Suzuki Samurai

2BACJ

SS
Location
Kaysville, UT
I really don't know much about the Suzuki Samurai, but I've seen many a nearly stock Samurai perform just as well in various situations as a larger, more heavily modified vehicle. I'm also impressed with the many avalaible options there are out there for the Samurai, especially the Klune-V and lower tcase gears sets, that reduce your high range gear ratio as well. To me, for my wheeling purposes, a capable Samurai would have 4" of lift with decent flex, a lower gear kit for the tcase, and 32" tires. Then of course you've got a rear locker, and maybe some birfield cups. So, what would be the cost for these couple of items: 4" suspension lift and a transfer case reduction kit? Basically, if someone could just ramble on about Sammy's from top to bottom, I'd appreciate it. I'm interested in the little buggers.
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
if i did it again, i would not have homebrewed my spring over. i would go with the www.rockyroadoutfitters.com spring over conversion perches and their brake lines and spacers. to make a "Z-LINK" is easy enough, to replace your drag-link. as far as cost goes you will spend a couple hundred bucks on a kit to doa spring over. DO NOT mess with the lift spring kit from www.puresuzuki.com A.K.A calmini. these kits compromise flex and ride for a "bolt on" experience. IMO if you cant weld....learn how to weld or get out of the sport. I am literally surrounded by people who purchased the lift from rocky-road and it is the only way to go.

This lift will allow you to run up to 31" tires with very little rubbing at full flex. you can run 33's but you need to do some basic trimming in order to make them behave well, ask JP008 (JIM), about his experiences with 33" MTR's on his zuk, he loves them.

As far as gearing goes, i kick myself for not getting the 6:1 gearset but i bought my 4.16:1 gears right before the 6:1 set hit the market. they offer something like a 138% reduction in low and somewhere in the range of 15-18% reduction in high negating the need for diff gears. a fellow zuker in california put his 6:1 gears up against his stock daily driver. his trail rig has 33" SSR's to give you an idea of what he is dealing with. anyway he put his trail rig in LOW and 5TH gear and his stocker in LOW and 1ST gear and the stock rig walked away at an astonishing pace compared to his trail rig!! at a cost of 850-900$ for the DIY kit, they are a bargain!! the first and only gears you will ever need and i have heard no tales of them breaking yet. they have been run in europe and australia for years.

as far as lockers, you have two options, lockright (ez-lockers), or ARB's. most of us around here just run lockrights in the rear. after running rockpile up barret canyon in north ogden, we are all wishing for front lockers now. lockers run no more than 200$ ARB's are expensive as usual.

you have the right idea on getting birfield cups for the front end. if you want to run a front locker, birfields on samurais are weak to put it mildly. some have gone to call them "CUTE" like in look how small and cute that newborn baby's hands are "CUTE". Jim phillips is going to try out some of the "longfields" for samurais. they are welded and cryo-treated for strength, but i have heard no reviews of them myself. cups are availible from rocky road as well as most samurai vendors. usually in the 90$ a pair range if i recall correctly. minor machining and press work is involved in their installation.

For rockcrawling with major gearing, it is not recomended to go over the 33" tire threshold. samurai running-gear is tough but it cannot handle anything more than 33's and be expected to be reliable. broken axle shafts are the norm for larger tire users. i have never heard of anyone breaking axles with 31" tires but i am sure it happens occasionally. jim has not broken yet but he is not that hard on his rig :D .

there are a number of valuable resources for learning to build up a samurai. try subscribing to the www.topica.com suzuki4x4 mailing list. you can expect 200 messages a day on various topics and they are very friendly to new comers. if you want to get more extreme go to the www.pirate4x4.com BBS and get on their system. these guys are a little more rough around the edges but there is a wealth of information in their brains to pick if your question is technical enought for them. they need to have their brains challenged or they dont respond to requests well. www.izook.com is a good board to find general info on zuks. i have found that zukers are more than happy to help other zukers as we are the underdogs in the 4x4 world and are very pleased that a zuk took first place in the last farmington RCAA (ARCA).

if you are looking at buying a zuk dont pay any more than 1500$ for a nice specimin from the late 80's. after 1990 they started in with fuel injection but expect to pay a little more for this luxury. stock zuk carbs are great at angles so dont worry if you end up with a carbed model. there are really no bad years for zuks. they are all good wheelers and you would be surprised what stock zuks can do. buck for buck, they are the most cost effective wheeling machines out there. no other vehicle comes close to becoming trail worthy for the money and time invested. i would challenge anyone to point out a cheaper rig!!!!


fellow zukers, did i leave anything out or do i need correction? this little ditty comes from all my studies combined with personal experience. I find it to be unbiased and for the most part accurate. chime in and tell me what you think.
:D :D :confused: :confused: :D
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
I have been working on my Bro. in laws sammy the last couple of days. I'm installing the Rocky Road spring over kit. It almost feels like cheating. It is very easy to install and the kit is well made. We did buy the z-link. The axles are so light you can throw them around prety easy.
I think that they are by far the cheapest way to put together a crawler. And if you ever get really stuck you and a couple of buddies can pick it up and move it.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
So if I had $3000 to spend on a vehicle...could I buy a zuk and build it up for under the $3000 mark...including everything from lower t-case gears to tires to lift to lockers and including the cost of the zuk??? I would do all the installs myself and welding is no problem...but could I do it??? I will add up what I think it will cost and you guys can set me straight...thanks
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Alright buys I did a little shopping and this is what I found from RRO...

Option #1

Deluxe 6" SPOA kit - $465
Shocks - $135
T-Case with 6:1 gear set installed already - $1190
Lockers (Front and Rear lockrights and possible new front carrier) - $495
Power kit - $379
Tires - $500
_____________
Total - $3164


Option #2

Same SPOA kit
Same Shocks
6:1 T-Case gears to be installed by me - $890
Rear locker only - $215
Tires - $500
______________
Total - $2205


Option #3

Same SPOA kit
Same Shocks
T-Case with 4.16 gear set already installed - $765
Same locker as #2
Same tires
______________
Total - $2080


Option #4

Same SPOA kit
Same Shocks
4.16 gear seat to be installed by me - $490
Same locker as #2
same tires
_______________
Total - $1805


Now a few questions...is the power kit really that beneficial??? Is the t-case gear sets easy to install by yourself??? and Do any of you guys know of any good deals on a zuk???

I will be running 32" MTRS which I already can get brand new for $500(from my bro) and I will be using this as a DD too so it needs to be street worthy...I want your guys' opinions please...thanks:D:D:D
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
option #2 is the best. forget the power kit. it is not worth the money. in the suzuki world, you wait for your 1.3 8V to pop so you can throw in a 1.6 9 or 16 valve with fuel injection. or if you are brave a VW turbo diesel or if you are slightly demented an chevy 4.3 V-6!! dont worry about your motor for now. t-case gears are easy to do as long as you have a full set of gear pullers. I did my buddy's in about 2 hours. you dont really need a front locker to start off but they are sure nice to have!! i am saving my pennies right now!! :D :D
 

2BACJ

SS
Location
Kaysville, UT
I think I know what I'd do to a Zuk if I had one. I do option #2 up there, but I still am a little tossed on the tcase gears. The 6.1 looks slick as can be, and it reduces your high range 24%, whick would be ideal for 33" tires. If you were to go the 4.16 gears, would they push 32" tires ok, or would you still be out of your power band? Spenc, how many miles does your Zuk have on it? I've read that the 1.3 liter is not a long lasting engine. I'd like the engine to last as long as possible, I'd prefer not to do a 1.6 engine swap for a while. I'd rather use the money else where. The missing link shackles look enticing too. Nearly 40" of articulation with a SPOA and M-links....pretty dang nice!
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Originally posted by spencurai
in the suzuki world, you wait for your 1.3 8V to pop so you can throw in a 1.6 9 or 16 valve with fuel injection. or if you are brave a VW turbo diesel or if you are slightly demented an chevy 4.3 V-6!!

Has anyone ever put a 22RE in a Zuk? You would probably have to use the entire Toy Drivetrain, and thats pretty frickin' long. How about a extended wheelbase, Toyota Powered, Toy AXLE'D, Zuk?

Or should one just stick with the Toy?? :D
 

2BACJ

SS
Location
Kaysville, UT
On offroad.com, in the suzuki section, there is a project called project Samyota. Looks pretty cool. It is basically a suzuki frame and body with the yota drivetrain. It's got the 22RE, 5speed tranny, and a marlin dual tcase. It actually fit in all right, other than the floor had to be cut out in order to fit the tub ontop of the larger toyota transmission. Yota's are such a great machine. I might be gettin another 85 4runner from a guy that lives out by me, for next to nothing. If that doesn't work out, I'll get a Sammy, due to how cheap they are to build up. I love my 2dr '90 runner I've got right now too. That think is so sweet. I unfortunately did a number on it about a month ago above the B.
 

jp008

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber City
Originally posted by spencurai
option #2 is the best. forget the power kit. it is not worth the money. in the suzuki world, you wait for your 1.3 8V to pop so you can throw in a 1.6 9 or 16 valve with fuel injection.

Forget the power kit??????????? I had the head shaved 20 thou, 1.6 exhaust valve seats installed and a midrange cam. I did all the work on the head myself as far as installing the valves, seals and cam and I'm only in it $200.00 I'm pushing roughly 85hp almost the same as an 8v 1.6 kick. If the engine is in good shape I would say modify it. I've seen 125hp in a 1.3 with very little effort. I did not get my engine kit from RRO. The only one I go to as far as engine mods are concerned is www.asianautopartsofaz.com Dave is a GREAT guy and is very fair and honest. If you have the money then definately do the 16v 1.6. I wouldn't waste my time with the 8v. It's got TBI injection and has not yet impressed me. The 16v has got MPI and has 124hp from the factory. Hmmmmmmmm. I am running 3.73 gears in the diffs and 33-12.5 GY MT/R's and I can still do 65mph down I-15. Most STOCK sami's are lucky if they hit the 60mph mark. Oh did I mention that's in 4th gear? 5th is useless but my 5.12's are coming soon. Oh BTW DO NOT get the Centerforce D/F clutch it's NOT worth it.

And for your info I beat on my zuki like it's a redheaded stepchild:p It sees 7000rpm EVERYDAY and loves every minute of it.


OK I'm done now I'm going to bed.
 
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jp008

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber City
OK so I haven't gone to bed yet I'm not done rambling. My opinions are based on my experiences and from what I have seen with my 2 eyes. My sami may not be the worlds best but I am very confident in it's abilities. I have learned alot by asking the people who have built them alot of questions, and by listening to their mistakes. I know that I have seen other samurais that I would not even put Osama in the drivers seat, for fear that he would be put to an untimely death. Anyway just build it right and build it safe. If you have any Q's please ask.
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
i take back everything about you being gentle jim.....


JIM=CRAZY!!!


i totally forgot about the bent axle housing fiasco!!:rolleyes: :D
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
OK, so I stumbled upon this thread a bit late, but oh well.....

I have my own opinion of parts/mods that would turn a Zuk into a excellent trail and/or competition rig, but I'll just be giving words of wisdom for now. These are things to keep in mind if you plan on buying or building a Samurai:

(1) Get to know your local Suzuki parts-counter guy. He's your link to the outside world.

(2) Get parts catalog #99924-88400-688 and service manual #99500-83310. (See #1)

(4) It's not a Jeep, don't expect your parts to be in stock or readily available. You'll spend more time trying to get certain parts than you will be out wheeling. Don't plan a trip based on getting your parts in time. You'll probably be dissapointed.

(5) Don't expect respect from other 4x4 owners. You're at the bottom of the 4x4 food chain in their minds. (I said, "in their minds") I think Samurais rule and own one myself.

(6) For the love of God, learn how to spell "Samurai" right. :)

I know this is a bit harsh and there are exceptions to each rule, but just be prepared. I was knee-deep in the Samurai-industry for a couple years, so if you have any questions just ask. BTW, the Klune has not been available for a while now (and wasn't really practical with the $2,800 price tag anyway).
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by spencurai
a fellow zuker in california put his 6:1 gears up against his stock daily driver. his trail rig has 33" SSR's to give you an idea of what he is dealing with. anyway he put his trail rig in LOW and 5TH gear and his stocker in LOW and 1ST gear and the stock rig walked away at an astonishing pace compared to his trail rig!!

Assuming that both rigs have stock 3.73 diff gears:

Stock rig in low range/1st gear: 30.89:1 crawl ratio.

Trail rig in low range (w/6:1 tcase)/5th gear: 17.79:1 crawl. :eek:

Even if the "trail rig" had 5.38's, it still would not crawl at a slower pace (in 5th gear) than the stock rig with 3.73's (in 1st).

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
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SmokinCamel

Went from 80" to 125" :)
Location
Salt Lake City
What up all??
Im really really really late.

My views

Zuk= one awsome wheelin vehicle

I have enjoyed every min of my 4 wheelin adventures.

what have I ran in my zuk??

RRO bolt on SPOA
Rancho 1.5" lifted springs
5:38 axle gears with lock right in rear
4:16 RRO T-case gears with 2wd low
ARB bull bar with Warn 8000 winch
centerforce clutch
hardcore 4x4 skid plate
and other things

best mod GEARS!!
worst Lockright locker- does not perform well under trashing. I have even broke the mini pins.
 
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