when flat towing via tow bars, must the tow bars be parallel to the ground?

[TurboMinivan]

Some family members have one of those big ass RVs the size of a city bus. They also have a KJ Liberty which they flat tow behind it. The tow bar brace sits on the KJ such that the tow bars are perfectly parallel to the ground when it is hooked up and being towed.

Recently they traded in that RV for a newer one which is at least as big. The newer one's hitch receiver sits 10" higher off the ground than their former RV, and that is causing grief for them--they don't want to use a 10" drop hitch, and they don't want the tow bars to be at such a steep angle. They are so against it, in fact, that they have contacted me to investigate trading in the KJ for a different Jeep where the tow bars could mount to a higher point than their current Jeep. Really.

All my towing has been with a trailer, so I'm kinda new to the tow bar/flat towing thing. Is it really critical for the tow bars to be parallel to the ground?

NOT their old setup, but very similar to this:

 

[TJDukit]

I remember reading before I got a tow bar for my Bronco II..cough, cough...that it was recommended to have the tow bar as level as possible. It made sense because if the bar dipped down toward the tow vehicle the towed vehicle would try to push over the top of the bar under heavy braking and the opposite would apply if the bar angled up towards the tow vehicle the towed vehicle would try to push under the bar.

 

[TJDukit]

Not sure if its 100% true but it makes sense in my head and there is a lot going on in my head that doesn't make sense so when something does make sense I listen.

 

[flexyfool]

Use a 5" drop and call it good. The tow bar angle will not cause the back of such a large RV to ride up under braking. It's more of an issue if towing with an unloaded pickup. I liked to put some down angle into the bar when I flat towed with a pickup.

 

[N-Smooth]

Pretty sure if it was a broncoII (like Brian's) it wouldn't matter because they're better than jeeps, even at being towed.

I agree with the above- drop hitches exist for a reason so they should at least meet somewhere in the middle. Is it lame to throw a huge drop hitch on there? Yes. Worth it? Definitely.

 

[TJDukit]

Pretty sure if it was a broncoII (like Brian's) it wouldn't matter because they're better than jeeps, even at being towed.

I agree with the above- drop hitches exist for a reason so they should at least meet somewhere in the middle. Is it lame to throw a huge drop hitch on there? Yes. Worth it? Definitely.

Hey...we all know BII's are....ah nevermind.

 

[skiboarder]

Hey...we all know BII's are....ah nevermind.

yea you got in trouble for that last time. ;-)

 

[1993yj]

When I used to flat tow my jeep I would use a 8" drop hitch, but flipped, to make the bars as level as possible. Why are they so against a drop hitch? Seems like using one would be the ideal setup here.

 

[LT.]

I remember reading before I got a tow bar for my Bronco II..cough, cough...that it was recommended to have the tow bar as level as possible. It made sense because if the bar dipped down toward the tow vehicle the towed vehicle would try to push over the top of the bar under heavy braking and the opposite would apply if the bar angled up towards the tow vehicle the towed vehicle would try to push under the bar.

This is exactly correct. The motor home may not get pushed around with the Liberty but, if the road conditions are questionable I would not want the Liberty to have any lift or dive. Just buy the hitch and be safe. Not worth pushing ones luck just because of a drop hitch.

LT.

 

[UNSTUCK]

My thinking is that the ball coupler is only good for so much angle before it will bind. With the long overhang of the RV as it goes over a bumb or a dip in the road, you could bind up the coupler and maybe even brake it off. So just like putting our suspension links in a neutral position doing the same here will give you the most "flex".

 

[TurboMinivan]

My thinking is that the ball coupler is only good for so much angle before it will bind.

So just like putting our suspension links in a neutral position doing the same here will give you the most "flex".

Okay, that makes sense.

 

[Tee]

It is better to have the ball end slightly higher if you can't get it level. Because when the tow vehicle brakes, the nose dives and the rear raises, however the towed vehicle nose will rise. If the ball end is lower, when the towed vehicle nose rises it can overcome the tow bar and end up in the back of the towing vehicle.

Hope that makes sense?

 

[1993yj]

It is better to have the ball end slightly higher if you can't get it level. Because when the tow vehicle brakes, the nose dives and the rear raises, however the towed vehicle nose will rise. If the ball end is lower, when the towed vehicle nose rises it can overcome the tow bar and end up in the back of the towing vehicle.

Hope that makes sense?

I think you are over thinking it. Get it close and you will be fine.

 

[UFAB]

Just think when it's at an angle, what forces would be applied?

Forces laterally are only used, any vertical will put a load on the natural steering path.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/vehicle-towing/car/car-towing-options3.htm

 

[flexyfool]

I think you are over thinking it. Get it close and you will be fine.

X2

But if your family member is still worried, a by-wire or by-RF electric braking system can be plumbed into the brake lines of the towed vehicle. Probably about $1000 for the system.

 

[Caleb]

X2

But if your family member is still worried, a by-wire or by-RF electric braking system can be plumbed into the brake lines of the towed vehicle. Probably about $1000 for the system.

This. There's some pretty crazy braking systems that can be setup for the towed vehicle.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

I once flat towed a Miata behind my Jeep to Maine and back, there was a pretty good drop between hitch ball and the Miata to say the least, over 4600 miles without a hiccup using just the Jeep's brakes.