Steve's '94 Toyota x-cab mild build

[sixstringsteve]

What about lowering your spring perches on the axle? You could likely get them ~1/2" lower on the housing, that buys you the same 1/2" between your tie rod and pinion. I've done some that literally have the top of the spring pad resting on the top of the axle housing. While it requires you to trim your spring center pin to the thickness of your spring perch, its never going to move and you can re-set your caster to the desired amount thus buying you the ~3/16" or so that your shim is adding to your spring height. All say you could easily buy yourself a half inch or more of clearance.
"

that is an EXCELLENT solution Kurt! The rock assault perches do sit a bit higher than the stock perches. I'm at 5* caster now, and that's good enough for me, but if I decide I MUST get to 3* caster, I'll consider lowering my spring perches.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The knuckle ball they use should be concentric, so a cut turn shouldn't be an issue so long as you cut outside of the offset housing? But again that won't solve your interference, just correct your caster. So your sitting at ~5* of caster? How is the pinion angle? If it drives nice and the pinion works, I'd not worry about it.

 

[airmanwilliams]

Some great feedback here everyone, thanks.

I went with 4* shims, removed a 4" leaf, and it clears just fine. In fact, I could put the tiny little leaf back in the bottom if I wanted to. I took it on the freeway yesterday, and its driving great. No more weird steering wheel shimmy. Thanks again to everyone who helped me diagnose this problem.

I knew you would get it worked out steve. congrats. glad you figured it out fairly quickly and was able to get the truck all ready for the road.

 

[sixstringsteve]

So your sitting at ~5* of caster?

I haven't measured it, but I had 9* before the shim, and I added a 4* shim, so I assume it's 5* of caster.

How is the pinion angle? If it drives nice and the pinion works, I'd not worry about it.

Since I'm running a HP, pinion angle is great. Heck, it was even good when my caster was at 10*. I'm going to leave it as is, it seems to be working quite nicely.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I'm a conflicted man.

1/3 of me wants to keep this rig as is and not do a thing.
another 1/3 of me wants to sell it and get something else.
the other 1/3 of me wants to keep it and bob the bed front and rear, add an exo, and run 37-38" tires and push the rear axle forward.

What I'd REALLY love to do is sell everything on my truck minus the axles, and throw them onto my next project (an AMC mighty mite).

 

[N-Smooth]

option 1 makes sense but with an addendum: WHEEL IT AND HAVE FUN WITH IT!!!

 

[Greg]

You're like me Steve, thinking the 'next' vehicle is always going to be better than what you currently have. Your imagination makes you believe that the next project will be so much better and you don't see that what you currently have is just fine. There's something to be said for those that can be content with what they have and just get out and use it without focusing on the downfalls and thinking about selling their current rig.

I'm all sentimental because I was looking thru some of my pics from the last year and I'm really missing my FZJ. It wasn't perfect, but it excelled at it's purpose and was very capable.

 

[sixstringsteve]

After looking back at my 2011 trips, it made me realize how great this rig is. It does everything very well. I have inherited an AMC mighty mite from my wife's family, but I can't bring it home 'till I make room for it here. I think it'd be cool to build it super light, with a cage, yota axles, and 35's. Then I could tow it with my 100 series.

The sad part is, I know you're right Greg. I just have this hunger for something new. It's a sickness no doubt. I don't think my next rig will be "better" per say. I like experiencing new things, and I've learned a ton from each rig that I've owned. I know my rig could tackle big trails like pritchett, but without a cage, I don't want to try it. And it's too clean to start beating up on the challenging trails... so I stick to the easy ones.

 

[Coco]

I thought the next one was expo rig?

Just kidding Steve. In all seriousness, I have been really missing several of my previous rigs. I keep thinking why did I sell the rigs I had, or why I have to keep working around what I had.

Hopefully I keep the runner I got. I really got some awesome (ambitious) plans for it, and want it to ultimately be an all in one rig. Drive down the freeway nice, but able to wheels the hardest trails around.

I'll admit tho Steve, a mighty mite would be sick, or even option 3 on the current truck.

 

[sixstringsteve]

If this thing were more relaxing on the freeway it'd be a no-brainer. I do miss my old tacoma. It would do 85 and feel super solid, and it crawled really well too.

 

[Stephen]

Keep the truck. It's awesome and seems to suit most of your needs.
As for the Mighty Mite, keep it stock or restore it. Wheel it stock, take it on the Relic Run and enjoy the hell out of such a unique vehicle.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I can't get the mighty mite 'till I shed a vehicle. And it's not very stock, and the cost of keeping it stock would be insane (they only made 4000 of them, and parts are very expensive). Who knows what'll happen. Thanks for the encouragement though.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I've got a few things to wrap up before my swell trip in a couple weeks:

- wire front and rear lockers to switch
- flush power steering
- add diff breather tubes

I'd like to add a rear bumper, but it's not necessary for this trip.

 

[Max Power]

Let me know if you need a hand with the wiring.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I just may. I'm good at soldering and crimping, but I'm bad at reading wiring diagrams.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I could use a little help interpreting these wiring diagrams. I'm using the ARB-style 8-pin DPDT switch from Low Range: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/inde...r/differentials/toyota-e-locker-switches.html


Here's the wiring diagram for the toyota locker:

And here's the wiring diagram that Low Range provided for the switch:

 

[sixstringsteve]

Correct me if I'm wrong here.

- it looks like I should connect 12v + to pins 3, 4, and 8.
- And it looks like I should ground the white/black wires (so they go directly to ground, and they don't touch the switch)


Does that sound right?



I'm curious why pin 6 says "outgoing" and it also signifies to ground it.

 

[chans]

6 pin look like when the locker is engaged it completes the circuit and thus makes the dash light turn on. It would be grounded since the positive is off the bulb in the dash.

 

[sixstringsteve]

i meant pin #6 on the arb switch (second diagram)