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Looks like it was the rear hatch/window ajar switch. Stayed at 11.95 all week. Should be up above 12 now that I have been driving it some. Thanks everyone!

I have a buddy looking for a helmet with air and comm setup that would fit a 7 1/4" hat size (med or lrg) and an XL or XXL fire suit, head/neck sock and gloves. Loaners, used or very cheap preferred as it might be a one-time use for this years's KOH LCQ. Conact Jeremy at 801-690-4067, text...

This one unplugged on the hump at the top of the picture??

What is the little 2" x 2" black box on the hump under the rear seat?

Doesn't look like I have an amp under the seat. So I disconnected the two rear door ajar switches for the hatch and window. Battery volt reading over last three days sitting was: 12.04, 11.94, 11.97, 11.96. I'll keep checking.

DaveB, do you think I should still check the diodes?

Cool that one will be checked first, them to the rear hatch switch. I think the BCM is up on the firewall behind the steering wheel...

Does anyone have a diagram of the location for the BCM and radio amp in a 98 ZJ?

That's plenty good info for the rear glass switch, thanks. Anyone else have an idea on what is going on if the switch doesn't work out?

Where does the time go?!?!?!?! Okay, so I finally pulled Fuze#7 and left the ZJ sitting for over a week. Low and behold there was no battery drainage, and to my surprise it starts and drives fine without it. Only missing instrument cluster, but I drove for so many years in other vehicles with no...

Thanks everyone for the inputs. I will attempt some additional diagnosing tonight.

DaveB, what is the best way for me to check the diodes at home with meter? If that doesn't work I will borrow your modules if they will work all right

So I have a good riddle for those that are electronics savvy. I have a 1998 Grand Laredo, 4.0, 4wd that keeps draining the battery (just put in new one) after a couple of days sitting. Repair shop traced the problem to 180 MA draw to fuze#7, which lead them to believe it was possibly the BCM...

For $400 I will probably make my own. I want flares so I don't get inner fender rub, and I want to remain street-legal. Of course the fender-well cutting I want to do is going to require cutting into the stock bumpers, so those probably won't stay on too well afterwards. We'll see what...

I was thinking a 33", but might as well do the one I want and go 35". Probably BFG KM2's...or maybe finally try some Pitbulls. I want to cut out as much as possible, to lift as little as needed. Just saw these steel XRC fender flares, and they look like they might actually be proportionate...

I definately don't want the Iceland ones, IMO they are butt ugly. I'll keep looking cause paying 400-500 bucks for the BW ones is more than I want to pay. Maybe I will build some tube ones to kill time, and to allow me to cut out as much fender as I want...

I heard there are some pocket-style fender flares out there for Grand's that are similar to the Bushwacker Cut-Out flares, but half the price. Anyone on here know which ones I am looking for? Bud

I might want to go too!

Tube Toy, Did you try Brandon?

Brandon at Sky's Extreme in Clearfield has some that he isn't going to use. I think he has a two seater and a single seater chassis already done. I think he has an all Stainless steel one too! 801-825-6577, tell him Bud sent you!