• DCRC 2024

Ultimate Alaskan Camper Trailer Build

Wicked Monkey

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
I'm getting old and lazy. Im tired of hard grounds, setting up camp, unpredictable weather and tired of all the time spent prepping, loading and unloading gear. There has got to be a better solution that will not break the bank! So after much research, here's what I came up with...

After seeing this draw up and a few others builds...
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...It got me thinking!

Found me a m101a2 military trailer I picked up from a local sale for $600. The guy wanted $1000 but talked him down:)

Features:
Hand brakes
D-Ring tow points and D-Rings
8 lug bolt pattern for tires/rims
Heavy duty construction
Hooks wielded to the sides and front
Many other goodies...
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I picked up this 1970 Alaskan pop up camper threw a local sale for $1000 cash. The seller wanted $1500 but after flapping 10x $100 bills he gave in:)*
The camper is in great shape for being as old as it is.

Features:
30 Gal water tank
3 burner stove
Sink with hand pump and electric pump fasets
2 1/2 gal propane tank
Fridge/Freezer
Table that sits 4 and converts into a bed that sleeps 2
Port-o-potty
Lots of cabinets
Manual Hydraulic jack that lifts the roof
Many other goodies...
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I measured the camper and trailer to see if they would marry. Nope!! Lol!
My bro had a grinder and sawzall, so off to his pad! I took off 2" of metal from each wheel well. Then an additional bit for the extending part on the camper.
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The front bottom part of the camper had a 4" lip overhang that prevented the camper from fitting onto the trailer. I hacked it off:)
*
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Oh yea not to forget the set of 4x 35/12.5/R16.5 BFG A/T tires and 16.5 alum rims I scored for only $100 on Ksl.com
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Now for the marriage.
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Wicked Monkey

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
She fit really good! Looks great too! On a bad note, gonna have to get new sheet metal wielded on and fill the 1 1/2" gap between camper and trailer rails.
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I took her out on the interstate and she trailed smoothly like a caddy. I'm very pleased:)
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Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Not too bad. You'll need to add some stabilizer jacks at each corner so you can unhook it and still use it.
 
Wicked Monkey

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
Caleb said:
Not too bad. You'll need to add some stabilizer jacks at each corner so you can unhook it and still use it.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Oh I forgot to mention that the M101a2 comes stock with a rear and front jack. I just hope they won't get in the way when 4x4ing. Here's a pic with the rear jack in the UP position.
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Wicked Monkey

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
OK! After driving around with the trailer/camper, ive decided the m101a2 trailer idea was not so good. Why?
1. It made the campers center of gravity too high.
2. Too wide!
3. Too heavy!! The trailer empty, 1280 lbs! Not including camper.

So as of right now... The M101a2 trailer is not going to be used for this build. :-( I am going to design and build a custom light weight trailer for the camper. Right now this project is on standby. Ill keep updates posted when i make this happen.

Does anyone have any ideas on building a light weight trailer?
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
If you're still planning to use that camper, then the lighter the trailer, the higher your center of gravity will be. As long as you don't intend to run tough trails with it and use it more like a base camp, then the weight isn't a bad thing.
 
Wicked Monkey

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
Caleb said:
If you're still planning to use that camper, then the lighter the trailer, the higher your center of gravity will be. As long as you don't intend to run tough trails with it and use it more like a base camp, then the weight isn't a bad thing.
Click to expand...

I for sure want to continue using the camper. But think a lighter and more lower profile trailer is needed. Ill experiment with smaller tires and a longer drop hitch. Ill also put on some shocks on the m101a2. I think ill tinker a little bit first! Hmm...
 
Badger

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
If you still have to enclosing the wheel wells why not just make the entire well larger and move it up. You could then possibly put a longer leaf spring on it allowing the chassis to sit lower to the ground with out having to sacrifice tire size. The longer leaf would also allow for a bit better flex before body roll would start. But I would think you would have to run shocks if you did that.
 
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S

Stacey

Active Member
Location
St. George
The offroad trailer i built out of a Jeepster with the RTT felt very top heavy until installing some high quality shocks on it. This simple mod made all the difference. I understand the desire to reduce the weight, dropping just a few hundred pounds makes a big difference in how it pulls. What are you using to tow it with?
 
Wicked Monkey

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
Badger said:
If you still have to enclosing the wheel wells why not just make the entire well larger and move it up. You could then possibly put a longer leaf spring on it allowing the chassis to sit lower to the ground with out having to sacrifice tire size. The longer leaf would also allow for a bit better flex before body roll would start. But I would think you would have to run shocks if you did that.
Click to expand...
Thats a good idea! Ill keep this in mind:)
Stacey said:
The offroad trailer i built out of a Jeepster with the RTT felt very top heavy until installing some high quality shocks on it. This simple mod made all the difference. I understand the desire to reduce the weight, dropping just a few hundred pounds makes a big difference in how it pulls. What are you using to tow it with?
Click to expand...
Yea i think ill give the shocks a shot. See how that works. But its still too dang heavy for the trails! Im currently using my 3/4 ton truck to pull it.
Stacey said:
BTW, love the m101 and camper look.
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Thanks! Yea it sure looks cool! Lol!
 
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