium Member
Alright. So this is a super easy install. I did it with a new, empty carrier, but I don't think it would be much harder in the axle, in or out of a vehicle. This took like 20min, with time to find a couple tools. You will need: some pliers, a punch for the roll pin in the carrier, and a hammer to... hit the punch. :D


Here is the new, 4.56-up carrier, and the Spartan in a box.


Here's what's inside the Spartan box: locker parts! woot.


Here's what's inside the bag: a new cross-pin, some grooved pins, springs, and some wires. More on those later.


The springs go inside the pins. Elapsed time for install? About 1 minute.


Et incurventur ante non
Premium Member
View attachment 71177

The pins go in the holes in the center drive plates (I don't what you call these, so I'm calling them "center drive plates".) You will notice holes.

View attachment 71178

You need to compress the pins, and insert those wires I mentioned earlier. These will hold the pins in while you do the rest of the installation. Very handy!
Obviously, I just flipped them over and did it that way.

View attachment 71179

This is what it should look like when you're done-- be sure the wires are fully inserted: if not, the spring will send that pin flying-- they're fairly stout.

View attachment 71180

This is what you have when you're done with this step. The pins engage in the corresponding grooves in the opposite drive plate.
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Premium Member

So, put the side gears in the carrier.


Here's another shot.

] DSCI1410.jpg

This is what it looks like when you have them both in there.


Place this spacer in the center drive plate, "open side'" facing the teeth. The other side, as you can see, has a lip on it. Not hard to get right.


Go ahead. Put it right on in there.


The center drive plate should look like this with the spacer installed.


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Premium Member

Now, put the center drive plates into the carrier. You have to maneuver these in careful so you don't disturb the wires holding the pins in but it's not hard.


Getting the 2nd one in is a little more difficult, but still not very hard.


Once they're in, you will remove these wires...


...using pliers, or something similar.


Once the wires are out, rotate the locker until the pins click into place in their respective grooves. This is an unmistakable click.


All that's left now is to install the cross-pin and roll pin that retains it. Be sure to install it with the pin-hole in the.. cross pin towards the roll-pin-hole in the carrier. I didn't check but this may be a tapered pin so it only goes in one way. At any rate, it's obvious what needs to happen. Insert the pin until the holes line up...


...and then tap the roll pin in (sticking up in the background) with a hammer. Use a punch to seat it all the way. Also, remember, the roll pin is a spring, so give it a good, setting whack to get it started.


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Premium Member

The roll pin should be flush, like this.


And that's all it takes! If you have a bare carrier like I did, proceed with the rest of the install.
If your axle is still in the truck, button it up and go enjoy your new traction.


By endurance we conquer
Supporting Vendor
Glad this was the first article that popped up when I Googled this. Thanks Tacoma. Doing this tomorrow.
You will pleased at how much easier Spartans are to install compared to other lunchbox lockers. Those little wires make for a lot less flying springs(and curse words:))


RME Resident Ninja
Premium Member
West Jordan
Ram-on-Rocks! said:
How much difficulty will it be to install the locker in while the carrier is still in the housing? I've read this is possible.
The only thing you need to make sure of is that the cross shaft can be removed without taking the ring gear off of the carrier. Assuming the shaft can be removed easily, it isn't too bad in the housing.

If there is interference between the shaft and the ring gear, you have two options: If it is close (maybe 1/8" or less of gear/shaft interference) I have seen people grind the ring gear teeth that are stopping the shaft from sliding out. If there is too much interference or you don't want to grind on your gears, you'll have to pull the carrier out and remove the ring gear. My personal preference is to remove the carrier - I don't like cleaning grinding dust out of my bearings and housing.


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Premium Member
I would definitely remove the carrier and ring gear-- it's easy, though it does take time to remove the shafts first on a front end. Far easier to do that than it is to try and keep grinding bits out of the gear oil, and clean up all the crap out of the housing with the diff still in it.

Glad my little write-ups have been useful. :D The wires in the Spartan save soooo much trouble compared to Lock-Rites.