Toyota's thread

[YOUKNOW]

I have not seen a dedicated Toyota thread. Maybe we can have one that shows others simple DIY projects. I.e. easiest way to change oil or change Differential fluids, or even what oils are best. Just a thought. If there is interest let me know.

 

[sawtooth4x4]

i'm on my second Toyota. In my 85 i just ran conventional oils, except in the transmission, transfer case and diffs. I ran cheap synthetic oils because it seemed to work better in sub zero Wyoming weather back then. nothing fancy. it had a 5mge. Stupid simple to work on. I still wish I had kept it 8 years ago. but having two kids and a wife at the time made it too small. and now with a 3rd kid, impossible.

old 1985 yota, custom springs, 5MGE swap, 33" tires, 1" homemade body lift to clear the engine swap, custom front cross-member, engine lift, transmission lift, transfer case tuck. cheapo shocks, marlin crawler HD clutch, 4.10's, Lincoln locked,flatbed, armor and Tacoma grill.



I now have a 2007 Sequoia. While its just a family hauler now, and I've only had it two months. I just stuck a leveling kit on it and its running 265/75/16's on it. it'll be a light duty back country cruiser as soon as i escape ND. I just switched it over to synthetic oil. It seems to idle smoother and quieter. Plans are to change out the diff's and transfer case to synthetic and maybe the transmission.

I just did a timing belt on my Sequoia. I took me about 4 hours total. i skipped doing the water pump, the belt that was in there was not very old. The previous owners shop didn't leave any marks that the belt had been done. I didn't drain the coolant. I removed a little of the coolant from the radiator. Just below the upper radiator hose. Then i hosed a hose pliers to plug off the upper hose. And took everything apart.

One secret i figured out is to align everything on the VVTI engine to top dead center. then rotate the crank back about 50 degrees. this will keep your cams from jumping when you try to install the belt.

When you do the timing belt, purchase one with all new idlers and a new tensioner. it makes putting everything back together much quicker and easier.

New yota

 

[Kevin B.]

I'm running the Redline MT90 in my transmission, it definitely made a difference over the GL5 conventional I was using before.

 

[hoosier]

I don't know how old you want to go but deleting your down hill assist is a huge help on first gens. (LSPV) all you have to do is go onto your passenger side wheel well, find the brake like T and run a plug in the side to your lspv. Is easy i will get pics

 

[sawtooth4x4]

isn't that Load Sensing Proportioning Valve? I removed mine on my 85 Yota. I couldn't really tell a difference.

 

[hoosier]

Yours most likely we not working then

 

[YOUKNOW]

I have 180,000+ miles on my 2004 Tacoma, I changed the oil and used this oil, have any of you guys used this stuff? What is good to use for the cold/does it matter? Also I changed the plugs to NGK's, I think it is what was used when the truck was stock? What have you guys used to see better power or better mileage?

 

[sabatoa1]

Multiple Yota's

The first Toyota I had was a 90' 4runner SAS, 7MGE, Dual t-cases, e-locker, and 35" BFG's. I did drive it back and forth to work and to the trail, but it was pretty much a full bodied crawler. I did not put any special oils in it because they were changed to frequently due to braking shit.

[/URL][/IMG] The second Toyota I still have and it is my buggy that I built out of a 84' 4runner 22R on propane, 22ret flywheel and rock crawling clutch, Dual t-cases, 37" creepy crawlers, and more... I have changed the oil over to high mileage engine oil because it has 320,000 miles on the dash I do not think it is on its original engine though but not sure. I am running cheap gear oil in everything and have never had any issues.

[/URL][/IMG] My 98' 4runner is just a stock one with high mileage engine oil 285,000 miles, and haven't changed the ATF or gear oil in the axles. I will change them out to synthetic when they need to be changed.

[/URL][/IMG] I have done the LSPV elimination on both my crawlers, and both seem to have better brakes after eliminating all the brake lines. I have learned that you can take a Jeep CJ7 engine mount slot the holes a little bit and they fit right in. They are stronger than the Toyota Mounts and are way stiffer. I am not a big fan of paying $100 for after market mounts that create vibration because of how stiff they are. The CJ7 mount is $7 at AutoZone with a lifetime warranty. FJ60 brake rotor conversion with IFS calipers, great mod that will not break the bank. Taking a rear brake line and adding them to a front is a cheap way to do extended brake lines. I am sure I have done more DIY things to my vehicles just cant think of anymore right now.