TTB 50 on half ton bronco
- Thread starter Darwin
- Start date
420willys
Registered User
- Location
- holland mass yes its the east coast
i think it would beef up the front of that bronco, i have always thought why could'nt you take some steel plate and trace out the bottom ( or top ) and then weld the two independent side's togehter using the plates. the biggest down fall of the TTB design is if the center bolt brakes the hole axle drops and brakes everything in its path.
i had an 89 F-250 plow truck and i always wanted to take and weld the two halves together, it sucked when you rasied up the blade and your front end drops, bolth tires look like there out of line. i think even if you put the F-250 front end in there i would plate it or at least get a new center bolt and replace the center U-joint, another PIA design by ford, jason.
i had an 89 F-250 plow truck and i always wanted to take and weld the two halves together, it sucked when you rasied up the blade and your front end drops, bolth tires look like there out of line. i think even if you put the F-250 front end in there i would plate it or at least get a new center bolt and replace the center U-joint, another PIA design by ford, jason.
ut4x4Bronco
BigHunkenBronco
- Location
- Sahuarita AZ
My personal experience with this is that the weak points for the TTB are the lift drop brackets and the cross memember where these drop brackets bolt onto. I wheeled a TTB in Arizona for about 5 years, also did moab 2-3 times in that time frame. When I removed the TTB to put a 1978 Dana 44 on the Bronco I found that the cross member was cracking where the drop brackets bolt on. I also cracked a drop bracket in the same time frame (BDS warranty replaced it for free) and developed a crack in a TTB I-beam. The Dana 44 TTB with-stood plenty of punishment, it was all the stuff around the TTB the was falling apart.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
why not just get a straight axle and forget about welding, cutting, fitting or any of that??? you'll still be stuck with extra joints if you use TTB at all.
not to get all anti-Ford, but I think TTB is just not the best offroad solution... but then, I dont' think that's what they designed it for either... I still remember the 1980 catalog saying how smooth it was gonna be on the road.
not to get all anti-Ford, but I think TTB is just not the best offroad solution... but then, I dont' think that's what they designed it for either... I still remember the 1980 catalog saying how smooth it was gonna be on the road.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
cool...
I"m not sure how much of an upgrade a Fiddy is over the Foedy Foe anyway. All 4x4's are gangsta now, btw.
I"m not sure how much of an upgrade a Fiddy is over the Foedy Foe anyway. All 4x4's are gangsta now, btw.
ut4x4Bronco
BigHunkenBronco
- Location
- Sahuarita AZ
My opinion is if want to save some bucks then stop wheeling. I put over 5K into my Bronco front end last year for a 1978 Dana 44 that had a bad axle housing. The axle tube was loose. This year I dumped over 11k for new axles, custom built Dana 60's front and rear.
ut4x4Bronco
BigHunkenBronco
- Location
- Sahuarita AZ
I am sorry I wrote the My opinion piece. For many years I wheeled a TTB and did the 4-wheeling on the cheap. It can be done. I did Moab, Deadwood North Dakota, Mesa, Tucson, Florence and Pantagonia Arizona. I can just aford to dump big bucks into the Bronco now.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
just out of curiousity,HOW do you spend over $5k on a Dana 44???
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
and just to let you know the 50 is really a 44 in disguise.i wouldn't waste the time to put TTb back in i would do a solid axle.
its easy enough to find a F100,150,or Bronco 44 and for cheap.as far as spending 5 grand on a 44 its doable.by the time you figure :
locker
alloys
gears
bearing
hubs
seals
yoke
joints
diff cover
it adds up. granted if you know you wheel hard then by all means build a 60 but if you know you can be lite on the throttle when needed then do a 44 .
its easy enough to find a F100,150,or Bronco 44 and for cheap.as far as spending 5 grand on a 44 its doable.by the time you figure :
locker
alloys
gears
bearing
hubs
seals
yoke
joints
diff cover
it adds up. granted if you know you wheel hard then by all means build a 60 but if you know you can be lite on the throttle when needed then do a 44 .
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
The shafts on the 50 are the same diameter as a 44. The only gain in strength you will see is u-joint size and bearing/spindle/brakes/hubs.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
No. Same as D44xj_punk said:
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
xj_punk said:i fixed it for you
it is possible if you buy ridiculously overpriced parts and have someone else do all the work for you
sorry not all of us know how to build axles .i have expience but no tools to do it myself so yes i have to pay somebody else to do it.uhm as for it being retarded not everybody wants to wait to find a 60 or deal with the price of a 60 when they finially find it
Badger said:
i wasn't meaning to call anyone out or actually insult anybody, though i understand that is how it sounds. i don't build axles either, but i got my front and rear 44's built for about 1000-1200 bucks. that is replacing everything except the housing itself.
building a 60 is expensive, about 3000 bucks if you include purchase price... but it is a lot better investment to spend 3k on a 60 than 1k on a 44 imo.
not everyone needs the most built 60 either, a lot of people just run a low pinion with stock shafts and joints.
if my 44s were any more expensive than they are i would have gone 60.
sorry if i am being a dick (it happens)
p.s 60s are everywhere!!!