Tie Rod Boots - keep loosing them. Only one side, one end.

[taylorRichie]

So I keep loosing tie rod boots every time I go out.

I've lost 1 Black Urethane boot, one Rubber Boot, and now a Red Urethane boot (energy)

I'm not sure what is making it happen, I don't seem to have any sharp or rough edges.

Any suggestions? I'm tired of replacing them.

Here's an image.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Replace your steering arm or knuckle. Its apparent by the washers on top that the hole was reamed too deep. There just isn't the needed room for a boot to survive IMO.

 

[Herzog]

Replace your steering arm or knuckle. Its apparent by the washers on top that the hole was reamed too deep. There just isn't the needed room for a boot to survive IMO.

I agree, either that or that is the wrong tie-rod end.

 

[Kiel]

I agree, either that or that is the wrong tie-rod end.

It sorta of looks pretty small compared to the knuckle huh? Maybe you could ream it to a one ton tie rod end, then its a win win

 

[taylorRichie]

Thanks for the tips!

These are HD Tie Rod with Moog Problem Solver Rod ends. The other side has no issues, but this side does.

The Tie Rods came from Independent4X.com.

Any suggestions on making these work? Or where I can [locally] get rod ends, and make sure they're the proper size?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Are you running washers on top of both steering arms? I would call the supplier and see what their reasoning is. Long and short you have the wrong tie rod end or your steering arm taper has been compromised.

 

[taylorRichie]

I am using washers on both sides(actually supplied wit the kit)... I'm guessing that the taper has been compromised as you say. It took a pitman arm puller to release the arm last time I replaced it, so it was really able to get wedged in there.

Any corrective measures short of replacing the steering arm taper you'd suggest?

Thanks for the help!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

There are companies that do or could make you some "inserts", basically moving the taper down in the steering arm so that the TRE doesn't have to seat so far beyond its design. There is no reason you should have to stack washers just to get your castle nut to function as designed, and its likely not just for the cotter pin but because the castle nut will bottom out on the shank before it begins to seat the TRE.

The other option was mentioned above, bump up to the next TRE size and have your steering arms reamed accordingly. All this assuming you have enough material and you'll likely need a new tie rod tube cut and tapped.