• DCRC 2024

yamaha IT200

R

rholbrook

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville, Ut
anderson750 said:
The carbs are pretty basic. A line feeding fuel into the carb and 3-4 vents/overflow tubes. If they are smaller (1/8") attachments on the carb, they are vents or overflow.

Here are some carb pics I found by Googling.


http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/1306141/

http://www.sudco.com/mikuni2.html
Click to expand...

Very simple carbs and man does this bring back memories. My neighbor had one when I was 13 or 14(30+ years ago) and he would let me ride it. It sure ripped back then. I can still remember the sound of the bike and the hollow sound the carborater made as it sucked in air and then it would hit the powerband. I loved those bikes.

Have fun with it. As far a a clutch cable goes, there is a family owned bike shop in front of Harbour Freight. I beleive you can call them and have them either get you one or make one. Give them a shot.
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
IT's are awesome bikes. My friend and his family have like 8 of them along with a few two stroke WR's. The places these bikes can go is unbelievable.

There are three hoses that belong on the carb. Two are the upper vent hoses and the other is the overflow for the floatbowl on the very bottom of the carb. Like stated above just find some new hose (1/8" I think) and run the three together and guide them behind the motor and in front of the swing arm.

I would HIGHLY recommend changing the transmission oil if you have not done so yet. Use Honda proline 80w-85 transmission oil or similar that is designed for transmissions not to be confused with 80-90 Hypoid gear lube for differentials. Being air cooled all the heat from the motor can transfer right to the oil in the transmission. The only way to kill an IT that I've seen so far is by neglecting the gear oil.

You only need to buy a quart. Just drain the old out and add the recommended amount (it will probably have an amount stamped on the engine case). Also be very careful to not over tighten the drain bolt--it will strip out the engine case :ugh:
 
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R

rholbrook

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville, Ut
Very good advice from ROTBOX. If you have the carb out, you might as well pull the float off and take a look at it if its been sitting long. This a good time to clean the carb if it has been sitting. You will have to be careful with the gasket on the bowl because it can fall apart on you or stick and get pulled apart when you seperate the bowl from the carb. You will have to unscrew the top so the slide comes out. Look at the needle while its out. What your looking for is a ring on the needle where in goes into the seat. If it has a ring, I would replace both the needle and seat. Make sure if you remove the needle that you see where the clip is. If the bowl has crud in it, pull the jets out and run a sewing needle in the holes to help clean them. You won't have to mess with any airscrews so don't go turning them.
 
_Auzzy_

_Auzzy_

Current Rig: 12W Boots
Location
Richfield Utah
i had a IT175!! 86 i think or 84 can't remember but it was awesome!! til i blew a hole in the right side crankcase from running the wrong oil. but that thing got up and scooted, kept up with my buddys cr125 like it was nothing even in the dunes, or at least til it over heated. these bikes are way easy to work on to! all i did was go to bikebandit.com and look over all the parts diagrams and went through everything then replaced what was wrong.
 
krany

krany

kranberry
Location
saratoga springs
sound like i stumbled apon a pretty good bike. i went to work on it last night got all the tubes where i thought they should be, 3 vent tubes ran down to the swingarm. went to start it and i couldnt get it started for a second, that was before i fixed the fuel regulator it was stuck in the reserve mode and added the hoses, iam not sure what the issue is now. its not starting no matter how hard i try to kick start it, any idea's?
 
J

Jedisdead

Jed
Location
Wyoming
I guy at work brought is cr in that had been sitting for ten years wouldn't start we ended up pulling the carb and cleaning it. It wasn't real dirty but all the gas had evaporated and left it full of oil. It started like on the third kick after that. Something to try if you have not already done so.
 
anderson750

anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
If you have not already, I would completeyly go through the carb. you may have a plugged jet. If there is spark, then the problem has to be fuel related.
 
krany

krany

kranberry
Location
saratoga springs
just got back from getting it started, all it took was pushing a little lever on the carb down till it clicked into position and it fired right up, i was amazing to hear it actually running. i did however run into another problem, the idle was really high and wasn't very smooth. it went high to low, high to low and at times it got extremely high so i just shut it off, could this be an issue somewhere or just a side effect from sitting as long as i think it has, last it was registered was in 06....
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Your carb likely needs to be completely gone through. Gas evaporates and leaves oil (2T oil) residue behind and it often leaves jets and orifices plugged up.

Again I would change the oil, clean the carb and also service the air filter before starting it again. Make sure and check that the carb slide tops out and bottoms out when you twist the throttle from closed to wide open. You can hear the slide top out and bottom out when you twist it. Sometimes the throttle cable can bind and not seat all the way and cause the engine to run erratically. This could very well be the case :-\
 
krany

krany

kranberry
Location
saratoga springs
Rot Box said:
Your carb likely needs to be completely gone through. Gas evaporates and leaves oil (2T oil) residue behind and it often leaves jets and orifices plugged up.

Again I would change the oil, clean the carb and also service the air filter before starting it again. Make sure and check that the carb slide tops out and bottoms out when you twist the throttle from closed to wide open. You can hear the slide top out and bottom out when you twist it. Sometimes the throttle cable can bind and not seat all the way and cause the engine to run erratically. This could very well be the case :-\
Click to expand...
cleaned and went threw the carb, wasnt much gunk in there except for the bottom and on the floats. iam in the process of getting the oil and changing it, air filter is newish. and i can hear/see the slide bottoming and topping out when i twist the throttle and its smooth with no binding or anything.
i did get it started long enough to ride it around my yard for a minute:rofl: poor grass has a chunk here and there missing from the paddle tire:rofl: it pulled really strong during that time, had enough power to pop a small wheelie, thats a decent sign i guess.
 
_Auzzy_

_Auzzy_

Current Rig: 12W Boots
Location
Richfield Utah
pull the petcock out of the tank and clean it. when i got mine it had crap crusted around the filter, take a tooth brush and alot of carb cleaner to it. pull the o-ring around the petcock before you clean it though so it doesnt dry and crack. then new lines to the carb and you will be set!
 
krany

krany

kranberry
Location
saratoga springs
YJ_Auzzy said:
pull the petcock out of the tank and clean it. when i got mine it had crap crusted around the filter, take a tooth brush and alot of carb cleaner to it. pull the o-ring around the petcock before you clean it though so it doesnt dry and crack. then new lines to the carb and you will be set!
Click to expand...
the 'petcock' would be the fuel adjuster switch or something else?
 
C

cowmilker

SUPER CHEESY
Location
Stansbury Park UT.
Nice bike. I have an '85 IT 200 in my garage. I started looking at your pictures and it looks like you have an IT 175. The 200's had rectangle headlights,the one in your pic has a round headlight. One of your pic's has a vin/serial # starting with 5X8 and according to my manual (clymer #m414 pg.276) vin 5X8-0??????? is either an IT175J, or IT175k. I think your year should be '82 or '83 (although my manual doesn't say what year specifically, this info is in the "1981 and later" supplement at the end of the book). Rectangle headlight IT200's came out in "84, and I think the '81's were white (therefore the one pictured is 82-83). You can look at the base of the cylinder, just below the cooling fins to be sure of the cc's.
My manual says to run pre-mix at 20:1. (24:1 with "yamalube R")

Let me know if you need to know anything else from the manual, I could even get you some photocopies from this manual if you want (I don't let people "borrow" stuff from me, sorry).
 
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