35s on Dana 44s

[Margarita]

I am putting 35 MTRs on a 2004 Rubicon. I have read several articles that recommend upgrading the components that can fail under the additional stress of the larger diameter tires. These components include axles, drive shafts, and brakes. In addition, several of the authors recommend using lower gearing in the differentials, i.e. 5.13 or 5.38. Are these upgrades necessary? Can the stock Dana 44s on the Rubicon handle the additional stress of the 35s?

 

[Big Daddy C.]

I am putting 35 MTRs on a 2004 Rubicon. I have read several articles that recommend upgrading the components that can fail under the additional stress of the larger diameter tires. These components include axles, drive shafts, and brakes. In addition, several of the authors recommend using lower gearing in the differentials, i.e. 5.13 or 5.38. Are these upgrades necessary? Can the stock Dana 44s on the Rubicon handle the additional stress of the 35s?

My front axle is a 44 stock shafts but 5.38 yukon R&P no problems yet with 38" tires but the front does not usually have the problems it will usaully be the rear. but 35" MTRs should be fine on those axels if you remember they are stock when you wheel (don't beat on them). but if something breaks then up-grade it to bigger and better components at that time, and save your money for now. i would consider your gearing for now though and make sure your lower than 4.56 (i think even 4.10 would be to high)

 

[Kiel]

You need to talk to wayne, he didn't really run into any problems on his rubicon with 35's until he switched to 37's then he broke everything, ujoints, shafts, yokes, drivelines, lockers

 

[Bone Down]

I wish one of the axle guru's would confirm what I had read, think it was in a JP magazine, that not all 44's are created equal and that the rubicon 44's are not truely as strong as some of the older 44's out there.

Something about the axle tubes not being much stronger than a 30.

Anyone know if this is true or not?

I ask because the rubi 44's go for big bucks on ebay... I have seen empty housings for sale for around $800 or better in some cases.

 

[chadschoon]

the rubicon 44 is not like the others. I run 35's on a 44 and 30 and never had a problem knock on wood, and oh ya I dont usually drive like its a 44 either

 

[waynehartwig]

You need to talk to wayne, he didn't really run into any problems on his rubicon with 35's until he switched to 37's then he broke everything, ujoints, shafts, yokes, drivelines, lockers

I was just thinking this same exact thing when I started reading the thread...

 

[waynehartwig]

I am putting 35 MTRs on a 2004 Rubicon. I have read several articles that recommend upgrading the components that can fail under the additional stress of the larger diameter tires. These components include axles, drive shafts, and brakes. In addition, several of the authors recommend using lower gearing in the differentials, i.e. 5.13 or 5.38. Are these upgrades necessary? Can the stock Dana 44s on the Rubicon handle the additional stress of the 35s?

Put the tires on and enjoy. I in no way baby my 04 Rubicon and I put over 40k trail miles on 35's with stock drivetrain. It wasn't until I went to 37's that I started breaking all kinds of things - rear axles, locker, front axles, u joints, etc. Then when you break something, upgrade it to molly. Alloy USA has the best axles for a TJ right now, IMO. Superior is comparible, but a WHOLE lot more expensive! Yukon doesn't really make any molly shafts for TJ D44's.

With the stock locker, you can only go up to 5.13's now. If you want to go up to 5.89's, you will need to change out the carrier for a Detroit, ARB, etc.

Drive shaft should be upgraded because of the lift to a CV style in the rear. The front is ok stock.

As for brakes, yeah, they don't stop on a dime anymore...More like a silver dollar. Not really much you can do about that unless you make some heavy modifications like hydro assist or etc.

 

[waynehartwig]

I wish one of the axle guru's would confirm what I had read, think it was in a JP magazine, that not all 44's are created equal and that the rubicon 44's are not truely as strong as some of the older 44's out there.

Something about the axle tubes not being much stronger than a 30.

Anyone know if this is true or not?

I ask because the rubi 44's go for big bucks on ebay... I have seen empty housings for sale for around $800 or better in some cases.

The Rubicon D44's are true D44's. The rear is a true D44 completely, from disc to disc. The front is only a true D44 from inner knuckle to inner knuckle, and just the housing, not the knuckle itself. They both do have .25" wall axle tubes. In no way are they are D30's like the rumor suggests. The only thing that is D30 is the front inner knuckle out and the stub shaft.

 

[waynehartwig]

You need to talk to wayne, he didn't really run into any problems on his rubicon with 35's until he switched to 37's then he broke everything, ujoints, shafts, yokes, drivelines, lockers

Actually you are wrong.... I never broke one yoke.

 

[DevinB]

The Rubicon D44's are true D44's. The rear is a true D44 completely, from disc to disc. The front is only a true D44 from inner knuckle to inner knuckle, and just the housing, not the knuckle itself. They both do have .25" wall axle tubes. In no way are they are D30's like the rumor suggests. The only thing that is D30 is the front inner knuckle out and the stub shaft.

I thought Rubi D44's had thin tubes. Am I wrong? They sure don't look as beefy as older D44's.

Devin

 

[Caleb]

I thought Rubi D44's had thin tubes. Am I wrong? They sure don't look as beefy as older D44's.

Devin

they are a glorified D30 basically...however the main weak link is upgraded (the ring and pinion) but the tubes are smaller like a D30 and not like a standard D44. IMO, it sounds like you won't be doing a ton of rockcrawling (if any) but rather mostly trails and fire roads...that being the case I say do it for sure. Run it and enjoy it, even if you were going to be doing rockcrawling occasionally I'd still say run it and enjoy. If it was going to be a lot of rockcrawling I'd personally want some alloy shafts and some aftermarket u-joints.

 

[waynehartwig]

I thought Rubi D44's had thin tubes. Am I wrong? They sure don't look as beefy as older D44's.

Devin

How thick are older D44's? Rubicon D44's are what 3"x.025"?

 

[CRAZYCJ8]

Most 3/4 ton 44's are .50 inch thick, thats a 1/2 inch that same as a dana 60. as far as what the thickness on a TJ30/44 not sure.

as far as braking, a 2001 dodge 3500MC will bolt right in, so easy mod..search pirate for details

 

[waynehartwig]

Most 3/4 ton 44's are .50 inch thick, thats a 1/2 inch that same as a dana 60. as far as what the thickness on a TJ30/44 not sure.

as far as braking, a 2001 dodge 3500MC will bolt right in, so easy mod..search pirate for details

That would be thicker... I'm not sure what TJ D30's are to then be able to say the TJ D44 has the same tubes as a TJ D30.

I'm going to have to look into that brake upgrade though....

 

[waynehartwig]

Most 3/4 ton 44's are .50 inch thick, thats a 1/2 inch that same as a dana 60. as far as what the thickness on a TJ30/44 not sure.

as far as braking, a 2001 dodge 3500MC will bolt right in, so easy mod..search pirate for details

I've looked and can't find it. Any ideas where to look?

 

[Margarita]

Thank you for your input.

 

[CRAZYCJ8]

This is from JP magazine on the "ultimate unlimited build up"

Bend-Free Tubes

"Original Wrangler Dana 30 front axlehousings are made from smallish 2 1/2-inch, 0.250-wall tube (A). Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 fronts have the same small tubing as the Dana 30. The optional Dana 44 and Rubicon 44 rear housings have the same tubing as the notorious-for-bending Dana 35. They are made from 2 5/8-inch, 0.250-wall"

so the only real difference from Rubi 44's and stock d30 and rear35 is really the centersections as far as housings...thats sad

 

[Bone Down]

This is from JP magazine on the "ultimate unlimited build up"

Bend-Free Tubes

"Original Wrangler Dana 30 front axlehousings are made from smallish 2 1/2-inch, 0.250-wall tube (A). Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 fronts have the same small tubing as the Dana 30. The optional Dana 44 and Rubicon 44 rear housings have the same tubing as the notorious-for-bending Dana 35. They are made from 2 5/8-inch, 0.250-wall"

so the only real difference from Rubi 44's and stock d30 and rear35 is really the centersections as far as housings...thats sad

that was the one that I read thanks Crazy... I can't find my copy of that issue.

 

[waynehartwig]

This is from JP magazine on the "ultimate unlimited build up"

Bend-Free Tubes

"Original Wrangler Dana 30 front axlehousings are made from smallish 2 1/2-inch, 0.250-wall tube (A). Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 fronts have the same small tubing as the Dana 30. The optional Dana 44 and Rubicon 44 rear housings have the same tubing as the notorious-for-bending Dana 35. They are made from 2 5/8-inch, 0.250-wall"

so the only real difference from Rubi 44's and stock d30 and rear35 is really the centersections as far as housings...thats sad

I'll buy the front being the same as the D30 other than the center section, but I can't believe the rear is smaller.

I have two brand new empty D44 Rubicon housings on order to put in a TJ (Smittybilts show Jeep) to replace his D30/D35. When I get them I'll measure the housings and we (I) can then know for sure. Jeep said I should have them this time next week.

 

[Badger]

yep the Rubi axles are total junk and aren't worth the extra money they charge for them.tubes are thin,the front is a low pinion isn't it(even worse),the knuckles,bearings/hub,shafts are all from a 30 housing which we all now are crap.

not to say you can't get by on them with 35"s but you will have to regear for them.you might want to step up to alloy axles as well.