Toyota Toyotas Maiden Voyage.

[chase3194]

A couple of friends and I went out the the snakes yesterday and had a blast but I was running into a couple of problems with my truck that need addressing. I have done everything on my own at this point and I dont know where to go. I have a 1993 toyota pickup with a22re and a dana 44 and dana 60 with 37s stock transfer case, I have a VERY hard time stopping. i have custom brake lines all the way around as well as the 1 ton master cylinder. I have bled and bled and bled the brakes but it seems that i just cant get them to bite. Also I was having issues when the truck would be going up a steep incline it would almost seem to bog out and lose power. I dont know how to fix this either cause I have just been learning as i go with the mechanical side of things. I am installing my shocks this week...... If anyone can please help me I would love to be able to get this figured out so that I can get back out there and get some more time behind the wheel before I have to leave this summer I live in utah county too. here is a couple photos from the trip

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[sixstringsteve]

What gears are in the axles? Put some 4.7s on the tcase (or duals) and youll be able to crawl as slow as you want without bogging.

Regarding the brakes, do you still have the proportioning valve plumbed in? Are you noticing braking problems at High speeds or low speeds?

 

[Kevin B.]

Nice truck. Automatic or manual? I've got 5.29s and 33s and I still had trouble idling over stuff when I took it out to snakes. The same combo was great with my old automatic, but it might be a different story with your 37s. You're going to want 5.29s and at least a 4.7 transfer case (just put mine in!). Or a Vortex swap.

Is the brake pedal too stiff? Too soggy? Sinks to the floor? I'm no brake expert, but I think your system needs to be balanced. If you're running the bigger GM master cylinder but the stock calipers and drums, that could be causing trouble. Consider adding the larger calipers from the V6 Toyota up front, that'll soak up a little more of that master cylinder. If you don't already have a dual diaphragm booster, that might help too. Or it might hurt. Do a little research, but I'd recommend making sure your brake mods are comprehensive instead of just throwing bigger parts at it.

 

[chase3194]

I have 4.88s. I am going to do duals I have a second transfer case I just need 600 bucks for the adapter and skid plate from lowrangeoffroad. You know where the bypass is the the left of Wayne's world? I was going up that and the truck bogged out about half way up and I slid back down. At one point I lost all brakes going down that hill it was so SCARY. The brakes they don't stop at High speeds or low they just roll to a stop. Are you talking about the stupid lspv valve? That's gone. I did what a couple guys on pirate have done and eliminated it completely.

 

[Cascadia]

That bypass to the left of WW isn't a bypass. It has always been closed and off limits, just FYI.

 

[chase3194]

Nice truck. Automatic or manual? I've got 5.29s and 33s and I still had trouble idling over stuff when I took it out to snakes. The same combo was great with my old automatic, but it might be a different story with your 37s. You're going to want 5.29s and at least a 4.7 transfer case (just put mine in!). Or a Vortex swap.

Is the brake pedal too stiff? Too soggy? Sinks to the floor? I'm no brake expert, but I think your system needs to be balanced. If you're running the bigger GM master cylinder but the stock calipers and drums, that could be causing trouble. Consider adding the larger calipers from the V6 Toyota up front, that'll soak up a little more of that master cylinder. If you don't already have a dual diaphragm booster, that might help too. Or it might hurt. Do a little research, but I'd recommend making sure your brake mods are comprehensive instead of just throwing bigger parts at it.

I researched what was best from Erik b on pirate 4x4 did and had the best setup I did the same calipers and master cylinder he did and brake lines and he said he could lock them up at any given time. I believe my Toyota already has a dual diaphragm brake booster I thought that after like 91 they came with them. I could be wrong though. It is a manual. The pedal is really squishy unless I pump it then it becomes super stiff.

 

[chase3194]

That bypass to the left of WW isn't a bypass. It has always been closed and off limits, just FYI.

Good to know thanks

 

[Kevin B.]

I researched what was best from Erik b on pirate 4x4 did and had the best setup I did the same calipers and master cylinder he did and brake lines and he said he could lock them up at any given time. I believe my Toyota already has a dual diaphragm brake booster I thought that after like 91 they came with them. I could be wrong though. It is a manual. The pedal is really squishy unless I pump it then it becomes super stiff.

I think all 22RE trucks have the single diaphragm booster, but I could be wrong. But I think you need to bleed the brakes again, every time I've had a squishy pedal that firms up it's been because of air in the lines. If you're sure you're bleeding them completely, maybe you've got a leak somewhere letting air in. Are you losing fluid at all?

 

[sixstringsteve]

Don't Forget the cost of extended/shortened drivelines. With that engine, you'll need lower tcase gearing. No need for a vortec swap, that rig will crawl just fine once it gets done lower gearing.

 

[iamsparticus]

if your petal is squishy then you pump it and it becomes stiff there could be several problems. One problem could be the seals in your master cylinder are going bad and letting pressure by i know you replaced it but it wouldnt be teh first time i have seen a master go bad really fast espcially if your bleeding it alot. Another possible problem could be that you have air trapped at a fitting junction far away from your brakes but closer to master cylinder. I had a simliar problem with a toyota we changed one of the lines on the master cylinder bubble was stuck at a "T" fitting and it behaved exactly like you ahve described. Cracked the fitting air came out and then bleed the brakes worked great after that. The last possiblity is thatyou ahve rubber brake lines that are expanding because they are old or someone pinched them off and broke he hard plastic internal liner. Check that stuff and let me know if you still have a problem

 

[chase3194]

Don't Forget the cost of extended/shortened drivelines. With that engine, you'll need lower tcase gearing. No need for a vortec swap, that rig will crawl just fine once it gets done lower gearing.

Ya that's with the shortened driveline cost from six states I had to get mine cut once already. As for the brakes I know there is a small leak out of the rear passenger but we noticed that after the trip. I am going to look into the dual or single diaphragm booster. The truck did sit for 2 years in a field before I bought it. I'm wondering if maybe somehow some dirt has clogged the diaphragm up?

 

[Rock Taco]

Have you tried a power bleeder?

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0101-P...365953258&sr=8-2&keywords=power+brake+bleeder

 

[chase3194]

if your petal is squishy then you pump it and it becomes stiff there could be several problems. One problem could be the seals in your master cylinder are going bad and letting pressure by i know you replaced it but it wouldnt be teh first time i have seen a master go bad really fast espcially if your bleeding it alot. Another possible problem could be that you have air trapped at a fitting junction far away from your brakes but closer to master cylinder. I had a simliar problem with a toyota we changed one of the lines on the master cylinder bubble was stuck at a "T" fitting and it behaved exactly like you ahve described. Cracked the fitting air came out and then bleed the brakes worked great after that. The last possiblity is thatyou ahve rubber brake lines that are expanding because they are old or someone pinched them off and broke he hard plastic internal liner. Check that stuff and let me know if you still have a problem

I will check that out. I have all brand new brake lines from hose and rubber.


Thanks for all the replies I'm going to look into everything everyone has said and get back to you guys.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Have you tried a power bleeder?

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0101-P...365953258&sr=8-2&keywords=power+brake+bleeder

harbor freight has an even cheaper one that hooks up to an air compressor. I still prefer to do it the old fashioned way with an assistant, but these power bleeders do work.

 

[Kevin B.]

harbor freight has an even cheaper one that hooks up to an air compressor. I still prefer to do it the old fashioned way with an assistant, but these power bleeders do work.

I hate dragging my wife out to pump the brakes every time I need to bleed. I have a spare reservoir cap, do you think it would work to tap an air fitting into it and run straight from the compressor? Or would that be too much PSI? Does the HF model have a pressure regulator?

 

[sixstringsteve]

it doesn't work that way.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

It creates a vacuum at the bleeder end, and draws fluid through the system. That would definitely cause problems to pressurize your MC with air.

 

[chase3194]

I went to the carwash with the truck so i could get the dirt and the mud off and make it so its clean again and when I finished and pulled it back off the trailer at my house the brakes are now working AMAZING. If i slam on the breaks it comes to a screeching hault. I drove it around the neighborhood for 10 minutes looking like an idiot slamming on my brakes every so often but now they are working great. I am a little worried that maybe there was air in the lines or something or some jolt made it so that the brakes work better. but whats stopping them from failing. What does everyone think of converting the rear drum to disc brake? It will cost about 250 with new brake lines in the rear. Does the cost out weigh the benifits?

 

[sixstringsteve]

you have a dana 60 rear axle?

Do you have a working e-brake? If not, I'd get one (t-case flange mounts are cool) just for peace of mind in case you lost your brakes again. Kinda scary that we don't know what fixed it.

 

[chase3194]

you have a dana 60 rear axle?


Do you have a working e-brake? If not, I'd get one (t-case flange mounts are cool) just for peace of mind in case you lost your brakes again. Kinda scary that we don't know what fixed it.

Ya I do have the dana 60. I know there is an Cadillac el dorado that has the same size caliper as a dana 44 so I am wondering if there would be a way for me to make that cable setup work on the Toyota or if I need to save up for that t case brake. This sport is not cheap at all haha

I have been driving around for the last little bit just making sure and its weird that the brakes are working so good.